Project: Chinese gauge set on GSX1100G

[GS1000G Shopper]

Using the KISS method, I flattened the mounting bracket and gained enough room to where the ignition switch housing interfered. I ground the inside leg of the bracket and then enlarged the holes. It fits well, but of course there is a gap between the lower part and the ignition switch. Not bad for $63.

Next comes wiring.

Function: China color vs Suzuki color
Ignition +12V: Black vs Orange/Green
Battery: +12V: Purple vs Red (ignition switch harness)
Ground: Green vs Black/White
Water temp sensor (oil pressure lamp): Green/Blue vs Green/Yellow; need to check polarity
Right turn (+): Light blue vs Light green
Left turn (+): Orange vs Black
High beam (+): Blue vs Yellow
Check engine icon: Brown/Red vs Not used
Neutral: Green/Red vs Blue/Black (-); need to check polarity
RPM: Black/Yellow vs Black/Red
Fuel gauge: Yellow/White vs Yellow/Black; need to check polarity;
Note: China gauge is full @ 10 ohms vs Suzuki sender's 3 ohms, China empty @ 95 ohms vs Suzuki's 110 ohms

GS1150 gear position add-on wiring:
1st gear: Pink vs White/Yellow
2nd gear: Blue/Red vs Red/Blue
3rd gear: Green/Black vs Same
4th gear: Yellow/Red vs Yellow/Black
5th gear: Brown/White vs Brown/Orange
6th gear: Red/White vs Green/Orange (not used GSX-G)

Note: Suzuki GPI research
1984 GS1150ES
Gear switch 37720-49211 $62.00 Shows as superceded by 37720-24A01 , same price
O-ring ID: 36.2mm 2.4mm thick part# 09280-36001 $2.00 (same as GSX1100G)
Switch part #37720-49211 shows as unique to the 84-86 1150ES
Switch part #37720-24A01 shows no model usage

Suzuki made at least two sizes of gear position switches. If the same o-ring is used then the switch can be used.

Upon inspection of the connectors, the following discrepancies were found:
Red/White (6th gear) and Black/Yellow (RPM) not present; 2x Brown and a Blue/White mystery wires are on the black connector.

I suspect the Red/White is missing since the gauge is only set up for gears 1-5. I'll check the wires and see what I can determine. Hopefully one of the brown wires is 6th gear and the other is RPM. No idea what Blue/White does.

If it was easy, anyone could do it.

UPDATE
Brown wire #1 is illumination (undocumented feature)! Good to know since I have a photocell to dim my LED oil pressure/temperature gauge.
Brown wire #2 is the 6th gear wire.
Blue & White must be RPM.

The better news is once the gauge was powered on the needles did a sweep and reset to 0.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I decided to re-pin the connectors. I made one 6-way for the GPI and neutral wire, another 6-way for power, ground, and fuel level, then I used the remaining 9-pin connector for high beam, turn signals, oil pressure lamp, and check engine lamp. I used to have an air temperature LED, combo oil pressure/volts and oil temperature/fuel level gauges on top of the stock cluster. I'm relocating the air temp thermometer to the left side of the fairing (along with the photocell for gauge dimming) and will relocate new single oil pressure/temp gauges to the top of the fairing by the windshield. In the process of doing this, I saw one of the horn wires was cut, so I'm going to layout a plan for dual horns.

I have now wired the panel and almost everything works- the fuel gauge seems to be fluctuating and I cannot get into the setup screen. Following the instructions, a "long press" of the left & right buttons makes an icon named "USB" flash, but nothing can be changed. EDIT: There is a USB port on one end of the gauge visible when the back cover is off. I'll try & connect it to a PC and see what happens.

The good news is the tach setting seems to be right even though I can't adjust anything. I did start the bike and the needle looked to be accurate.
Here's a list of proper functions:

• RPM
• Gear position 1-5
• Neutral lamp
• Left turn
• Right turn (also hazard flashers)
• High beam
• Oil pressure lamp (wired to the coolant icon)
• Fuel (using Suzuki yellow/black wire, the OEM gauge also used a blue/black wire that was a ground, I may ground this and see if it helps)
• Gauge illumination- tested with my photocell & it cycled as it should
• Clock- was able to set the time
• LCD color change
• Miles to KM and vice-versa. No idea if this affects the speedometer, but if it works like other English/Metric gauges it should.

I have not tested the speedometer yet.

I have emailed the seller, probably won't hear anything until Monday.

I'll take some more pics after it cools down.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I heard from the seller & he says the USB port is for charging a phone. I verified this by plugging mine in and going to "USB" mode on the panel. It uses an "A male" to "A male" cable, so I can't plug it into my PC. I was able to plug it into a Windows tablet and nothing happened.

