1100 going back together

[RacingJake]

I got the cases back together and it's back in the frame. I need to reinforce the rear motor mount to prevent another crack. That bolt and spacer is a weak link. I'm thinking of making a second mount just like the outside one and using it between the case and spacer with longer bolts and washers.

[lecroy]

Jake,

That guy I had PMed you on had a third bearing support along with several other parts. Did you get the lockup?

[RacingJake]

Thanks, but I did'nt notice the PM in time.

[cbxchris]

Jake on kosman frames they use a slightly larger bolt and torque the heck out of it.Something else to consider is the one piece bearing support. It ties the frame and engine together to stop what happened to you. Yeap its expensive but better than busting cases. Good luck. I still enjoy reading your racing reports. Keep us posted!

[RacingJake]

I just had a brite idea or you might call it my oil pressure idiot light just came on....... I'm going to try just a piece of metal and bolt it to my sprocket cover on the outside and run it to the two bolts that the rear engine mounts too at the frame. Should be a piece of cake to make just as soon as I can stop by LOWES.

With a little luck I might just be racing on Friday

[cbxchris]

Be careful that is a weak boss on those 6 mm bolts.

[RacingJake]

Found some flat steel, drilled a few holes, just alittle bending and done. I'll trim off the exceess and paint it to match the theme of my bike.



Will see how this works out this weekend.

[lecroy]

Jake on kosman frames they use a slightly larger bolt and torque the heck out of it.Something else to consider is the one piece bearing support.

Too bad you could not have picked up those parts on eBay. Agree with Chris's point. Larger mounting bolts and tie it into the frame.

On my old GS I have three additional mounts added to the frame. These are beyond the two standard rear mounts you are showing. I also used a much larger and grade 8 bolts for the mounts. Drilled out the block and such. I did some loading calculations and remember wondering if all the changes were going to be enough to hold it in place. Also there is a loading problem with the output shaft relative to the crank. Again to Chris's point, these two are normally tied together. Otherwise the crank wants to move away from the sproket and things come apart. A few different companies make them. RC's looks like this:



Looking at your picture, I don't think the strap you added will be of much help with a compression load like this. I wonder if you could instead run a strap towards the front. With the stock covers there just doesn't look like a good way. Maybe some high tension chain with a tensioner? If you decide to use the setup you have, I would try to run a second one down closer to the shifter.

You can sortof make out the mounts ....



Good luck, hope what ever you come up with holds for at least a few more seasons. Things in this forum would get very boring if you were to break it beyond repair!!

[RacingJake]

She's back together and running again. Going to the track on Friday and should be running in the high 6's. Going to run without the bars for awhile.

I'll most likely go with a outboard kit this winter.

Thanks for all the idea's

[Anonymous]

Why would you want to run without the bars?

[RacingJake]

Cause I'm chicken

I only drop 2 tenths off my ET with them and thats at the 60 footer. This way I won't stress the engine as much plus it will let do a few wheelies off the line.

[Anonymous]

Okay, I was wondering if something was wrong with the bars. I love launching with bars. The 1.7 60 footers gets me going!