GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

According to Bosch (I called), the 69469 pump from the VW Transporter draws < 4.5A, and it is the stock number for the 085 pump. You really have to shop for this, as the 0580464085 pump on eBay is $188 + shipping from England ($5). The 69469 pump is over $120 there but only $89 with free shipping on Amazon.

This is what I'm going to go with unless something better turns up within the next few weeks.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Next, the cylinder and head, from Pit Stop Performance here in Florida.

The close up pic of the head shows where the intake boots were port-matched to the head.

[Dogma]

Will you be doing anything to protect that Arduino against vibration?

[GS1000G Shopper]

EDIT
The Arudino is no longer planned, I'm using an aftermarket PWM controller linked in the first thread.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Time for some cylinder guru advice. I have:
1981 1000G case
1983 1100G cylinder bored to 73.5mm
1983 1100G D-port head

I'll use the head gasket that came with the big bore kit. I also plan on using a syringe to cc each chamber and calculate my approximate CR.

The 1000G uses a base gasket and cylinder o-ring. The gasket part # is 11241-49010 superseded by 11241-49400.

The 1100G uses only a base gasket, and there were two different part numbers for the 1100G: 11241-49401, shows as 1.0 mm thick and superseded by 11241-49401-H17 (no thickness listed).

The small o-rings are the same.

I need to verify the proper Suzuki gasket to use here, as I'm not going to use an aftermarket one for the base gasket.

After doing some reading, I may invest in a set of APE studs & nuts from Z1 as well. It goes w/o saying I don't want to button this up and have an oil leak.

[49er]

The superseded base gasket is 0.5 mm (0.020"). It's what I had to use on my 850, as one size now fits all G engines. It has sealed ok.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Good to know. The one in my aftermarkket gasket set is 1.0mm, and there are some OEM old number gaskets on eBay for less than a new one.

I've also decided against replacing the studs, but will use new nuts & washers.

[mrl1000l]

I remember reading in srsupertrapp's rebuild that the OEM GS1100 base gasket is .039" thick Here is his post

You won't need cylinder o-rings.

On the piston set you got, does the dome look more like a 1000 piston or the lower CR 1100 piston?

[GS1000G Shopper]

Makes sense, .039=1mm. I bought one on eBay still in the parts wrapper that is 1mm.

The piston is supposed to be an exact replica of the 1000 piston except for bore size. I'll try to link a pic from the current eBay auction for one:


From another auction, a stock 1981 GS1000 piston:

[mrl1000l]

It does look closer to the 1000 dome, although hard to tell without a side by side. if you didn't see it, here is JohnKat's images of the 1000 vs 1100 pistons clearly a lower dome on the 1100

If it isn't too much of a pain, post of a side by side of the original piston with the BB when it's time to pull them from packaging.

[49er]

I remember reading in srsupertrapp's rebuild that the OEM GS1100 base gasket is .039" thick Here is his post

You won't need cylinder o-rings.

On the piston set you got, does the dome look more like a 1000 piston or the lower CR 1100 piston?

My error, OEM 11241-45110-H17 gaskets are now listed for all the 850 engines. When fitted to the 79 cylinders the area around the oil passages is a lot larger than the original 79 gaskets. They are 0.5 mm thick though. The 1100G number is different and looks to be thicker too.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Piston pics:

[GS1000G Shopper]

The picture is the control wiring extended to use GSXR600 controls. I did a wire for wire extension on the left side and a plug-in extension on the right side (still had to change the connector on the control).

I found the right side places the throttle tube partially off the bar, but not too bad. The left side where I had it the clutch lever hit the high beam flash button. Good way to get attention while shifting. I moved the controls out a little and then the mirror/clutch lever down. The angle may take some getting used to, but everything clears. I'll upload a wiring diagram once I know everything works.

[mrl1000l]

Thanks for the piston photos, Shopper, they are great. Looking forward to this projects finale.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Not too much going on due to some cold weather, but I'm trying to get at least one task completed per day. I recently decided to use JB Weld to fill in the openings for the secondary throttle shafts. The openings were not all the same size, and some had a stepped area that would have made it difficult to put an aluminum plug into them. I used some blue painter tape on the inside of the TB and put the JBW in the outside and let them sit upright overnight, then repeated the process the next night for the other side.

Today I repaired one of the oil pan bolt holes that was stripped with a perma coil repair insert.

Conditions permitting, tomorrow I hope to clean up the base gasket and oil pan areas on the block and maybe install the pistons. Not looking forward to installing the cylinder since I only have 2 hands. I read a thread here and watched a video so I think the hose clamp method will work.

Once all of that stuff is completed, I can put the engine back in the frame, although since I'm rebuilding the forks w/ progressive springs I may wait on that since the front end is off the ground now.

Still thinking about where to put the fuel pump, which is 2" in diameter if I go with the Bosch.