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GS1100E routing air pressure equalization line

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    #1

    GS1100E routing air pressure equalization line

    Not sure if this should be over in carbs, but since it's got 'performance mods'...

    My '82 1100E seems to "hunt" when running on the highway at steady speeds (65+). I suspect the positioning of the carburetor pressure equalization line. The tube is currently run up under the seat over the inner fender. I added a small plastic tool tray from another bike to cover up the opening between the frame rails where the airbox used to be. The bike has side covers installed.

    I know these tubes don't work well when dropped directly into the airstream and think this location is pretty sheltered. Stock position is usually right at the inlet to the airbox (removed).

    Background: The engine is set up with K&N pods, Dynojet Stage 3, and Kerker 4:1 pipe with street baffle. Not sure if anyone remembers my early tuning troubles, but the bike came with a HUGE Kerker drag baffle that I could barely get the carbs tuned to run with. Replacing that baffle with a normal sized baffle helped ridability (and sound) greatly. I ended up with all the Stage 3 components in place and the needle in its absolute highest position. The only thing I can do next is bigger main jets and I am still considering drilling out a set of my small jets to try it. But she seems to be fine WOT, running strong and cleanly to (and past) redline, which is why I haven't done that yet (plus all the needle fiddling I'd have to do again!).

    I've also read about wind turbulence affecting K&N pods on drag engines, but forget the source.

    Does anybody have a similar setup? Where are you routing your atmospheric pressure line?

    Any votes for playing with the main jets instead?
    Tags: None
    #2
    the common solution to running pods is to remove the pipes altogether. Dynojet recommend this and i, as well as countless others have done this and it seems to work fine.
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Agemax View Post
      the common solution to running pods is to remove the pipes altogether. Dynojet recommend this and i, as well as countless others have done this and it seems to work fine.
      I haven't heard that before. Are you saying to simply disconnect the tubes at the carbs?

      (note, my carbs are set up with two tubes, joined by a T, and running a single equalization line back under the seat)

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by AJ View Post
        I haven't heard that before. Are you saying to simply disconnect the tubes at the carbs?

        (note, my carbs are set up with two tubes, joined by a T, and running a single equalization line back under the seat)
        yep, just pull the pipes off the the carbs and leave the "nipples" open.
        1978 GS1085.

        Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

        Comment

          #5
          this is the sheet i got with my DJ kit, scanned it and highlighted the right bit....

          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment

            #6
            Same recommendation for the VM Carburetors. I have never had any trouble running mine like that.
            '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
              Same recommendation for the VM Carburetors. I have never had any trouble running mine like that.
              yeah, mine are the VM carbs, you get the same instructions with either kit for the GS1K, but they include all parts on the list, so the kit will work with CV's or VM's.
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                this is the sheet i got with my DJ kit, scanned it and highlighted the right bit....

                That is a very old kit. EDIT it seems to be the wrong jet kit. It is for a GS1000

                Jet Kit for 1980-1986 Suzuki GS1100
                http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
                Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS1100/1986


                Now a days the DJ3133 comes with 132/138 which is stock you would go with the 132 when adding 4:1 and Pods. The needle also has a different part number which they seem to have fiddled with the design.

                Usually this is a pretty standard setup so I would guess your problems are the old jet kit and more specifically the needles.
                Last edited by posplayr; 05-08-2013, 12:17 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                  That is a very old kit.

                  Jet Kit for 1980-1986 Suzuki GS1100
                  http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
                  Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS1100/1986


                  Now a days the DJ3133 comes with 132/138 which is stock you would go with the 132 when adding 4:1 and Pods. The needle also has a different part number which they seem to have fiddled with the design.

                  Usually this is a pretty standard setup so I would guess your problems are the old jet kit and more specifically the needles.
                  i dont have any problems with my set up. i just showed the pic so OP could see about removing vent hoses.........
                  1978 GS1085.

                  Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                  Comment

                    #10
                    As Agemax said, simply lose the vent hoses... I'm running pods on my '81 1100 & that's exactly what Ive done with zero ill effects...
                    '85 GS550L - SOLD
                    '85 GS550E - SOLD
                    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                    '81 GS750L - SOLD
                    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                      this is the sheet i got with my DJ kit, scanned it and highlighted the right bit....
                      Thank you, Sir! I'll give that a try and see if it fixes it!

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by AJ View Post
                        Thank you, Sir! I'll give that a try and see if it fixes it!
                        i cant say that it will fix it, it is just what they recommend thats all
                        1978 GS1085.

                        Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                          i dont have any problems with my set up. i just showed the pic so OP could see about removing vent hoses.........
                          Sorry, I thought that was the OP posting

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                            Sorry, I thought that was the OP posting
                            Oh no! Didn't you hear that I stuffed a GS1000 8V motor in my frame? I was told that was Suzuki's best engine!

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Haven't tried to remove that balance tube yet, but I did find the Dynojet instructions online and there is nothing in there about removing it. http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
                              Looked at a few other instruction sheets too and none of them recommend removing the vent tubes. Will give Dynojet a call tomorrow.
                              Last edited by Guest; 05-09-2013, 10:43 PM.

                              Comment

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