GS1100EZ - 40hp for $1,000?

[ozman]

Your crank is NOT welded & you have a factory stock clutch basket. You need to send the crank to someone that KNOWS what they are doing. Only 3 places in this country I will send a roller bearing crank to: Pearson Racing in Ohio, Gardner Racing in Maine or Bob Mosher at Accurate Crankshafts in Florida. NO WAY will I ever let Falicon touch another of my cranks!!! I build clutch hubs & can turn yours into a heavy duty. Welding the crank & building the clutch hub are the FIRST 2 things you HAVE to do to make your motor live a long, happy life, capable of 180-200 hp! Ray.

i would not even think of putting 180-200 hp though a helical cut gear it spends all its time side loading the clutch and crank
180-200 hp = STRAIGHT CUT GEARS
then you might get a long happy life

ozman

[blowerbike]

I have an 83 kat 1100 motor, what should I look for on it ? Eng # is S110X-158783. Where are you talking about seeing the black & silver also

82 kat motor is silver as is 80-82 E model's.
83 kat motor is black as is 83 E/ES model's.
83 kat motor has the small taper crank and a 750 size rotor and stator.
i don't pay a lot of attention to what i see in print/type/text/gossip ect..

[blowerbike]

i would not even think of putting 180-200 hp though a helical cut gear it spends all its time side loading the clutch and crank
180-200 hp = STRAIGHT CUT GEARS
then you might get a long happy life

ozman

i have made over 200 turbo HP...mid 8's with helical gears but the basket needed inspected weekly(drag bike).
on one of those inspections i found 2 of the 3 welds broken.
straight cuts after that.

[rapidray]

On a street tire bike a helical geared motor is fine up to about 180 HP. Put a slick on it & its a WHOLE different story! My point was that a WELDED stock crank will handle the power. This thread started with him wanting 140-150 HP & that's what I was referring to. Ray.

[ozman]

On a street tire bike a helical geared motor is fine up to about 180 HP. Put a slick on it & its a WHOLE different story! My point was that a WELDED stock crank will handle the power. This thread started with him wanting 140-150 HP & that's what I was referring to. Ray.

your having another bout of isclb are you ray

ozman

[blowerbike]

the op also wanted to spend a grand for 40 hp...
nope...ain't gonna happen..
a grand won't get much unless you buy used and do the work yourself.
that's why i suggested cams and carbs(used) to get near half of the hp he wanted.

[ozman]

the op also wanted to spend a grand for 40 hp...
nope...ain't gonna happen..
a grand won't get much unless you buy used and do the work yourself.
that's why i suggested cams and carbs(used) to get near half of the hp he wanted.

yup your on the mark there blower

[CivilRock]

the op also wanted to spend a grand for 40 hp...
nope...ain't gonna happen..
a grand won't get much unless you buy used and do the work yourself.
that's why i suggested cams and carbs(used) to get near half of the hp he wanted.

I'm willing to do the work myself. Actually, I'd rather do the work myself. I like to learn, even if it means making some mistakes along the way.

Maybe I should state how this bike will be ridden? 99% street. Maybe one time per summer on the drag strip for fun. I just want to play with the bike, tinker around with it, etc. It would be too easy just to hand it over to a builder and throw a bunch of cash at it. I want to just plan out my attack, and the order it should happen.

I don't think straight cut gears are going to be necessary from the sounds of it.

40HP $1,000 ----- I think this is a NO. Maybe $1500?

pre-power work
Welded crank: $150 at a local engine builder?
Welded clutch basket: by the looks of it, I can do this myself.


1168 pistons, 348 cams, springs - $1104 gszone?
75mm bore: $150?
used 750 36 carbs: $150?

Ok, so I'm already up to $1554.
Does that 1168 kit from gszone come with the head gasket?

We'll have to see what I can dig up for having work done locally.

Thanks for all the input.

