GS1100EZ - 40hp for $1,000?

[rapidray]

Keep in mind that you could always pick up an 83 1100 or 84-86 1150 motor, both of which have factory welded cranks & will handle 160 hp effortlessly, & just keep riding your bike as is while you take your time to build a motor as your finances allow. You can also be upgrading your suspension & brakes while you are building the spare engine. Ray.

[gs11ezrydr]

The crank in your pics don't seem to be welded. You can see a few welds on this crank to get an idea of where they are welded at.

If you or anyone is needing a nice welded crank small tapered left end,this one in the attachment is for sale minus the starter clutch and rotor. It came out of a good running 1327 street motor and was never ran with a wheelie bar, slick, or extended swing arm. Index was checked and is straight. Have a couple more pics if needed.PM me if any questions,

[Montanaman]

For a street bike he shouldn't have to weld the crank just for the big bore kit / Dynojet kit, should he ?

I haven't opened up my '83 yet, so I'm no expert, but if the GS responds the same or better than the Kawi engines, if he bumps up the compression, increases the displacement, and Dynojet tunes the carbs, with the pipe he has that he should be pushing maybe another 20 hp at the wheel, with nice, premium fuel from the pump street manners. The GS is strong enough to handle another 20hp, isn't it without breaking ?

[rapidray]

For a street bike he shouldn't have to weld the crank just for the big bore kit / Dynojet kit, should he ?

I haven't opened up my '83 yet, so I'm no expert, but if the GS responds the same or better than the Kawi engines, if he bumps up the compression, increases the displacement, and Dynojet tunes the carbs, with the pipe he has that he should be pushing maybe another 20 hp at the wheel, with nice, premium fuel from the pump street manners. The GS is strong enough to handle another 20hp, isn't it without breaking ?

It is EASY to twist a non welded GS crank in just a STOCK motor. It used to happen all the time in the early 80s. A welded crank is a MUST for ANY modifications to a roller bearing 1100 engine. Your 83 has a welded crank. Ray.

[jimb12]

It is EASY to twist a non welded GS crank in just a STOCK motor.

Very true. When I bought my GS1100 it was stock except for a VHR pipe, and the crank was twisted (1982 EZ model).

[CivilRock]

I'm just now re-reading this whole thread. I think I like the idea of buying an 1150 motor and tweaking that. Both "Blower Bike" and "RapidRay" make a lot of sense with the spare motor idea.

I just scratched out some numbers with ballpark figures for comparison. I don't know how much a guy could buy an 1150 motor for?

Build 1100
$700 RS36 carbs
$400 .340 webs
$550 1168cc kit
$150 75mm Bore
$300 Welded Crank
$300 Head work, porting
$300 Welded Clutch Basket
$2700

Vs Buy 1150
$700 RS36 carbs
$400 .340 webs
$1000 1150 motor
$2100

From what Blowerbike says (sorry I don't know your real name), this 1150 combo produces a sub-10 second bike? That's gotta be better than what my 1170cc plans were going to do, for less. What do you guys think these two different paths would net for HP?

If I can get $600 for a stock 1048cc "1100EZ" motor, what should I pay for a stock 1150 motor? is $1,000 ballpark? I suppose that's an open ended question. I'll just have to watch craigslist and see if I can find a steal.

-Kevin

[rapidray]

Just so you know, you will have better luck buying an 1150 from Canada as 1150 motors usually go for 1500 or so. The cases alone are worth 700-1000 as new cases are 1700! 1150 heads go for 300-500 also. Just to give you an idea what you are up against. It is EASY to get 140 HP @ the rear wheel with an 1170 & you could buy another 1100 motor a LOT cheaper than an 1150 motor. I am just trying to make you aware of what you are looking at in trying to buy an 1150 motor. Even still, you may get lucky & find one from someone that doesn't know what they are worth but that is getting harder every day. Good luck whichever way you decide. Ray.

[blowerbike]

who is going to do the labor on a complete dis-reassembly?
i got 500 over 20 years ago..
for the handful of people i still do work for i still charge the same 500.
i see complete 1150's for a grand an under from time to time.
what's an 83 black motor worth/selling for?
if you go silver engine then you'll have the small left side problems that cost a lot to convert to the 83 1100/1150 spec.
my point is............1150 engine...used .340 webs..HD basket...and...
the special tuning of the cams and carbs.
on either engine you want cams/carbs/HD basket so these all cancel each other out.
so here is some simple math...
if you buy a good 1150 engine for a grand...then all you spend is a grand..see what i mean???


added...
the 1150 package in a street chassis is not a sub 10 second package...neither is the 1168 package.
weight is a killer plus the riders weight and his abilities..

[RacingJake]

A Katana 750 dot head with a few mods, G4 cams and 14/48 sprockets should wake it up. Less than 500 ebay bucks and you should get more than 20 hp.

[blowerbike]

he will still have a silver engine with a non welded crank and a small left side that will fail sooner or later.

[tom]

i paid 700 for my 1150 motor with one bent valve . sent the head to jd to get ported next im buying piston , then under cut trany

[Montanaman]

blowerbike - that ($500) is very reasonable labor on your part for that job - If I wanted to make my GS a monster I'd be begging you to work for me.

I guess the least expensive way to run high 10's would be to sell a good GS1100 and buy a good GS1150 - good deals show up once in a while.

[Dalton1]

I have read the GS resources for many years and there is a great deal of knowledge here. Being a GS rider and racer for many years, I also appreciate it.

If you were looking for a street legal, high 9 second bike, I am posting my 1978 GS1000E for sale there today. 1238cc, VHR head, 40 Mikuni's etc, etc.

[RacingJake]

he will still have a silver engine with a non welded crank and a small left side that will fail sooner or later.

I've never had a small end fail or twist on me after thousands of runs with bar or no bar with a 7" slick on me in the past 10 years. It's always a bearing letting go first. The only time I had a twisted crank is when someone sold me a "good" crank and upon inspection I noticed it was twisted.

Now I have busted the ring gear off an oem basket before

[blowerbike]

I've never had a small end fail or twist on me after thousands of runs with bar or no bar with a 7" slick on me in the past 10 years. It's always a bearing letting go first. The only time I had a twisted crank is when someone sold me a "good" crank and upon inspection I noticed it was twisted.

Now I have busted the ring gear off an oem basket before

yes the side load is crazy and i have seen the toothed part/gear actually break.
also seen a lot of crank throws myself and working for pearson with deep tooth imprints...pretty ugly and shocking knowing the basket will flex that much with a helical gear....bad stuff.
one other thing on the big valve head would be a valve pocket issue with stock pistons...just saying...lol


added
i can make a small left side live but i have never had a customer listen to what i told them about the abuse to avoid.
it can work for me and you but from my experience the average person can break a rock.
the big left side is just insurance but they still go through S/C bolts and assorted S/C parts.