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    High RPM Slipping Clutch

    OK I got the parts on order like springs and fibers to fix my clutch. But I was thinking the problem just started up two weeks ago after I added Havoline 1040 motor oil. Book says to use 1040 SE of SF oil.

    Looking at the bottle 1040 Havoline is SL, SJ, SH and I'm thinking this oil may have friction modifiers???. So I'm going to change back to my old oil. Don't laugh it's Car and Driver 1040 oil from Target at just over a buck and I used it all last year. So I'll give it a try just to verified the clutch is toast if my parts don't show up by Friday.

    Who looks at the backs of bottles anyways.
    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

    #2
    If you fit a lock-up you won't (shouldn't?) have any worries.
    I know it's a big expense, but what it saves in clutch plates & springs makes it cheaper in the end.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Paul
      If you fit a lock-up you won't (shouldn't?) have any worries.
      I know it's a big expense, but what it saves in clutch plates & springs makes it cheaper in the end.
      I was thinking the same thing Jake. Now that you use an air shifter you are shifting by just killikg the engine any how and once you are locked up i believe it wont slip any more. I theeeeenk

      Comment


        #4
        What's the down side to a lockup? Can you not shift using the clutch?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lhanscom
          What's the down side to a lockup? Can you not shift using the clutch?
          the lock up locks at a set rpm
          yopu adjust it it can ge easily set to allow for street riding also(( I believe so))
          Biker 66 in sweeden is running a lockup on his street bike. Maybe he will chime in.

          YOO HOO PETER HEDMAN where are you?????

          Comment


            #6
            Re: High RPM Slipping Clutch

            Originally posted by RacingJake
            OK I got the parts on order like springs and fibers to fix my clutch. But I was thinking the problem just started up two weeks ago after I added Havoline 1040 motor oil. Book says to use 1040 SE of SF oil.
            I'm betting on the plates and not the oil. Don't forget to buy a box of gaskets to go with your new parts.

            Comment


              #7
              Jake first thing is go bead blast your steel plates and make sure they are flat. Probably need new fibers. I have used lockups and sliders. If you are drag racing only get a slider. The benefits are numerous. You have a button to leave on instead of s lever and your reaction times will drop and be more consistant. You also are much much easier on your driveline. The slider is so smooth it stops wheel spin and makes riding a pleasure. Downside is cost. The lockup is much simpler and probably on your combo stock springs with one nut will be all you need. The good thing is cost and simplicity. You get what you pay for in drag racing. I wish I could be local to you. I think I could show you several things that cost me a lot of time and money to learn. Good luck you seem to be enjoying yourself and thats what its all about. My problem was it became so serious it took the fun out of it for me.

              Comment


                #8
                Im enjoying athing Jake racing while i sit in the chair in front of my computer. Im becoming a fan of his.

                Comment


                  #9
                  May 1st the 1/8th mile strip around here opens, I may be trying to compete with you Jake. It will definatly take some trips down the strip though to get within spitting distance of you. Should be fun.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks Guy's for the support

                    I'm looking at a MRE lockup with their new cover in a few month so you don't have to drop the exhaust and it will work with the V&H pipe. Cover around 250 and lockup 125.
                    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That cover will be worth it. I used to get so tired of dropping the clutch cover to make a change or check the clutch.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I think so too. If I don't go that route I'll have to buy a new exhaust system just to clear the cover. So I might as well go for the easy way.

                        If you ride these GS's hard they tend to go faster. Just slap a 14T in the front and you can really feel the difference.
                        1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                        1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                        1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                        1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                        01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                        Comment


                          #13
                          hi. I had the same symptoms with my GS a couple of weeks back after putting in some addative in the oil.. Dont..

                          I fixed my clutch, which was slipping from about 6000rpm on nice and cheaply by doing the following (keep in mind I am no bike mechanic)

                          1. Pulled the cover after dropping the brake and footpeg off

                          2. Undid the bolts and took all those little springs out

                          3. Pulled all the disks? and metal plates out and straight into a bowl of warm soapy water. no kidding.. bowl of 50/50 diesel and petrol

                          4. After washing using some 220 wet and dry gave everything a real gentle once over.

                          5. Stuck the lot back together in oil

                          6. went to my local Nut/bolt shop and bought new springs, which were about 1/4in longer and slightly harder to compress..

                          7. stuck it all together and no more slippage..

                          It cost me $10 to do the job, so I was happy..

                          Like the idea of a lockup though, as I shift without clutch anyway. Does this hurt the bike? Never broke a car gearbox this way...

                          CJ

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Installed new fibers and springs last night, even sanded the metal plates to remove the glaze. Weather man says 70% chance of rain tonight, so tonight looks like a rain out. I guess will see how it works next week plus it gives me an another week to get the bars mounted.

                            Schnitz's Racing come's through again. Order parts on Monday and they show up Thursday. They sure do have some sweet talking gals there.
                            1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                            1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                            1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                            1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                            01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                            Comment


                              #15
                              They look as good as they sound....

                              Comment

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