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GS1000 Frame Bracing Templates?

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    GS1000 Frame Bracing Templates?

    Folks,

    I'm interested in adding some bracing to my stock 1978 GS1000E frame before it goes to the powdercoater.

    Does anyone know of some templates/engineering drawings for bracing on the aforementioned frame?

    Specifically, I'm interested in items "B" and "C" (reference attached photo)

    Thanks!
    Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
    René Descartes

    #2
    Originally posted by philosopheriam View Post
    Folks,

    I'm interested in adding some bracing to my stock 1978 GS1000E frame before it goes to the powdercoater.

    Does anyone know of some templates/engineering drawings for bracing on the aforementioned frame?

    Specifically, I'm interested in items "B" and "C" (reference attached photo)

    Thanks!
    I have never seen anybody post templates, but there are plenty of pictures of frame bracing (do a search); use my name as a parameter, I know I started and/or added a lot to a thread while investigating this. A member named Tone is an expert, but have not seen him post lately.
    . Some better than others. You should decide what bracing you want to do first, then the templates will be easy.

    This one for example. Bracing will depend on upon what you want to do. For example for the street, stiffening the box around the swing arm bolt and the "C" area are the primary things to do. A,B,F less so.

    This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.
    Last edited by posplayr; 07-10-2014, 10:18 PM.

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      #3
      I was curious about templates because item "C", if made too large or welded in the incorrect location, could make removing/installing the engine quite difficult.

      "D" would prevent use of the stock airbox - I'm not sure I care about that, but I have to look closer to see if it would interfere with the installation of the battery box.

      "E" also looks like a good idea, but once again, not sure if it would interfere with anything.
      Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
      René Descartes

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by philosopheriam View Post
        I was curious about templates because item "C", if made too large or welded in the incorrect location, could make removing/installing the engine quite difficult.

        "D" would prevent use of the stock airbox - I'm not sure I care about that, but I have to look closer to see if it would interfere with the installation of the battery box.

        "E" also looks like a good idea, but once again, not sure if it would interfere with anything.
        Make card board cutouts and fit check all. Would you really trust anything else?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          Make card board cutouts and fit check all. Would you really trust anything else?
          Understood - to perform the work I will be taking the frame to a friend of a friend who owns a hot rod shop and specializes in tube fabrication.

          If you were to pick only TWO of these modifications, which ones would you choose.

          I was thinking C and E would be the best - your thoughts?
          Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
          René Descartes

          Comment


            #6
            IMO B + E is all you would need for road use. the rest will not be necessary unless you are planning on serious racing or drag racing
            1978 GS1085.

            Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Agemax View Post
              IMO B + E is all you would need for road use. the rest will not be necessary unless you are planning on serious racing or drag racing
              Hmm... if I was to do only ONE I thought C would be the most important, as it is a major area of flex for the frame.
              Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
              René Descartes

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by philosopheriam View Post
                Hmm... if I was to do only ONE I thought C would be the most important, as it is a major area of flex for the frame.
                it doesn't flex at that point as much as you think, any flex there will not affect any handling at all, its up front at the steering head and down by the swingarm pivot that is most noticeable.
                Saying that, unless you are Marquez or Rossi, i doubt you will notice any significant flex in the frame anyway, braced or not.
                1978 GS1085.

                Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by philosopheriam View Post
                  Hmm... if I was to do only ONE I thought C would be the most important, as it is a major area of flex for the frame.
                  Did you read what Tone posted? I can't add anything else to that true lay expert advice.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                    it doesn't flex at that point as much as you think, any flex there will not affect any handling at all, its up front at the steering head and down by the swingarm pivot that is most noticeable.
                    Saying that, unless you are Marquez or Rossi, i doubt you will notice any significant flex in the frame anyway, braced or not.
                    The distance between the center where C is and the headstock and swing arm that magnifies and deflection you see at C.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I did C, D and E. Forget about the stock air box if you you do D. Fitting the engine is a no issue with C. All I know is this turned my 1000 into the best handling one out of 3 so far. Running radials probably more than the frame work. BUT this thing has no tendency to wallow when pushed hard like the other ones did, even after they had all new bearings in the steering and swingarms.
                      Attached Files
                      1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
                      1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D

                      I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
                        I did C, D and E. Forget about the stock air box if you you do D. Fitting the engine is a no issue with C. All I know is this turned my 1000 into the best handling one out of 3 so far. Running radials probably more than the frame work. BUT this thing has no tendency to wallow when pushed hard like the other ones did, even after they had all new bearings in the steering and swingarms.
                        Fjb,

                        Did you run into *any* issues with tank fitment with respect to brace "C" - I don't have my tank nearby as it is currently at the painter.

                        Also, did you run into issues with master cylinder clearance with brace "E"

                        What materials did you use, as well? You wouldn't happen to have any measurements for placement, would you :-)

                        Thanks for letting me pick your brain
                        Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
                        René Descartes

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
                          I did C, D and E. Forget about the stock air box if you you do D. Fitting the engine is a no issue with C. All I know is this turned my 1000 into the best handling one out of 3 so far. Running radials probably more than the frame work. BUT this thing has no tendency to wallow when pushed hard like the other ones did, even after they had all new bearings in the steering and swingarms.
                          If I had an extra $1K, that is what I would do. Strip the frame, get it braced and then powdercoated. I don't have bracing on my GS with 18" radials, GSXR 41mm RSU forks/brace and a bandit swing arm and it is pretty stable but in hard cornering at say 80-90 mph it gets a little unsettling but nothing dramatic. In a straight line no issues.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            posplayr,

                            I've pretty much settled on "C" - my frame has to go to the welder anyway to have the welds re-done on the rear shock mount studs.

                            So, while the frame is there, I will have "C" done.
                            Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
                            René Descartes

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Here is my build, you will see fuel tank issue, very minor. I use a gsxr750 rearset/ master cylinder, so I also de-tabbed most of the frame.

                              Are you doing a restoration project of some kind on a GS? Let everyone see what you are doing by posting the details here.


                              Daryl
                              1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
                              1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D

                              I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

                              Comment

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