Help Tuning A Stock '83 GS1100GL

[Steve]

I'd rather not have to deal with the shims if I didn't have to.

If you'd rather not deal with shims, you may as well plan on selling the bike NOW.

Adjusting valve clearances is part of normal maintenance, recommended by the factory every 3000 miles or so.

Would you recommend getting some special tools to get the shims out? They seem like they might be a little rough to get out and the pdf on Bike Cliff's website looks like he used some special tools.

The only "special" tools are a small, straight-blade screwdriver and some tweezers or hemostats. Don't tell anybody, but I use a magnet. Too many people here are rather paranoid that the shim will be magnetized, but they don't realize that the constant stroking of the cam on the shim also magnetizes it. However, because the shim rotates, the magnetism is cancelled when the shim is stroked in a different direction.

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[carusoat]

Haha I'm not afraid of the shims, Steve! I sold my 650 earlier this week so I currently don't have a running bike is all. The faster I can get it together the better, but I want to know everything is in good shape. I won't be able to work on it this weekend but I'll try moving the shims around next week and see how many shims I'll need to get.

Interesting that you would use the magnet method. I've read about it. I'll try without first, then when I get annoyed I'll think about it.

Thanks for all the help, I've learned so much!

[Steve]

Did you get a chance to look over your spreadsheet?

.

[carusoat]

I looked it over a bit, yes. Pretty cool, thanks

[gs11ezrydr]

I just normally replace the springs, especially if out of specs, Or whenever I install new fiber plates, just think how many times they have been depressed, the age, and the heat fatigues metal also. Cheap and a wise choice to replace while in there. Like everyone else has recommended.

[carusoat]

Well I finally replaced my valve shims. I had to buy 4 of them. Everything was way too tight and now they are all within spec. The problem now is that the bike won't start. It started before I did the valve shims, but I don't see how that affects it. Any ideas? I can verify that it is getting spark, and I had gone through the carbs earlier this summer.

[CrazyCloud]

Sounds like you are getting there! Did you fill the carb bowls by putting the petcock on prime for a while? Check the order of your plug wires? Check vaccuum hoses, etc, etc. It's probably something easy, you just have to find it.

[alke46]

I just read this entire thread and I may have missed it, but did you get rid of the inline fuel filter? Most people believe that is the proper thing to do, especially if your tank is either clean or has a good liner in it.

As to your non starting issues, just remember the old acronym KISS. Most of the time it is something really simple, just overlooked.

Good luck.

Larry

[carusoat]

Thanks guys,

To answer your questions...yes I primed the bowls. I also checked that the bowls were getting fuel, which they were. I also removed the inline filter, i figured it was restricting flow. I believe I have my plug wires are correct. I wasn't sure so I looked at a parts fiche and hooked the wires to the corresponding sides. I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem though. It's easy to figure out which plugs are the inner and outer ones, but each has one that is labelled 1-3, and 2-4. Currently theres a 1-3 and a 2-4 on each side.

Other than that I may just take everything a part and put it back together, maybe (hopefully) I'll find something that's wrong while taking it apart. But for the most part you guys don't think the shims have anything to do with it? I know if they are too tight they cause starting problems.

thanks

[Evark]

If your carbs were tuned for before, when almost all of your valve shims were probably out of clear ace, it's possible they're not set properly for the new clearances? Did you get it running again? I'm at a similar stage with my gs1100glz but waiting for the new valve cover gasket to show up this week.

[alke46]

Thanks guys,

To answer your questions...yes I primed the bowls. I also checked that the bowls were getting fuel, which they were. I also removed the inline filter, i figured it was restricting flow. I believe I have my plug wires are correct. I wasn't sure so I looked at a parts fiche and hooked the wires to the corresponding sides. I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem though. It's easy to figure out which plugs are the inner and outer ones, but each has one that is labelled 1-3, and 2-4. Currently theres a 1-3 and a 2-4 on each side.

Other than that I may just take everything a part and put it back together, maybe (hopefully) I'll find something that's wrong while taking it apart. But for the most part you guys don't think the shims have anything to do with it? I know if they are too tight they cause starting problems.

thanks

As you sit on the bike, #1 is on left side then 2-3-and 4 is on the right side. The left coil fires #1&4 while the right coil fires #2&3. Hope this helps you.