GS1000 hydraulic clutch

[Agemax]

i have decided i am going to convert my GS to hydraulic clutch. i plan on using a late Bandit M/C as they have the upright/flat bars,compared to the GSXR angled/clip on style bars.
for the slave i will use a late Suzuki item, not sure which yet but a trawl through ebay should give an idea of what is what, although i think they are all pretty much the same......
i already have a plate mounted over the front sprocket to mount the outrigger bearing so i will just need to extend that to mount the slave.

GS750 pushrod oil seal in place of the 1000 blanking plug, and a push rod made by my local friendly engineer. will a one piece pushrod be ok or should i make it 2 piece with a bearing in between?

with a hydraulic clutch i will then be able to machine out fully the clutch cover so i get the "proper" window clutch, instead of the "spider" in there at the moment.

[Steve]

Sounds like a LOT of effort for a "look", but I like where it's going.

I have thought of hydraulic, too, at times, but need to find a slave cylnder that pulls, not pushes, to match up with the release on the shafties.

.

[Agemax]

i am not doing it JUST for the look, although that is a bonus,i like the feel and reliability of a hydraulic clutch plus i have never been able to correctly route the cable so it is almost hidden while still giving a nice smooth action

[GregT]

Mmm can be done - I can see why you want to but personally I wouldn't bother.
Make the rod one piece in silver steel Heat the ends to cherry red and quench in oil to harden. BUT, only do this after you've established the right length, lol.
Keep the needle roller thrust bearing at the pressure plate but you may need to make a carrier for it which fits inside the p plate and accepts the rod end. This won't need to be hardened.

BTW - I've seen a hydraulic clutch conversion done with a brake slave cylinder pushing the std operating arm. You wouldn't like it as it's all visible and not neat....

[Agemax]

Mmm can be done - I can see why you want to but personally I wouldn't bother.
Make the rod one piece in silver steel Heat the ends to cherry red and quench in oil to harden. BUT, only do this after you've established the right length, lol.
Keep the needle roller thrust bearing at the pressure plate but you may need to make a carrier for it which fits inside the p plate and accepts the rod end. This won't need to be hardened.

BTW - I've seen a hydraulic clutch conversion done with a brake slave cylinder pushing the std operating arm. You wouldn't like it as it's all visible and not neat....

so why "wouldn't you bother"? it is not difficult to do, the hardest part is getting the pushrod the correct length. i planned on making a small bearing housing for the rod to seat in the pressure plate, together with the thrust bearing.
how was this brake cyilinder mounted? the operating arm would need to be rotated 180 degrees on the shaft in order to "push" it to disengage the clutch.got any pics of it?

[Agemax]

this looks promising, nice and compact........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-1098S-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-/281086017537?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4172084001

[SqDancerLynn1]

You have more control with a cable operated clutch

[Agemax]

You have more control with a cable operated clutch

in what way? i have ridden loads of bikes with hydraulic clutches and all had good feel and easy control over feathering in the clutch

[quexpress]

in what way? i have ridden loads of bikes with hydraulic clutches and all had good feel and easy control over feathering in the clutch

We are on the same page Adrian.
I love hydraulic clutches ... "Art Ritis" in my left hand also agrees.

[mrl1000l]

The easy of pull and amount of pull required is mostly dependent on the size of the slave. Most ducati owners swap for a larger piston slave because the stock one is a little tough for a 2 finger pull, but the distance you have to pull it is greatly reduced with the small piston.

I hope this helps you with your decision

edit: sorry, just saw it is dependent on the master size as well, although you have more selection in the slave size

[Agemax]

The easy of pull and amount of pull required is mostly dependent on the size of the slave. Most ducati owners swap for a larger piston slave because the stock one is a little tough for a 2 finger pull, but the distance you have to pull it is greatly reduced with the small piston.

I hope this helps you with your decision

edit: sorry, just saw it is dependent on the master size as well, although you have more selection in the slave size

thanks for that, makes good sense. i have just found this on ebay.......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111046558389?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

which should help a lot. and at that price its got to be worth a try

[GregT]

so why "wouldn't you bother"? it is not difficult to do, the hardest part is getting the pushrod the correct length. i planned on making a small bearing housing for the rod to seat in the pressure plate, together with the thrust bearing.
how was this brake cyilinder mounted? the operating arm would need to be rotated 180 degrees on the shaft in order to "push" it to disengage the clutch.got any pics of it?

I wouldn't bother because I build racebikes - on the KISS principle....

don't have any pics sorry, it was a road bike i did a tune on several years ago. From memory the slave was mounted on a plate bolted onto the top case using various extended case bolts and spacers. It worked but it couldn't have been called neat.

[Agemax]

I wouldn't bother because I build racebikes - on the KISS principle....

don't have any pics sorry, it was a road bike i did a tune on several years ago. From memory the slave was mounted on a plate bolted onto the top case using various extended case bolts and spacers. It worked but it couldn't have been called neat.

ok cool, well my GS is only a road bike.
so what is your KISS principle?

[GregT]

ok cool, well my GS is only a road bike.
so what is your KISS principle?

You've never heard of it ?

Keep It Simple, Stupid...

If I'm away at a race meeting and snap a clutch cable, the fix is much easier than hunting for a replacement mastercylinder or slave cylinder seals.

[Agemax]

after a bit more thought i am going to stick with the bandit M/C and slave cylinder. they were designed to work with each other so it makes sense to stick with a matched pair.
plenty available on ebay