He is on vacation so it will be a few days until he can access his computer to resolve the problem. I'm hoping at this point it is something as simple as a button press sequence.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Success! I played around with several options, and got to the setup menu by holding down the L&R buttons and then powering the dash. While I tried this initially with just the power & ground wires, it also works with the dash installed.

That was the good news, the bad news is pressing the KM/MPH button while riding did not change the speedometer needle. Since there are only 4 magnets and I need 5 to be accurate, I can't complete the setup per my spreadsheet. I did use 2 actual magnets and 5 virtual and this seemed fairly close (seat of the pants) for the driveway runs I was making at about 15 MPH max even though the ratio was 2.5 where the desired ratio is 1.61. The higher the virtual magnets the lower the speed.

One other oddity was that the cylinder setting options are 1,2,4 and 8. I tried 4 and it read way too low, so I put it back to the default 1 and it seemed accurate. The instructions mention a "P" or "N" visible on the dash to determine the type of ignition (positive or negative) while programming, I did not see either.

The dash press sequence in setup is as follows:
Tire circumference (4 digits, 1,000-2,999 mm): Left button raises the number flashing, right button changes to the next number and after the 4th digit advances to the next setting. I began with my OEM size of 1,989 mm. For an exact reading with 5:8 magnets, my spreadsheet says to use 2,001 mm.

Number of cylinders (1,2,4,8): Again, left raises it, and right advances to the next setting.

Pulses (1-12): I need to set this up per my spreadsheet, for 5 actual pulses I'll set it to 8 virtual pulses.

I plugged in 4:4 magnets into the spreadsheet and this required a corrected tire circumference of 3,201 which is beyond the maximum 2,999. According to my calculations, using 4 or less actual magnets, the optimum is 3:5, which returns a raw error of 3.44% (5:8 was -.58%). Reducing the front tire to 1,921 is within range, so I will give that a try.

[SVSooke]

The lost spark ignition might make the 2 setting better for the tach.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The lost spark ignition might make the 2 setting better for the tach.

Good idea, I will try that and see. I'm making some other repairs while I have the fairing off.

[GS1000G Shopper]

More good news. Using a GPS speedometer program called DigiHUD (free digital speedometer for Android with the phone on a bracket on the fairing frame) my first road test with 3 actual: 5 virtual magnets and a 1,921 mm circumference gave a uniform 2 MPH fast read error from 30-70 MPH (e.g. 28 actual was 30 displayed). My testing was cut short by rain, but I did try four other tire sizes:
Increased to stock 1,989 made it read way too fast, like another 5 MPH.
Reduced to 1,900 made no real difference.
Reduced to 1,850 was spot on @ 60 MPH, but 1-2 MPH slow @ 70.
Reduced to 1,870 was about 1 MPH fast @ 60 and spot on @ 70.

This was with the dash set as "Miles", I did not press the Miles/KM button while riding.

I think if I spring for an extra magnet & go 5:8 I should be able to achieve a 0 error rate.

I wasn't paying as much attention to RPM, but on the final run noted about 3,900 RPM @ 60 MPH, which seemed close via seat of the pants. This was with the 1 cylinder setting. I found an old review that cited a stock GSX1100G made 3,925 RPM @ 60, so this is close enough. I think the gauge is defaulting (good thing since I can't change it) to picking up a pulse every time one of the coils fires and dividing it by 2. As the other member here noted, this bike like the GS series uses two coils in a "wasted spark" configuration so it sparks on both intake and exhaust strokes for 1-4 for one coil and 2-3 for the other.

I also grounded the Blue/Black wire from the fuel sender to the Black/White dash ground wire and the gauge reading seems to be stabilized. I started with a nearly full tank, so I'll see if it drops as time goes by.

The gauge is permanently bolted on the bike now with wiring harnesses tucked away. The only drawback is that it could be tilted a little further up for my preference, but this would require extending the bracket. The LCD panel is very easy to read. The bar volt & fuel indicators will take some getting used to since I had numeric digital gauges for these functions before. I also would not mind the gauges being larger, but you don't get everything you want in life, and certainly not for $63 shipped from China.

In summary, I'd recommend this gauge panel for anyone wanting a more modern set of gauges for one of our bikes.

My next project for this bike will be a Microsquirt fuel injection system. I've been acquiring some small parts as I can get them on sale, and after what I've learned on the GS1000G project this one will be a lot easier, plus I have a parts bike to test-fit parts.

Here are some pics from outside today, the fairing is not on yet and the extra wires are for components that connect to the fairing.

[greg78gs750]

a bit off topic, but i have a gsxr gauge cluster on my es. mech speedo, electronic tach, little fiddly figuring out wiring hookups, but fully functional and aesthetically appropriate.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Suzuki kept many functions and wire colors the same throughout the years. There are a number of modern clusters I looked at that for various reasons were not practical. I know there were/are companies that make converters to turn a mechanical speedometer drive into electronic and vice-versa. The latter is very costly.

