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    GS 2 valve top end oiler kit

    never seen one on a 2 valve GS before,always wondered if it would work.
    This one has the oil feed galleries blocked off at the base gasket and the cams rely purely on the top end oiler. would this supply enough oil to the cams?

    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    #2
    should be more than enough, but dam ugly, Top fin shaved and stuff and be no running oil coolers like a 4 valve head as plumbing at the pressure switch be a nitemare

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      #3
      Can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. The 2V engines don't have cam oiling issues, so going to this much work to reroute the oil doesn't add much value though.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Agemax View Post
        never seen one on a 2 valve GS before,always wondered if it would work.
        This one has the oil feed galleries blocked off at the base gasket and the cams rely purely on the top end oiler. would this supply enough oil to the cams?

        Yes. It would just be replacing the old feed lines. As Nessism said no real reason to do it with a standard lump.

        There is a lot going off on this motor by the looks of it. The injectors on the manifolds, flatslides, and the welded mods to the top of the crankcases, suggests to me there is something large in the barrels. Might be the reason the oil feeds are blocked off, or a head off a larger lump that needs a new oil feed lines.

        I saw something similar on a Z900 drag bike once. There the starter motor had been removed and an additional oil pump plugged in. This provided the oil to the head only, using the standard oil ways as in the photo, and additional lines made from microbore with jets tapped into the top cover above each cam lobe.

        What can you tell us about the photo?

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          #5
          all i know is its a 1270cc with heavy duty top end internals, modified GS750 clutch, with lock up, Falicon crank. belongs to a guy on OSS. 200bhp without the gas and runs 8.6's all day long (without gas)
          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Agemax View Post
            all i know is its a 1270cc with heavy duty top end internals, modified GS750 clutch, with lock up, Falicon crank. belongs to a guy on OSS. 200bhp without the gas and runs 8.6's all day long (without gas)
            Looking at it again it didn't start life as a 750 (clutch actuator arm position). Also the direction the oil feed line comes from leads me to think its something like the Z900 I was on about.

            Basically with the excessive power, the original oil pumps job is reduced to taking care of the crank only, by blocking the feed lines to the head. Then a secondary oil pump is placed in the starter motor housing, taking its drive directly off the crank where the starter motor slip gear would normally sit. This provides an increased oil pressure feed to the cam clamps to minimise any risk of them overheating.

            Maybe the welding work on the crankcase is the new oil feed into the secondary oil pump. Just guessing here.
            Jo

            Comment


              #7
              it is a GS1000 motor. the top end oil feed is coming from the oil pressure plate, same as normal GS motors. the welded "mod" on top the crankcase is to accomodate the bigger GS750 clutch, apparantly
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #8
                The main reason for the external cam oilers on 2 valve engines is to keep oil out of the cylinder block. You can block off the oil feed from the cases to keep oil out of the stud bores. Likewise you plug the ports in the head to keep the oil out of the stud bores. It is called dry blocking. The engine probably uses the GS750 primary drive straight cut gears on the clutch basket and crankshaft. It uses a lower ratio at 2.15 vs. the GS1000/1100 ratio of 1.78. However the clutch gear is larger diameter at 99 teeth vs. the 89 teeth of the stock gear. Therefore the cases had to be cleared to fit the gear. That would be the welded area on the top of the case. Dar

                Comment


                  #9
                  Agemax beat me to it while I was typing...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                    it is a GS1000 motor. the top end oil feed is coming from the oil pressure plate, same as normal GS motors. the welded "mod" on top the crankcase is to accomodate the bigger GS750 clutch, apparantly
                    Thanks for the extra info. That would explain the crankcase mod. Be interested to know about the oil take off. Presumably he's modded the plate as i can't see a bolt on oil cooler style take off. Poor eyes, hangover and dodgy monitor lol

                    As to why bother? Well if there's no reason to block off the internal feeds I really can't see the point.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Why bother ? When you do an extreme big bore often the gasket area isn't sufficient even with O ringing to keep the oil inside the block so dry head and base joints help.
                      Same when big HP from NO2 or blowing....the head and block are going to move around and dry joints keep things much tidier.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by GregT View Post
                        Why bother ? When you do an extreme big bore often the gasket area isn't sufficient even with O ringing to keep the oil inside the block so dry head and base joints help.
                        Same when big HP from NO2 or blowing....the head and block are going to move around and dry joints keep things much tidier.
                        Well I learned something. Thanx

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by GregT View Post
                          Why bother ? When you do an extreme big bore often the gasket area isn't sufficient even with O ringing to keep the oil inside the block so dry head and base joints help.
                          Same when big HP from NO2 or blowing....the head and block are going to move around and dry joints keep things much tidier.

                          Yeah, running the oil up passages in the cylinder heats the oil and increases the chance for a leak. A good many bike engines run oil up to the top of the head via external hoses, such as the third gen. 750, which improves this situation.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            the engine is running stock oil pump with GS750 gears
                            1978 GS1085.

                            Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I have a GS 1000 motor with a Falicon crank in it, with straight cut gears and I didn't have to modify my cases like that for fitment of the clutch basket/gear... It was a modified 1100 4V crankshaft to fit in a 2V motor (longer stroke)....I think he (Tom), just used the 1100 gear on the crank. I also used a forged clutch basket (from MTC) for the GS1100 with the gear already on it.... What kind of clutch basket is in it ???.... I hope not a stocker.... Billy

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