GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

I've rethought the pump mount and picked up some grommets at Lowes. I bored the holes in the airbox to 1/2" and filed them smooth. Using the rubber/metal bonded washers, I can mount it using the heat sink. I will need to glue a small rubber hose in the groove for the heat sink to keep it off the air box- it does not touch as-is, but it could under vibration/riding.

I still need to test this and see if it will contact the engine under normal riding, at that point I can work on adding clearance to it as suggested.

The mounting concerns are due to this pump being huge. It's 52mm (2") diameter x 8" overall (5" body). In front of the airbox was the best place that came to mind for being able to get to it and plumbing/wiring. As noted earlier, the pump body must be kept isolated electrically from the frame.

[salty_monk]

Presumably this is because you are switching on the -ve side of the pump? Any provision for switching on the +ve side? Perhaps with a relay?

Just a thought...

[GS1000G Shopper]

The problem can be resolved at this point with proper mounting.

The hose I placed under the bracket actually tilted the front up a little, but the front of the heat sink still hit the fuel rail- which grounds via 6mm screws. There is still plenty of room between the top of the heat sink and the hoses from the air box. I need to mark the heat sink to see if it is practical to try and remove material for clearance.

What I tried next was my angle aluminum bracket, the 2" silicone sleeve (cut in half and spaced so the clamps hold it evenly), and held in place with two #40 (too large, but on hand) hose clamps. Lots of clearance all around.

To control the pump with PWM from the + side would require a lot of rewiring. That's something to keep in mind if this should ever be scratch-built again.

[salty_monk]

Not necessarily... Very easy to isolate a relay & switch that on the -ve side allowing your pump to be switch on the +ve side I would think.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Relays do not work well with PWM, as I intended to go that route initially. Research showed the transistor circuit was the best way to go.

The heat sink is too large to clear the rail even with the mounting base cut off, which allows it to be tucked in closer to the air box. I may be able to space it in this manner so the gap where I cut it lines up with the rail, but it looks like the hose clamps may still touch the rail.

I'm going to try it with the pump in the silicone hose sections held up by the hose clamps. I'm looking for a smaller OD heat sink that could be made to work (and could possibly mount between the hose sections), but finding specs on them is not always easy.

EDIT
I forgot that I already looked for these, and found a 2" ID one here for $22:

http://www.partsconnexion.com/ACCESS-62443.html

[GS1000G Shopper]

While I was wiring the coil input, I read about the coil mod here. I checked and had 12.6V at the battery, and only 10.6 at the coil connector. Since the Microsquirt needs to hook up to the + and - coil terminals, I cut off the old plugs and added a 4 pin Weatherpack connector, plus a waterproof relay (McMaster.com) and inline fuse since I had no more room on the fuse panel for another micro relay. After the mod, the voltage drop went from 2 volts to .07 volt.

I also tucked in the other wires not being used. The only connector left is the O2 sensor. I found a site that allows an estimate for the VE table and AFR table based on RPM, horsepower, and torque. Still need to do some research so my initial numbers are as close as possible.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The O2 connector was a bear to assemble. I would recommend a pigtail & crimp/soldering the wires.

Today I hung the exhaust, it was a lot less painful than expected. The O2 sensor looks like it will clear OK.

In looking for stock GS1100G specs for HP & TQ, I found this page, which lists the specs for a 1982 GK as 94 HP @ 8000 RPM and 63.4 foot-pounds 6400 RPM. Should be close enough to get me started with tuning, but I'm not sure the calc works with smaller engines. I hope to get underway with that part of the project this week.

There is a lot to read here:
Microsquirt V3 manual page

[GS1000G Shopper]

I've made a lot of headway this week.

Today I finished the fuel hose installs for the 1/2" inlet and 5/16" injection hoses to and from the filter. I'll place the pre-pump filter after I sit the tank in place to see how clearance is for the bulky filter.

I cut the remaining 3" segments of the 45mm hose and used smooth bore hose clamps to hold them to the throttle bodies, so the air box is now in place.

The wiring harness for the injectors and sensors is in place.

I found that the wide band O2 controller I had (LC-1) is too large/cumbersome (way too much wire) for my needs, so I shopped for an alternative. (outdated content deleted)

UPDATE: The BPSX unit is no longer made and apparently had problems with accuracy. I found a decent replacement for $75 called the Spartan2. The vendor says it was designed to work with Megasquirt.

I'm getting the tuning software setup and gathering numbers to input for the sensors and settings. There is a lot to learn there, so many screens.

As an unrelated "while I was at it", I re-wired the fairing and placed dual relays in it for low and high beam using the fuse panel in the fairing. I also bought a pair of used horns from a late model Kawasaki, since the aftermarket ones I had did not hold up. I had a Hella 335Hz horn but could not find an affordable high tone horn to match it.

[coombehouse]

Have you decided what software to use yet? I notice you mentioned the microsquirt v3 manual in an earlier post. I read this from end to end & decided to go for ms2 extra. It has its own manuals & seems much easier to programme than ms v3. I also used alpha n rather than the speed density settings that the ms v3 manual advises. Better for bikes apparently.
Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

You are talking about firmware (see link below) and I think you have confused Megasquirt 3 with Microsquirt V3. The actual tuning SW is called Tuner Studio, and it depends on what is on the controller (MS unit). In my case, I had V3 out of the box since I recently bought the unit. There's a lot of info here:

http://www.msextra.com/feature-xref.html

Microsquirt uses the MS2 Extra code:

"For Megasquirt 2, Microsquirt and Microsquirt Module, the features listed are those from MS2/Extra code 2.1.0
Megasquirt3 are using their own latest firmwares."

I know I saw an option for Alpha N but I'm still going through a lot of details right now and will cross that bridge when I get to it.

[coombehouse]

Yes sorry you are correct its firmware. However I still believe you are reading the wrong manual if its the one posted previously. The ms2 extra manual is here if that is the firmware you intend to use

http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html#ms2

Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks, I'll look it over and see which one is correct for my controller.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Here are some pics from the past few weeks.

Wix pre-pump filter 33274:


Fuel pump test fit with silicone hose and one clamp:


Throttle bodies 1:


Throttle bodies 2:


Throttle bodies 3:

[GS1000G Shopper]

Some pics with the tank in place:







Rear section with PWM module (O2 controller will also go here):

[GS1000G Shopper]

A short update, I had a few issues with the Microsquirt firmware. I had updated from 3.77 to 3.83 and the coolant sensor went way low and I saw no cranking RPM (no tach signal). After some help on the Megasquirt forum, I ended up loading the MS Extra firmware (v. 3.42) and it made setup a lot easier. The coolant sensor is OK now and I also see cranking RPM, so the tach signal is coming thru.

At that point the fuel pump no longer works- even when direct wired. The oil pressure sender lug broke off when I was installing it (this also happened on my blue GS1000), so I'm buying an Autometer sender. Two steps forward and two back.