Loctite types used for slotted sprocket bolts

[gs11ezrydr]

I was wondering what type of Loctite is the best for slotted cam sprocket bolts. I was going to degree my cams again on my GS1100E and should I use Blue witch I use now. or I have seen green that can be used up to 3 times without replacement of it. I believe green is more for adjustment screws and not cam bolts, Or once I get my cam degree established should I use a small dab of Red just to be safe. With such low torque settings on the cam bolts has any one ever had and sprockets turn on the cams ? I have seen plenty of broken ears along the years also I believe being from over tightened. Or not softening the Loctite with a little heat to soften it before removing the bolts. Long story short what Loctite should be the best in holding and removing? Thanks in advance.

[GSX1000E]

I use grade 12.9 shouldered bolts and red on most of them myself. Some, I have also added a spot weld on the opposite side.

[rapidray]

I always use red. The green is if you never want to take it apart again. I have never had to weld any except Pro Stock type, HUGE lift stuff. I don't think blue is strong enough, in MY opinion.
Ray.

[blowerbike]

my valve trains are smaller...blue never failed me.

[eil]

A member I helped out had the exhaust cam sprocket screws come right out while the engine was running. Broke the cam chain and a rocker arm. (He bought a new head on eBay and the PO must have had the sprocket off for some reason. Talk about learning a lesson the hard way. I guess it shows you have to be really thorough when checking over used parts!)

[ArttuH]

Suzuki recommends using "thread lock super" which is harder one of two thread locks mentioned in the workshop manual. I have been using hard lock made by CRC. It's quite hard stuff but the bolts can be still opened without heating. No idea what would be equal product from Loctite.

Apparently there has been some troubles with the cam sprocket bolts on GS1100 engines in history. According the workshop manual Suzuki first changed the 6mm bolts to harder grade and later on changed to 7mm bolts. Also the torque setting is quite high for that small bolts.

[gs11ezrydr]

Red it will be Ray. I have always used a little dab internally in my engines anyway. I will use 12.9 shoulder bolts, With Red Loctite Should the bolts be torqued at the stock specs or a little tighter due to being slotted, Don't think I'm ready for welding yet with 348 lift cams .Mainly I was wanting to move the power band around a little. And did not want to snap any cam ears off. I thought of blocking the nut side with a bar of steel and taking a prick punch and distorting the bolt (punch mark at the corner of threads, slightly distorted when I get them where I like them.) Could always dremel the bolts and replace them when reused. Welding I don't believe will be called for at this time. I know I do all my starter clutches like this with almost o failures after using lapping compound on the crank and flywheel areas, Loctite and rattle gun.

[Nessism]

Threebond 1360 is a green thread locker that's designated as medium strength but high heat. I use that stuff for internal engine fasteners like those cam bolts. Don't forget to torque the bolts using a torque wrench too. I don't always use one, but for stuff like that I do.

[Urban spaceman]

I always used blue, or a spot of weld. Those bolts will only come out if someone forgot to tighten them.
If you've slotted standard sprockets and only made a small slot (which is usually more than enough) you can fill the remaining slot with blue loctite and the flange head bolt will seal it in and it'll set like rock, preventing the sprockets moving also. No heat ever needed to remove either.