1150 motor and a lot of vibration 5,000+ RPM

[CivilRock]

Ray, you are right. Thanks.

The adjustment is so so slight, like 1/32nd of a turn on the adjuster. I think if I took them off the bike and rechecked the mechanical spec, it would still be perfect. Taking off the caps while it was running seemed to make no difference in the reading at all. Just to make sure, I would make an adjustment and then put the cap back on. Only removing one cap at a time to make adjustments. But again, it seemed to make no difference. I even just used my palm to cover the top and watch the gauge and no difference.

I can see how these might fall out of adjustment over time. The way the set screws and lock nuts work are just like adjusting valves, and I can see how they'd get out of whack being slammed closed hundreds of times.

I only adjusted 1 and 4, and by then 2 had dropped in line. I quit when they were all within 1 cm on my gauges. Idle was cleaner and there's noticeably less vibration at idle and just wicking the throttle. It's raining today, so a road test will have to wait.

Experience trumps the written manual.

-Kevin

This pic is my initial readings. I got them all within 1 cm and called it good.

[UncleMike]

Ray, you are right. Thanks.

The adjustment is so so slight, like 1/32nd of a turn on the adjuster. I think if I took them off the bike and rechecked the mechanical spec, it would still be perfect. Taking off the caps while it was running seemed to make no difference in the reading at all. Just to make sure, I would make an adjustment and then put the cap back on. Only removing one cap at a time to make adjustments. But again, it seemed to make no difference. I even just used my palm to cover the top and watch the gauge and no difference.

I only adjusted 1 and 4, and by then 2 had dropped in line. I quit when they were all within 1 cm on my gauges. Idle was cleaner and there's noticeably less vibration at idle and just wicking the throttle. It's raining today, so a road test will have to wait.

Experience trumps the written manual.

-Kevin

This pic is my initial readings. I got them all within 1 cm and called it good.

If that was your initial, you'll definitely notice a difference. What RPM did you sync at?

[CivilRock]

If that was your initial, you'll definitely notice a difference. What RPM did you sync at?

I'm not sure. That pic was at idle. I don't think my Bandit 400 tach that is driven off the Dyna 2000 lead is very accurate. It indicates about 800-900 at idle. I turned it up just a little to maybe 1500 just so the mercury didn't bounce around so much.

Half way through I had to re-fill my temporary fuel source and I got out my fan because the motor was getting hot.

It will be easy to tell if there's an improvement. I don't expect all the vibration to go away, just hoping for less.

[UncleMike]

I'm not sure. That pic was at idle. I don't think my Bandit 400 tach that is driven off the Dyna 2000 lead is very accurate. It indicates about 800-900 at idle. I turned it up just a little to maybe 1500 just so the mercury didn't bounce around so much.

Half way through I had to re-fill my temp fuel source and I got out my fan because the motor was getting hot.

It will be easy to tell if there's an improvement. I don't expect all the vibration to go away, just hoping for less.

Try syncing where the vibration is worst.

[CivilRock]

Try syncing where the vibration is worst.

I'll do that next time, but I was kind of nervous about holding my bike at 7,000 RPM and trying to adjust it. I'm going to go out and test it this way first.

I didn't know if this setup would suck the mercury into the engine. I don't think my little box fan is strong enough to keep the engine cool. I didn't want to draw (more) attention to myself in the neighborhood.

[UncleMike]

I'll do that next time, but I was kind of nervous about holding my bike at 7,000 RPM and trying to adjust it. I'm going to go out and test it this way first.

I didn't know if this setup would suck the mercury into the engine. I don't think my little fan is strong enough to keep the engine cool. I didn't want to draw (more) attention to myself in the neighborhood.

I was thinking more around 4500rpm. My vibrations only really show between 4-5k.

[CivilRock]

I need more seat time to figure out exactly where the vibration is the worst. 4-5k is very much in line with a lot of the complaints that I found here and on the web.

Do you sync with dial gauges or mercury sticks?
Am I going to suck mercury into the motor at 4500 RPM?

[UncleMike]

I need more seat time to figure out exactly where the vibration is the worst. 4-5k is very much in line with a lot of the complaints that I found here and on the web.

Do you sync with dial gauges or mercury sticks?
Am I going to suck mercury into the motor at 4500 RPM?

I use a Carbtune with sticks, but I've previously used a Motionpro with the liquid mercury on at least 5 other GS models, and I've never had it come even close to sucking the mercury in.

[CivilRock]

Am I going to suck mercury into the motor at 4500 RPM?

I'm going to answer my own question. The vacuum is the most when you rev up the engine and shut the throttle. So as long as you don't do that with the sticks hooked up, you should be fine.

I've done this before on a dozen bikes, I just always question myself.

-Kevin

[CivilRock]

I use a Carbtune with sticks, but I've previously used a Motionpro with the liquid mercury on at least 5 other GS models, and I've never had it come even close to sucking the mercury in.

When I was adjusting them this morning, at first I turned #4 about a 1/4 turn and the mercury went right to the top of the glass (plastic). I don't think it would be the end of the world if it happened, but I don't really want to run it through the engine.

There's probably less vacuum at 4500 than at 700.

[UncleMike]

When I was adjusting them this morning, at first I turned #4 about a 1/4 turn and the mercury went right to the top of the glass (plastic). I don't think it would be the end of the world if it happened, but I don't really want to run it through the engine.

There's probably less vacuum at 4500 than at 700.

Never thought I'd say this, but perhaps I have a more gentle touch than I thought?

[CivilRock]

I started gently, but then I wanted a definite indicator of which way was which... and I got it.

Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I really have less than 400 miles on this motor, and most of that has been accumulated on the 6 mile journey to work.

When you sync at 4500 does the bike get super hot? Are you syncing RS carbs? Did the sync at 4500 help with the vibration?

Sorry about the 20 questions.

[GS1150Pilot]

Man, I must be older school than I thought. I have no issue with the vibes of the 1150. Granted, my carbs are very well synch'd right now, but the bike has never struck me as being vibey.

[UncleMike]

I started gently, but then I wanted a definite indicator of which way was which... and I got it.

Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I really have less than 400 miles on this motor, and most of that has been accumulated on the 6 mile journey to work.

When you sync at 4500 does the bike get super hot? Are you syncing RS carbs? Did the sync at 4500 help with the vibration?

Sorry about the 20 questions.

The bike never seems to get super hot, even when riding in 100-degree heat in traffic. As long as I can get some air moving over it, things seem to stay relatively cool. Dropping a fan on there while you sink should do the trick, and it really doesn't take long to sync once you get the hang of it. Setup and teardown is much longer. If you're familiar with your bike/setup, the actually process of syncing with the engine running can be done in about as much time as a traffic light.

Stock carbs here. And syncing where the vibration is worst definitely helps me. I sync up there and then see how it's running at idle. Sometimes there's a bit of compromise here, but I just go with whatever works best for my riding.

[CivilRock]

...the actual process of syncing with the engine running can be done in about as much time as a traffic light.

Hummmm. Not the way I was doing it.

I think I should just take all the caps off and sync them. That would make it quicker.

I'm going to get some seat time and reconsider.

There's got to be some inherent reason the 1150 vibrates more than its predecessor. Suzuki added rubber engine mounts in the front, and those big bar end weights for a reason, eh? And I'm sure every bike is different.