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Carb modification for CV carbs

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    Carb modification for CV carbs

    Hey All,

    as I was installing my Jet Kit from "6 sigma" there was an optional step of cutting "one turn" off of the spring that the needle sits on (about 1/8th on an inch). They say this will reduce the spring tension and at 2200 RPM and higher will result in nearly instant power delivery when opened to WOT. Below that rev level it will be much softer power delivery.

    I went with it seeing that I have 4 extra springs at stock length. I do not have the bike put back together yet, need a few final adjustments. But when I do I will let you know the result.

    I would assume that this would work for all CV carbs. use the base line "one turn" cut to start with and go further if you want more response.

    Has any one done this or heard about this modification?

    #2
    If that is the spring that holds the needle in place, there should be enough tension to prevent any movement of the spring.
    Reducing tension won't matter, as long as the spring is still held in place. The problem with cutting that spring is that, if you cut too much, the spring will not be held in the proper place and your needle jetting will be ... well ... variable. Not sure that it would be all that desirable.

    You sure you are cutting the right spring?

    Seems to me that if you were to cut the spring that pushes the slide down (the one above the diaphragm), you would lessen some tension and maybe increase some response.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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      #3
      Yes but I will double check. with the new jetting it required more spacers placed on the needle so that took up the space from the lost one turn. but I will check the tension and make sure it is not too loose.

      Comment


        #4
        The needles will only move with respect to the slide if they are loose. Any spring compression on them at all will hold them in place as there is no force acting upwards on the needle. However, I am in agreement with Steve about the slide return spring. Less spring force on the slide could result in quicker response. You don't want the spring so weak that the slide doesn't return, though. I don't think that cutting coils off the slide spring would be as effective as replacing the spring with a lighter one.
        NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

        Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
        Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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          #5
          Most people enlarge the hole in the slide for quicker response, have you looked into this?
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
            Most people enlarge the hole in the slide for quicker response, have you looked into this?
            That is the solution with the DynoJet kits, they even include the drill bit.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              Sounds like it might be worth a try. What size bit?
              NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

              Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
              Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

              Comment


                #8
                I'd go with the smallest one that's bigger than the hole now. Drill, test. Drill again, test again.

                When you get too big, make the hole smaller again and call it good.

                I think I read the one Dynajet sends is 1/8 inch, but I'm not sure.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  My 2 cents
                  I too figure they mean the slide return spring. The result would be similar to drilling the slide, making the slide rise quicker.
                  I don't agree that it would improve throttle response on all cv carbs.
                  I don't think you can change only one thing and expect a performance increase. (in a carburetor) -more likely a decrease.

                  the carburetor is tuned to coordinate fuel (gas) delivery with airflow. If all you do is clip the springs or drill the slides the carb slides rise too quickly.The midrange will lean out as the air flow will get ahead of the fuel flow. ( It will catch up )

                  My 1150 slides are not drilled, nor are the return springs shortened. They pilot, main jets and jet needles have been changed.
                  The Hawk slides are drilled, (Dyno jet kit -1/8 drill bit) stock spring length.
                  Last edited by derwood; 06-11-2013, 10:12 PM. Reason: clarity (hopefully)
                  GSX1300R NT650 XV535

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I hear what you are all saying about which spring they were talking about. I will reread and photograph the instructions tonight and post tomorrow. I will also call them and figure out what their goal is with this spring cut.

                    As for drilling the slides, I have already done this as part of the re-jetting. 6 Sigma supplied me with a 5/32 drill bit for the slides and mixture screw caps. As well as a screw to remove the caps.

                    I will let you all know what they say and what I do.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Don't forget that when you cut a spring shorter, it raises the force required to squeeze it not the opposite
                      sigpicJohn Kat
                      My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
                      GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020

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                        #12
                        Well I feel pretty foolish. Not sure how i misread the instructions but you guys were right. They were talking about the Slide spring. Sorry everybody, still learning.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
                          Sounds like it might be worth a try. What size bit?
                          Think it's about 4mm...
                          1980 GS1000G - Sold
                          1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                          1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                          1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                          2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                          1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                          2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                          www.parasiticsanalytics.com

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                            #14
                            The DJ kits I have had (gs 750 and 1100) had different size bits for them. Usually number drills, I believe their pdf files list the number size on them.
                            You have to make sure to use the proper drill bit, not the plug drill bit.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              thanks for the advise but they sent only one bit. So I used the one provided as instructed. Carbs are all done and will fire this weekend. I will let you know if what I did messed things up.

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