GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[posplayr]

there are 10 wires defined for three different pumps. Do you have more wires than that?

You can probably visually inspect or buzz the board but I bet every one of the Red's is +12V either to the pump or power. Same of the Black all grounds.

[GS1000G Shopper]

After doing some reading on the subject, I think the reason why my Arudino didn't work was because I used the aluminum case as a heatsink for the output transistor. This effectively grounded the output pin, which then fed power to the pump regardless of the input.

Still no word from the guy that made the aftermarket controller. I'll likely go with a best guess scenario on wiring it.

EDIT
I heard from him a couple of days later. Post above updated with photos & diagram.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The thread is fairly well organized now (see first post for table of contents), and I tired to start the bike today w/o success. It is sputtering but won't run. I checked for spark on plugs 1 and 3 and saw I was getting a spark, fuel pressure is good. I'm sure this is a setting somewhere on the Tuner Studio setup. I've asked the gurus on the MS forum for some help with my settings.

[posplayr]

The thread is fairly well organized now (see first post for table of contents), and I tired to start the bike today w/o success. It is sputtering but won't run. I checked for spark on plugs 1 and 3 and saw I was getting a spark, fuel pressure is good. I'm sure this is a setting somewhere on the Tuner Studio setup. I've asked the gurus on the MS forum for some help with my settings.

Very nice way to "get organized". It is often hard to find all the details for peopled projects and hopefully others will follow your example and improve the website by making the details more accessible.

Some of my threads have run on in the past, but at least I try to put a summary at the first thread with forward links as required. Your seems more diligent than the efforts I made.

[Dogma]

Exemplary!

[GS1000G Shopper]

After several days and several firmware and tuning changes, I still can't get the bike to start. I'm currently back to firmware 3.83, and have figured out the settings needed to get it to register RPM with my dual trigger setup. This basically alienated me on the MS Extra forum, so now I'm a noob and worthless (all posts are moderated) on the Microsquirt forum, which I had to find and create an "approved" email address just to join. This also rendered my cylinder head temp thermister invalid, as it reports temps of -32 F even after calibration (it worked fine w/ other versions). It may be the MS can't handle settings up to 300F, so I'll try a lower top point and see what happens.

It occurs to me it's amazing Suzuki was able to make these bikes run 30+ years ago with then-existing technology.

I cannot recommend this as a viable option for anyone wanting to convert to fuel injection. I can see why so many projects were abandoned.

[coombehouse]

Hey I am sorry to read you are having problems. I think I read somewhere the dual trigger set up was unproven with msextra but is supported by the ms firmware. The manual has info on the settings but I must admit I didn't understand it too much. That's why most people (me included) tend to go for something more conventional like the 36-1 tooth trigger.
I have seen something about the problems you are experiencing with the thermistor. I believe that it can be fixed but I have no idea where I read it. I think it involves writing something different in the firmware. Well beyond me.
I hope you won't give up on your project as the microsquirt is sold as experimental so I guess there will be a few problems along the way. Certainly your choice of trigger has probably made things a little difficult but it will be interesting to see how it works.
Good luck
Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

LOL, the dual pickup looked to be the "reliable" setup as opposed to taping into one of the coil wires. It seems like if this can be used to power an ignitor in 1981, it should be far easier to do so in 2013.

I'm not giving up, I love this bike and want it to run. I don't want to try and fit a 36-1 wheel in if I can avoid it.

I have spark on plugs 3 and 4 (did not pull the wires on 1 and 2 since they are on the same coils), my fuel pressure is dropping while cranking, so I have fuel and spark, just not at the right time.

There are many more questions I can and will ask on this, it is just everything involved with this is a hassle, e.g. batteries run down (bike & laptop), hoops to jump through just to post on a forum, etc.

I found a site called msruns.com and looked for anything similar (UJM type of 4 cylinder bike). One post had several responses, and I noted every one of them was the member's only post on that forum. The fellow I referenced here with the GPZ a few posts back was on the Microsquirt forum and I've followed up on one of his posts (he had 3 in total) from January 2012.

