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Hone cylinders when reusing old rings?

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    #16
    This engine has 10k miles on it. Pistons look good so sealing seems decent.

    New rings are $45/hole + shipping.

    I ordered a ball hone today and plan to reuse the rings. Worst case is the engine gets torn down twice. Bought a brand new OEM head and base gasket for same price as one set of rings. Worst case is this is a $45 gamble.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #17
      To measure the ring's end gap and tension you need to remove them. I can see just going by the fact that it's low miles, but who knows, the PO could have never changed the oil, ran it without an air filter, perhaps ran it 110,000 miles. If you are willing to risk pulling the head again, which is really easy if it hasn't been run much, go for it. I'd rather pull the rings off to inspect them. Ray's point is a valid one, rings are more than some parts but not really a bank breaker.

      There was someone on this forum selling inexpensive piston rings a few months ago, do you remember that thread?


      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #18
        Ed, if you actually do end up re-doing the top end, you can pull the cylinder block and install it without pulling the engine out of the frame. In fact, when you go back together, I highly recommend installing the cylinder block after bolting the cases into the frame. One man job due to the lighter weight, a lot more clearance.

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          #19
          Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
          Yes there is a tool for removing the carbon/ metal build up at the top of the cylinders. It's called a ridge reamer.
          I knew someone would have the answer! It's been a few decades since I've had an engine that would even need something like that (my Ducati has plated bores), but I had a vague recollection of something...
          '07 Yamaha TTR 250 - Exercycle.
          '95 Ducati 900 SL - Duclattery
          '81 Suzuki/Yoshi GSX1135 ET/X - Yoshi
          '84 Suzuki McIntosh - Mac
          '74 Yamaha YZ125A - pain in the rrr's...

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            #20
            And a word of advice, use a good quality break in oil after a rebuild or after a fresh top end.
            I made the mistake of running regular oil after I rebuilt my 375 HP 327 years back. I went through it top to bottom with new everything, and I put 10W40 oil off the shelf in it, and drove it. Rings never seated, and I wiped out the cam after less than 50 miles.
            After that EVERY time I rebuilt an engine, no matter if it was a bike or ATV engine, or a car engine, I put break in oil in it, and went by the manufacturers specs, and haven't had a failure yet.
            And yes I know oil is a lot better than back then, but it's still good practice to do it right the first time. That way there is no need for a teardown.

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              #21
              Originally posted by MrFreeze60 View Post
              And a word of advice, use a good quality break in oil after a rebuild or after a fresh top end.
              I made the mistake of running regular oil after I rebuilt my 375 HP 327 years back. I went through it top to bottom with new everything, and I put 10W40 oil off the shelf in it, and drove it. Rings never seated, and I wiped out the cam after less than 50 miles.
              After that EVERY time I rebuilt an engine, no matter if it was a bike or ATV engine, or a car engine, I put break in oil in it, and went by the manufacturers specs, and haven't had a failure yet.
              And yes I know oil is a lot better than back then, but it's still good practice to do it right the first time. That way there is no need for a teardown.
              Old type American V8's are known to wipe out cams if you don't break them in carefully. High zinc/phosphorus oil never hurts.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #22
                I thought the bores had taper, were out of round, and had the funny wear pattern? A ball will not fix any of that.
                Okay, no more comments.
                G
                sigpic1983 1100 Katana - soon to be turbo Busa powered.
                2007 GSXR1K-Sold-But not forgotten.
                Have 2X ZG14 engine's for '81 GS750E project.
                '82 GS750E frame is TITLED awaiting GSXR1127/12B engine and '81 1100E slowly being built.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by gmansyz View Post
                  I thought the bores had taper, were out of round, and had the funny wear pattern? A ball will not fix any of that.
                  No but if the rings seal it will run fine anyway, at least for a while. All of the high mileage bikes going down the road probably have similar bores. Most of them run fine.


                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #24
                    What kind of a hone is needed if all I want to do is de-glaze and cross hatch some nicasil cylinders. I am installing some new rings in a 2004 gsx-r 1000. I have all the Sunnen hones you mentioned and I tried using them and they won't even start to make a mark on these hard plated bores. What's your solution to this problem? I have tried purchasing some ball hones for nicasil cyls and were either out of stock or went on back order from Goodson supply. Do you know another place to get them? I have used #80 grit emery cloth with minimal results in some dirt bike engines I have rebuilt. But with a lot of time and patience I was barely able to scratch the surface some. I tried to start a new thread about this matter but the site would not let me this was my next best alternative. Sorry if I'm a bit off subject.
                    Last edited by gs11ezrydr; 04-26-2015, 03:52 AM.
                    sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

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