[blowerbike]

factory carbs won't make the biggest #'s
the rs miks are the way to go.
also the basket job is not as easy as you may think.
the carbs and cams i recommended would need to be tuned by an experienced tuner unless you have many days/months/years to learn the trade.
IMO
i'd stay with the stock pistons and head...work with what you have.
also the crank will be fine for the 20 ish hp i recommend.
the basket has to be done though.
understand your bike only makes 89hp at the rear wheel stock.
any other #'s you see posted is at the crank and totally useless info.
i'm thinking you can get 115 give or take a couple hp with the parts and tuning i mentioned.
now if you want 140-150hp at the rear wheel be ready to spend 3500.00 and up to get it.
probably over 4 grand.

[gearhead13]

The crank needs to be welded by someone who knows GS cranks. It has to be checked for proper indexing before welding. You also have a small taper crank that is known to spin rotors off.
HD DIY clutch basket kits cost $190 IIRC from APE.

[CivilRock]

factory carbs won't make the biggest #'s
the rs miks are the way to go.
also the basket job is not as easy as you may think.
the carbs and cams i recommended would need to be tuned by an experienced tuner unless you have many days/months/years to learn the trade.
IMO
i'd stay with the stock pistons and head...work with what you have.
also the crank will be fine for the 20 ish hp i recommend.
the basket has to be done though.
understand your bike only makes 89hp at the rear wheel stock.
any other #'s you see posted is at the crank and totally useless info.
i'm thinking you can get 115 give or take a couple hp with the parts and tuning i mentioned.
now if you want 140-150hp at the rear wheel be ready to spend 3500.00 and up to get it.
probably over 4 grand.

I guess the first step will be getting it ready to handle more power. Then maybe next summer I'll go for the next stage. 89hp is probably right. So you think carbs and cams are the biggest bang for the buck? I've always liked the saying "there's no replacement for displacement" That seems to make me lean for pistons 2nd, after welding the crank.

I spent weeks and weeks getting this bike running right. I don't know why it was so far off with just the different pipes, but I know how frustrating it is to tune the carbs. I'd probably test it about 20 times and then hand it over to someone who knows what they're doing.

I think this is where I stopped planning last time. $4,000 on a $500 bike doesn't make sense to me. I like to say this is my $500 bike, because I've bought it twice for $500.



2004 paid $500. It was purple and didn't run.
2006 I got it running, and put about $2500 into it. 1150 forks, GSXR1100 swingarm, wheels, brakes. SV650 rotors, black paint, and a bunch of odds and ends.
2009 Sold it for $1900 on the condition I was the first one to buy it back if he got sick of it.
2010 bought it back for $450 slightly crashed. +150 to fix crash damage. Now has a "reconstructed" title. (he got $2700 and the bike from insurance).

I guess I have about $1700 into the bike.

[blowerbike]

to weld the crank takes a full disassemble/reassembly...
huge undertaking plus while it's apart you get the trans back cut and a new cam chain and maybe new seals....it's never ending.
used cams and 34/36mm RS miks and a HD clutch basket will get you some power for a grand give or take.
it is what it is...
you would be better off to save your cash and find a trustworthy person selling a hot rod engine at half value.
hell an 1150 engine and a set of 36 RS carbs will make you thing you have a much larger engine.
add a set of .340 webs to the 1150 engine and you will have a handful.
i had the combo mentioned running 9.90's on a heavy chassis and no air shifter/no bars.
same engine went into a small tire drag bike with a heavy rider and ran 9.50's.
1150 engines are amazing when tuned right with stock piston's and head.
when you have no money like me years ago...you work with what you have and tune tune tune...sometimes you go slower till figure out what the engine likes.
my bikes was quicker than others that had pistons and head work.
they had money to pay a shop to do the work...i didn't.
so there you have it......

[CivilRock]

you would be better off to save your cash and find a trustworthy person selling a hot rod engine at half value.

I think this could be the kind of deal that I'm looking for. "trustworthy" would be a tough qualification.

my bikes was quicker than others that had pistons and head work.
they had money to pay a shop to do the work...i didn't.
so there you have it......

That's hero's work.

-Kevin

[blowerbike]

keep in mind the 1150 engine option.
if you was to happen across one then you have your silver engine that is worth 600ish...there is some offset.
the 1150 engine with cams and carbs will shock you and not break your wallet and have very good reliability.

[gearhead13]

I think this could be the kind of deal that I'm looking for. "trustworthy" would be a tough qualification.

-Kevin

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