[coombehouse]

Obvious question but what did you do with the oe advance & retard mechanism? How did you lock it up?

Also is this of any relevance to you CHT issue. Air cooled Vw & Porsche have the same probs.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=179517&st=0&p=1662723&#entry1662723

Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

Still working on how to lock out the advance. It goes from 17 BTDC under 1500 RPM to 37 BTDC above 2350.

The CHT thermistor I'm using worked fine in Microsquirt B&G firmware v. 3.77 and also MS Extra 3.24, so I don't know what changed in B&G v. 3.83. What the 914 people were talking about (defaulting to 180 degrees) does not happen on my GS, I just get a bogus reading (like -32 F) from start up.

I did look through the 3.83 ini file, and neither set EXPANDED_CLT_TEMP nor #unset EXPANDED_CLT_TEMP were there. Every instance of EXPANDED_CLT_TEMP was preceded by "if".

I found a mainController.ini file in the 3.83 folder and it was the same way.

I did find the line #unset EXPANDED_CLT_TEMP in a file called settings.ini in the MS (not the 3.83) folder. It says this:
; This setting allows for expanded coolant temperature ranges for gauges
; and inputs - for example -40F to 600F instead of -40F to 200F. This is
; useful for air-cooled vehicles. This setting only adjusts the temperature
; displays and input limits used by MegaTune. You will still need to
; upload the appropriate coolant lookup table that is specific to your
; coolant sensor if it is different from the stock GM sensor. Works with
; MegaSquirt-II only

#unset EXPANDED_CLT_TEMP "Expanded Coolant Temperature Range"

I'll change it and see what happens.

EDIT
I gave this some thought and since when you load an updated firmware, you also use the corresponding ini file (not settings.ini), I added the line # set EXPANDED_CLT_TEMP after # set AUTO_TRIG near the beginning of the 3.83 ini file and renamed it so I know to use this file. I'll reload the FW and see if this makes a difference.

UPDATE
This didn't work, so I reloaded v. 3.78 again and the CLT reading is now normal.

[coombehouse]

Well I am glad you seem to understand all of that. Sounds complicated to me but I think I get the general idea.
Regarding the advance/retard weights, I have tried to drill them but they are hardened steel. I think I would look at lock wiring them up, or maybe welding the moving sleeve to the shaft? If you want to buy something then have a look on eBay at this item 160907825773.
Pingel also sell the same http://www.pingelonline.com/billet_advance.htm
I did make a copy to use with my previous ignition system but it was a little tricky to get the dowels in the correct place.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The Microsquirt forum has a lot of crickets chirping.

Just saw your post, thanks for the link and eBay item, which is $32. $17 to ship a small piece of aluminum? I oppose that on principle, sell it for what you want, don't screw people with inflated shipping costs. The Pingel page won't load to show the price. I guess if you have to ask how much... I found a PDF link for their prices and it looks to be $53.05 plus shipping, so eBay is the better deal.

These do not appear to have a "tooth" on them so the pickup coil can read the crank position, so I presume you add old parts onto them?

[GS1000G Shopper]

I removed the advance unit & tried to keep it simple by bending in the arms that limit the weights moving out. One broke off, so I broke off the other one, ground them down, and welded the weights to the base. While cleaning the welds, I managed to nick the round part where the dowel goes, I'm not sure if this seals on the oil seal in the case or not. I may invest in one of the Pingel units, as I'm sure this part needs to be evenly balanced.

EDIT
Seems like the thing to do with this apart is to figure out how to add a 36-1 wheel in place of the advance unit using the pins on the billet part. I can't find one smaller than 4" in the USA, the link is a place in England that sells a 2.5" version. The next battle after that is to figure out how to mount a pickup using the OEM mounts.

[coombehouse]

No it doesn't run on the seal. It sits inside the recess in the crank. The crank runs on the seal. It should be fine. The pingel item is cool though but i reckon get the thing running first.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks for the info. I'm concerned about centrifugal imbalance. I don't think it will come apart, but I'm not sure I removed equal amounts of metal, or added equal amounts while welding.