[GS1000G Shopper]

UPDATE: Avoid these Revo Technica gauges. I had problems with the oil pressure gauge & the vendor while said they were not designed for bike use. As an alternative, if you can find the current clear lens Prosport waterproof gauges on Amazon, they would be a better choice, albeit slightly more expensive. I have linked these in a later post. I ended up being offered a credit for the oil pressure gauge but was stuck with the oil temperature gauge.

After shopping & reading some forum reviews, I bought a set of analog Revo Technica clear lens oil pressure & temperature gauges to replace the digital combo gauges I had since the new dash covers two of their 4 functions. The style of them is similar to the speedometer and tach, and they light up with a similar white light. They are a complete package, as they come with senders, a mounting band, and bracket that was ideal for my use. I don't really care for the silver satin bezel, so I may paint that satin black, especially if it causes glare in sunlight. I've fabbed a bracket to mount both of them to the windshield frame. It's difficult to find clear lens stepper motor gauges at a decent price. I had tried some tinted/smoke gauges on the GS1000 and you can't see them during the day.

I'll take some pics once these are installed.

Here is a pic from their website:
REV2-OT-WHT-NL.jpg

[mikerophone]

They look nice, how much? Their website doesn't have a shopping cart, looks like they only sell through dealers/distributors?

[GS1000G Shopper]

I bought them on eBay, $39 temperature and $42 pressure shipped.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Here are a couple of pics with them mounted to the windshield frame (illumination off and on). I don't think the inner fairing panel will clear as-is, so more thought is required. I may see if I can mount them to the top of the new gauge panel.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Usage report:
The oil gauges were extended away from the windshield by re-drilling the mounting plate and they fit well with no interference.

I bought a set of 5 magnets that were slightly taller (3.16 mm vs 2.94 or about .008 inch) and the same diameter. I apparently have a black hole in my garage, as when I put the first one on to see if it would clear the sensor by turning the wheel by hand, it disappeared. I pulled the caliper & sensor and looked all around the wheel and could not find it. I ended up using one of the shorter magnets as a 5th magnet. I say that to set up the following-

I ran with 5 magnets (used a design program to space them about 72 degrees apart) & a gauge setting of 8 with a calculated 1978 mm tire circumference. The speed was probably within 1 MPH, but the needle was bouncing 3-4 MPH at 60. The instructions say the gauge set works best with either 2 or 4 magnets:

Generally speaking for the speed sensor I send, 2 or 4 is the best number (pulse number the same with magnets number)

I tried 4 magnets 90 degrees apart with a gauge setting of 5 and the bounce was gone. After tweaking the tire setting to 1820, I was within 1-2 MPH from 30-80. I'll settle for that, as I'm sure it is now more accurate than the original gauge was- and it still has the entire needle.

I'm a little concerned with the Revo oil pressure gauge. Since the sender is slightly larger than the one it replaced, I had to relocate the sender to under the carbs from where the other one was below the ignition cover (it draws from the main gallery). I ran a -4 AN PTFE hose that is 9" long with one 90 degree hose end and adapted the other end to a 1/8 pipe thread fitting. I noticed at first it did not generate a reading, so I double checked the wiring and it was OK. It eventually worked properly. Today, I noticed it was not reading again when I began, and after about 4 miles of testing (I was not paying that much attention to this gauge due to speedometer testing) it began to work and worked fine after that.

I'll give it a few more runs and see if this continues. I figure there was likely some air in the hose, and maybe I aggravated this condition due to the sender install. The GSX unlike the 8V GS engine makes a lot of oil pressure, especially when cold.

The oil temperature gauge seems to be working fine.

[posplayr]

I'm a little concerned with the Revo oil pressure gauge. Since the sender is slightly larger than the one it replaced, I had to relocate the sender to under the carbs from where the other one was below the ignition cover (it draws from the main gallery). I ran a -4 AN PTFE hose that is 9" long with one 90 degree hose end and adapted the other end to a 1/8 pipe thread fitting. I noticed at first it did not generate a reading, so I double checked the wiring and it was OK. It eventually worked properly. Today, I noticed it was not reading again when I began, and after about 4 miles of testing (I was not paying that much attention to this gauge due to speedometer testing) it began to work and worked fine after that.

.

If it is a mechanical pressure gauge there is no sensor(just a fitting); since you used PTFE hose I assume it is a mechanical pressure gauge. Not sure why the "fitting" would be larger than the original sensor unless it is your 90 deg fitting that could not be fit under the ignition cover.

Pressure indications should not be affected by air in the line, probably something else. If the line was blocked, it could take a longer time to come up, but to take 4 minutes/miles it would have to be very blocked (less than 0.005" diameter)

IIRC, I use about a 0.60" diameter drill bit to obstruct the oil pressure port to reduce coil flow. I have done that for both a oil sprayer and gauge damper/accumulator.