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GS1000/1100 straight cut crank and clutch gears?

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    #16
    Perhaps my hp figure was a bit low. The stock 1000E made 75hp rear wheel 90hp crank claimed. The GS1100G made 98hp claimed, at 1074cc. Add k&n & pipe & tuned carbs, you should be at closer to 100hp and 108hp. Take the 108 figure and add ported head and cams, smoothbores carbs, & 31cc's additional plus higher compression...

    ...okay I think nick and I were not communicating well when I arrived at that power figure. He was saying a similar engine with .420" lift cams was right around 120hp. That would only likely be measured at the rear wheel via dyno, not crank hp or engine hp before driveline losses.

    probably pushing 120+ hp at the engine before driveline losses. Correct me if I'm wrong. It would probably dyno at 100hp rear wheel.
    '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
    '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
    '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
    '79 GS425stock
    PROJECTS:
    '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
    '77 GS550 740cc major mods
    '77 GS400 489cc racer build
    '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
    '78 GS1000C/1100

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      #17
      I'm not saying run the gear rusty, but once cleared of rust, any small pockets are not going reduce the load bearing capacity the tooth to any significant amount.
      A straight cut gear has even more surface area that an angled gear.

      My 1166, would break the clutch loose with HD springs and EBC disks at about 9K RPM. How much Hp is that, more than yours. This was with a stock 1100 gear/Gorilla basket. The reason you go straight cut is not because the gear can't handle the forces, it is because of the side thrust of the gears.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Chuck78 View Post


        One thing I was a bit concerned about was this photo of renobruce's basket and case. This is a 1000 with an aftermarket 1100 basket, & is very close (less than 1mm) to the cases where he (after this photo was taken) did some case grinding to get more clearance "just in case" due to flex under extreme loads.




        The 4V GS1100 basket is taller than the GS1000 basket. If you cut the 1100 basket down enough to get it in the cases, you would have to eliminate 1 fiber plate (and use 1100 plates). And as the plates have less friction area as the 1000, you would not want to do this. What I am saying is to pay attention to the height of the basket assembly when deciding which one is the best. The 1100 friction plates and the 1000 friction plates are not the same. You will want either 8 (2V) friction plates or 9 (4V) friction plates. I ran an MTC "forged" GS1100 basket in my drag bike with 9 (4V) frictions but I had to machine the height of the basket down AND grind out the cases to the point that I wished I had heli-coiled that front center clutch cover bolt. The bolt hole had only 4 or 5 threads left in it. It basically took a lot of care and measuring to accomplish this. If you run that clutch spacer, the stock right side foot peg will have to be spaced out further to clear the cover, if you plan to use it.

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          #19
          Spacing out the cover is a non issue and why I decided to look into this route. It's a Rickman road race frame and the rear set foot pegs are set back quite a ways.

          I will look into the clearance here this weekend. I will definitely do what I can to run all 9 plates. Part of the reason I opted to try out the ancient mtc billet basket was due to the beveled cut at the end of the basket where I'll be needing the most clearance. Less material needed to remove is best.

          Thanks for all of the wisdom Billy, Nick, & others.
          Last edited by Chuck78; 02-28-2017, 12:32 AM.
          '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
          '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
          '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
          '79 GS425stock
          PROJECTS:
          '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
          '77 GS550 740cc major mods
          '77 GS400 489cc racer build
          '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
          '78 GS1000C/1100

          Comment


            #20
            I spoke to Ray in the past about sc gears vs a hd welded baskey with helical. Even WITH helical he said up to 200 hp was fine. It has survived so far. The tranny didn't, but the basket and crank are fine.
            1981 GS 1100e turbo, 83 motor, turbo pistons, new head, new turbo, backed and welded clutch basket, Dyna S ignition, cbr 929 front end, gsxr 750 rear end with 190 tire, all carbon fiber covered bodywork.

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              #21
              Actually, what I said was, up to 180 hp with STREET tires, not slicks, will be ok as long as you aren't doing dragstrip launches & keep an eye on the basket. You CAN damage the cases & basket with high hp & helical gears if you don't look at your parts from time to time. Helical gears & hp are definitely NOT "Set it & forget it!"!!!!
              Ray.

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                #22
                So Ray, what is the failure mode? I assume the basket either chewing up the oil pump gear and inner case, or the hub and outer case due to the side loads? Or is it the gears being forced apart and breaking teeth off like my old Muncie behind a big block?
                sigpic
                09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
                1983 GS1100e
                82\83 1100e Frankenbike
                1980 GS1260
                Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

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                  #23
                  I think I recall reading warnings of the basket just fragmenting (exploding) and trashing the cases I high hp/high abuse scenarios.
                  '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
                  '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
                  '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
                  '79 GS425stock
                  PROJECTS:
                  '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
                  '77 GS550 740cc major mods
                  '77 GS400 489cc racer build
                  '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
                  '78 GS1000C/1100

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