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    Night of hell. Chaos.

    So .......

    Supposed to have spent today with my 1979 GS425 rebuilding and remounting carbs, putting the [tubed] front tire on, pulling the old and stripped studs/nuts on the oil filter cover to be replaced as well as installing the new filer. Then ... chaos.

    Carbs rebuilt, check. Mount new tire onto front rim - fail. 1/8 left of the tire left to go and I hear "hisssssss" as I pop the inner tube. The tires are only supposed to be run tubed. I have to get a new tube.

    Okay, I say. I will replace the oil filter. I do so before deciding to top off the oil. Okay. I forgot I had one liter in there and overfilled, so removed the oil drain bolt to drain a bit. As it drains, shards of metal come out. I slip and fall in the oil. The metal is from the threads on the oil drain plug hole. They are done for. I will have to probably pull the oil pan and rethread the hole with an upsized plug. Fine.

    Well, the carbs are on. Lets put it back together and listen to my work, I say. Wrestle with the stock air box and finally get it in. Mount the battery housing. Prime the carbs. Continue to inspect the oil issue.

    Five minutes later I smell gas. Oops! Forgot to stop priming the carbs. They are flooded. Gasoline is leaking into the air box. It is probably also in the crankcase, and in my engine. I drop my tools and swear. Leave it for another night.

    This was supposed to be an easy surgery. I have had time to cool off. This is what I would like to do.

    1) Forget the current setup and scrap the entire stock air system, replacing with neat K&N pods. I realize I will have to rejet to do this. I do not mind. If anyone has input on this (K&N pods to use and corresponding jet numbers) PLEASE get in touch with me. I realize that there is a hose coming from the top end (a breather) that is connected to the air box. What should I do with this?

    2) Rework the entire electrical system. The R/R and starter are currently mounted to the airbox. I will have to put them somewhere else. Has anyone else done this? My upgraded SH-775 R/R is on the way as well as a corresponding Triumph harness. With this in mind, can anyone tell me where to start? Money is not really an issue at this point. I will spend what I must to get it done.

    3) I have never run tubed tires before. Ever This is new to me. What am I looking for in a .... tube?

    Additional questions: There are two nipples on the inner side of each carb pointing downwards - not the ones in the float bowl that connect the two carbs. I believe the ones I'm asking about are breathers, but am not sure. Anyone?

    I am hitting a wall. What should have been a simple project just became a full rebuild. Garh. Comments welcome.

    GSP

    #2
    That all sounds normal in my garage........

    Comment


      #3
      Little trick on tubes. Take out the shrader valve and expand them once they are inside the tire. This straightens them and takes out any folds. This will also help them NOT get pinched in the rim while infalting.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        Nipples should be where you attach vent lines which need to be run behind carbs and down towards bottom of bike. terrylee

        Comment


          #5
          Step 1: Breathe. Been there. Hated it. Good on you for walking away before you made it all worse.

          Step 2: Do it like you're eating an elephant. Sounds like you were trying to 'fix' (get working) too many issues at the same time. Again, Been there. Live there sometimes.

          Airbox change: Coming from someone with pods, I wouldn't do it. Stick with stock, it's designed like that for a reason. At least until everything else is perfect and you're hunting for something else to do on the bike.

          Electrical: That SSPB looks like just the ticket if you're doing an electrical rebuild. It solves a bunch of problems you don't even know you have and if you're already doing the harness change you might as well just do it all at once.

          Tubes: No idea. I hand my wheel to the guy with the little shop down the road and a couple hours later he trades it back with a mounted tire and a fresh tube for a $20 bill. I ride happy and he buys himself a case of good beer.

          Hope this helps. The real trick is to just take it all one step at a time. Slow down as you approach the end of a job so you don't get excited and rush, it was the forgetting about the priming carbs that really did you in and that was a matter of trying to multitask.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            Little trick on tubes. Take out the shrader valve and expand them once they are inside the tire. This straightens them and takes out any folds. This will also help them NOT get pinched in the rim while infalting.
            Did this. I'm testifying that while it may help them 'NOT' get pinched, they can still get pinched easily.

