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    #46
    I would use Cunifer rather than copper, even steel. Copper fatigues really quickly with vibration & you're going to have plenty in that location!
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    Comment


      #47
      Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
      I would use Cunifer rather than copper, even steel. Copper fatigues really quickly with vibration & you're going to have plenty in that location!
      yeah good idea, although i have no idea what Cunifer is!!!
      i will mock up the pipes with copper and once i get the I/D right then i can get a steel pipe made up
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

      Comment


        #48
        Copper Nickel Iron Alloy. Don't rust, easy to bend & don't fatigue like copper. You do need to support it fairly well, not as rigid as steel....



        Google it. Highly recommended in the classic car scene both in the UK & the US. Sometimes also spelt with a K. Kunifer.
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
          Copper Nickel Iron Alloy. Don't rust, easy to bend & don't fatigue like copper. You do need to support it fairly well, not as rigid as steel....



          Google it. Highly recommended in the classic car scene both in the UK & the US. Sometimes also spelt with a K. Kunifer.
          cool, yeah i see it now. Kunifer seems the preferred spelling over here.
          just as cheap as copper so i will give that a try.
          i will need a banjo fitting as the slave has no bleed nipple so i will have to use a single banjo bolt with built in bleed nipple. loads of them to choose from
          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment


            #50
            Originally posted by Agemax View Post
            not sure i am with you on the holes....
            You have to anchor the slave to the casing and you have two holes that are already there, they don't already line up so you'll have to move them, either build up the metal or cleverly machine the slave.
            sigpic

            Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

            Comment


              #51
              Originally posted by tatu View Post
              You have to anchor the slave to the casing and you have two holes that are already there, they don't already line up so you'll have to move them, either build up the metal or cleverly machine the slave.
              yeah i know that, i said before i have to make a plate to mount it.
              if you look at the red arrow in this pic, that is the extrusion that needs to be removed, enough to rotate the slave anticlockwise so that the bottom mount hole lines up with the hole in the crankcase, marked with a blue arrow. that gives me 1 secure anchor. then make a plate to line up with the other 2 mount holes on the slave, and secure the plate to the 2 holes that originally secured the blanking plug securing tab.


              next problem is the bolt hole marked with the blue arrow is damaged. it is an original mount hole used for the sprocket cover. i am hoping there is enough material in the crankcase so that i can drill and tap that hole deeper to use for the bottom bolt.

              i think all that makes sense!!!
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #52
                Yes it does.
                Just to ask, how much do you think you could mill off the face with the number to make it slimmer to fit your plate? Because you could counter sink all the mount holes and gain a bit there to give you more clearance.
                sigpic

                Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by tatu View Post
                  Yes it does.
                  Just to ask, how much do you think you could mill off the face with the number to make it slimmer to fit your plate? Because you could counter sink all the mount holes and gain a bit there to give you more clearance.
                  with the slave rotated, i will mill down the top slave mount hole and counterbore it so a 6mm allen bolt will fit in flush.
                  the plate i plan to fit between the slave and the crankcase. 5mm thick so it is enough to tap 6mm holes. the 2 holes that secure it to the crankcase will be countersunk.
                  this is roughly what the plate will look like.


                  do you think that will work?
                  1978 GS1085.

                  Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                    with the slave rotated, i will mill down the top slave mount hole and counterbore it so a 6mm allen bolt will fit in flush.
                    the plate i plan to fit between the slave and the crankcase. 5mm thick so it is enough to tap 6mm holes. the 2 holes that secure it to the crankcase will be countersunk.
                    this is roughly what the plate will look like.


                    do you think that will work?
                    Looks very splendid! I like it. How will you seal it to stop the oil leaking on the shaft end?
                    sigpic

                    Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                    Comment


                      #55
                      there will be a nylon spacer that fits in the transmission hole, with an o ring. the slave already has an o ring. all will be clamped up tight once it is all bolted in
                      Last edited by Agemax; 04-09-2013, 05:23 PM.
                      1978 GS1085.

                      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Sorted!
                        sigpic

                        Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                        Comment


                          #57
                          can anyone help me out with the problem i have with the broken mount hole shown in the picture above.(blue arrow post#51).
                          is the crankcase thick enough to drill and tap deeper or even drill right through and tap? i am not sure if there is anything directly behind it without splitting the cases.

                          cheers.
                          1978 GS1085.

                          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                            can anyone help me out with the problem i have with the broken mount hole shown in the picture above.(blue arrow post#51).
                            is the crankcase thick enough to drill and tap deeper or even drill right through and tap? i am not sure if there is anything directly behind it without splitting the cases.

                            cheers.
                            I've got a scrap bottom case and I'll have a look tomorrow.
                            sigpic

                            Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by tatu View Post
                              I've got a scrap bottom case and I'll have a look tomorrow.
                              cheers Tatu. i've had enough for tonight now. eyes have stopped focussing haha...........
                              1978 GS1085.

                              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                              Comment


                                #60
                                I drilled the case and its 9mm.
                                sigpic

                                Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                                Comment

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