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GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection
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GS1000G Shopper
Originally posted by posplayr View PostWell thanks; despite the interesting signal which I have no idea what it is. The units and divisions of graph are basically illegible.
The purpose of this forum/thread was to show how to convert the bike to fuel injection. From the first post:
Originally posted by MeMy goal is to make it a repeatable project so others can do so if they think they have the time, money, and ability.
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Originally posted by GS1000G Shopper View PostThat's another reason why a forum such as this one is not the place to perform datalog analysis. The forum resized a very legible 1118x608 pixel graphic into a large thumbnail. It is indeed illegible.
The purpose of this forum/thread was to show how to convert the bike to fuel injection. From the first post:
The purpose of the MS Extra (or any Megasquirt) forum is to help with getting an engine started and then tuning. While there is some crossover between the two, it's like medicine- you do not see a neurosurgeon for an ingrown toenail and you don't visit a podiatrist for a brain tumor.
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GS1000G Shopper
The new WB controller finally arrived (via slow boat from Canada, eh?). While it looks good, I overlooked that it only works with a newer LSU 4.9 / 17025 sensor, so my existing sensor is no good. I found the best deal on Amazon for $48 shipped and have posted a link in the contents post. More hurry up & wait. On the plus side, the 4.9 uses a smaller connector so it will be easier to run the wiring. I will update the diagram for this once I have everything completed.
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GS1000G Shopper
I got the new O2 sensor installed today, I think it had a shipping waypoint in nearly every western state between Washington and Colorado (edit more proof of the hot rodder's credo of good, fast, or cheap- pick 2 ). The Spartan 2 calibration sequence is very easy. I created a dash in Tuner Studio that only showed the AFR reading, and then recorded it with my phone. You have to capture the reading from the sensor after it is powered on for the first 5 then the second 5 seconds. Using the spreadsheet the vendor provided, I got corrected readings of 10.42 and 19.80 for 0 and 5 volts respectively (initial specs were 10.0 and 20.0 so the controller was not off by much). I have updated the wiring diagrams for the Spartan 2 controller.
Next I'll put the tank back on and try some more riding/tuning.
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GS1000G Shopper
The aggravation factor is high today. I got the tablet set up and performed a warm up auto tune. Idle seemed to improve. I then did some road auto tuning of the VE table until the Microsquirt connector cable vibrated loose and no matter what I did at roadside it would not reconnect. After several rounds of uninstalling/reinstalling the device and com ports, I got it reconnected. In the meantime, I looked at my data logs and found the AFR remained at 19.7 the entire ride.
I then probed the controller's port and saw it was reading 4.88V no matter what the engine RPM. It output the lower voltages for the 5 second startup intervals, so that part appears to be working. The controller LED that reads the temperature is working properly.
I have reached out to the vendor for assistance.
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I wish I had your commitment and patience. You could be a donor for patience implants.1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
1983 GS 1100 G
2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)
I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.
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GS1000G Shopper
Originally posted by 1948man View PostI wish I had your commitment and patience. You could be a donor for patience implants.
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It is always nice to know what is going on at the port. I have been using these and they work well for hooking to my PC and laptop. Two ports available.
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If you need 9-Pin Serial mixed with USB then this works well. You only have to follow some special instructions for getting the drivers to install. I'm using it under Win 7 on 3 machines.
Amazon.com: SABRENT USB 2.0 to Serial (9 Pin) DB 9 RS 232 Converter Cable, Prolific Chipset, HEXNUTS, [Windows 11/10/8.1/8/7/VISTA/XP, Mac OS X 10.6 and Above] 2.5 Feet (CB-DB9P) : Electronics
There are cheaper, and in any event you probably need to find the older drivers to get the device to work. The one above is "name brand" as they supplied a CD although I did not use it.
I had also had another USB to 9-Pin D'Sub interface, but the USB cable wiggled around too much and it would was finicky on a lab bench and not something to trust on a motorcycle riding around.Last edited by posplayr; 09-07-2015, 04:33 PM.
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GS1000G Shopper
I had used the second item with my laptop, they are very finicky about drivers. I ended up using a card (express?) that used an opening on the laptop and had a serial port. That was the most reliable connection I used. The tablet works great since it runs Win 7, is a perfect fit bungeed on top of the tank, and can perform the autotune while I'm riding. Today just revealed more problems to overcome. Tomorrow (or more likely 2 weeks from now the way shipping/returns work ) is another day.
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Originally posted by GS1000G Shopper View PostI had used the second item with my laptop, they are very finicky about drivers. I ended up using a card (express?) that used an opening on the laptop and had a serial port. That was the most reliable connection I used.
For anybody else, here are the directions; Pages 3 thru 6 have the specific instructions to follow to get the Prolific driver setup correctly so you can use most any of the cheapo USB convertor on ebay.
Installing the Backdated Prolific PL2303 Driver 3.2.0.0
System Requires 32/64 bit Windows Vista / 7 / 8 / 10
I'm developing a system at the moment that will use at least two USB serial ports on my Host side, maybe more. My Serial Code under windows will only run at 115K even though Win32 API is supposed to support 256K Baud. Considering my earlier baud rates this is fast.
EDIT: I just checked both my RS-232 ports installed in these machines as well as the backdated (3.2.0.0 dated 7/31/2007) Prolific drivers are limited to 128K baud.
BTW, this is one of the cheapo convertors that also works with the exact same drivers. As mentioned before the USB connector is cheap and does not provide a good mechanical hold on the inserted USB cable.
This style has better mechanical properties but you have to pay for what you get.
Last edited by posplayr; 09-07-2015, 07:48 PM.
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GS1000G Shopper
I have an LC1 in two of my project cars. If they were easier to get to and not wired in already, I might try one of them here. The second place seemed like it had a much better rep than the first one. Time will tell, I hope I'll hear something tomorrow. The bad thing is as far as I can tell there is no way to test a WB sensor short of specialized software. The only thing I've been able to see via Tuner Studio is a non-moving AFR and then backprobing the Spartan 2 connector and see the unchanging 4.88V. My logical thought process tells me either the sensor is defective and putting out a steady signal regardless of conditions or the controller is doing the same thing. If I knew of a way to test either I'd be glad to do so.
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GS1000G Shopper
My second Shapeways order has arrived, and one of the items was a "Fuel Injection" emblem I designed. It came in black plastic, so I used a couple of paint markers (Orange & Metallic Gold) to mimic the side cover emblem appearance. The attached photo has a damaged emblem from my blue bike for reference. I'm going to see if I can rehab it.
CAM00472.jpg
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GS1000G Shopper
The replacement sensor arrived & did the same 4.88V thing, so the controller vendor has asked I return the controller and sensor to Canada for repair. Depending on how this goes, I may change the table of contents link & suggest another controller.
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