            Originally posted by terrylee
            Nipples should be where you attach vent lines which need to be run behind carbs and down towards bottom of bike. terrylee
            Thanks. This is what I thought but wasn't entirely sure.

            Originally posted by Griffyn
            Electrical: That SSPB looks like just the ticket if you're doing an electrical rebuild. It solves a bunch of problems you don't even know you have and if you're already doing the harness change you might as well just do it all at once.
            The SSPB? What's that? Also, after about twelve hours of sleep, I'm feeling much more level again.

            Comment


              #7
              GS Suzuki air boxes are designed to give the carb bank a decent supply of "dead air" to draw from. Going to pods allows for variations from crosswinds, etc to that air supply. No matter how good I got my 1100 to run, (and it did), it wasn't consistently great because of varying turbulence around the pods. They're ok on bikes I don't worry about all around performance on, but I never liked them on my daily street fighter. I'd use them in a heartbeat on a dedicated drag bike.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by wymple View Post
                GS Suzuki air boxes are designed to give the carb bank a decent supply of "dead air" to draw from. Going to pods allows for variations from crosswinds, etc to that air supply. No matter how good I got my 1100 to run, (and it did), it wasn't consistently great because of varying turbulence around the pods. They're ok on bikes I don't worry about all around performance on, but I never liked them on my daily street fighter. I'd use them in a heartbeat on a dedicated drag bike.
                I guess I am sick of fighting with the air box. Also, the PO looks like he might have mangled up the front portion of it (right behind where the boots connect to the carbs) as the rubber is all wavy looking. Even if I get it all installed properly it will absolutely have to be sealed. If this is the route I go, do you have any recommendations on a sealant for the air box?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gspower View Post
                  The SSPB? What's that? Also, after about twelve hours of sleep, I'm feeling much more level again.
                  Solid State Power Box. The invention by one of our fellow GSResources forum members that replaces the fuse block and a bunch of needlessly complex wiring with a single modern controller.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Griffyn View Post
                    Solid State Power Box. The invention by one of our fellow GSResources forum members that replaces the fuse block and a bunch of needlessly complex wiring with a single modern controller.
                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=210261
                    My biggest concern with this is I know NOTHING about how to install it. Also, I've never seen a fuse box on my GS425. That indicates a problem to me as either A) There is no need for it or B) I am too incompetent to start this.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      When you pull your oil pan off, have a threaded steel insert installed. Make sure you use an OEM pan gasket, not one of the knock offs on Ebay. No more worries of ever stripping again. A self threading drain plug is just a band aid.
                      Last edited by mrbill5491; 05-02-2014, 12:03 PM.
                      sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                      1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                      2015 CAN AM RTS


                      Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        One more pic from the bottom side. All you have to do now is locate a plug to fit the threads and a copper crush washer. I've been going to NAPA for the those.
                        sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                        1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                        2015 CAN AM RTS


                        Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          A heat gun on the air box rubbers and intake hoses along with spray dry silicone works wonders on airbox assembly. You'll be amazed what a difference it makes. I made a small L shaped tool (about 3/8" with a 6" handle) out of coat hanger wire to help wiggle the rubbers on. A miserable job made tolerable!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by gspower View Post
                            My biggest concern with this is I know NOTHING about how to install it. Also, I've never seen a fuse box on my GS425. That indicates a problem to me as either A) There is no need for it or B) I am too incompetent to start this.
                            The early machines only had a single main fuse, so you do need to add fuse box. I did the same. Route the main power through the box and then as you add mods such as horn relay, coil relay, headlamp relay and ignition relay do the same.
                            -Mal

                            "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                            ___________

                            78 GS750E

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by allojohn View Post
                              I did the same. Route the main power through the box and then as you add mods such as horn relay, coil relay, headlamp relay and ignition relay do the same.
                              Just curious, how did you divide up the existing circuits?

                              I'm doing the same to a 550.

                              Thanks,
                              Tom
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

                              Comment

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