Taking a GS1000 to the track, advice needed

[GregT]

In the initial stages of our 1000's development, a rear rim from an 1100E went in - 18in and a bit wider. Better choice of rubber.
The twinpot brake upgrade is a well documented upgrade - and will be necessary. Use drilled or slotted rotors.
We've finished up with Gazi shocks, these seem to be a southern hemisphere thing, made in Thailand as a pretty good Ohlins copy. About 2/3 the price of Ohlins...
They're around 40mm longer than OE.
We use progressive springs in a stock fork and it handles very well indeed.
It's possible to keep the electric starter but ditch the alternator rotor. I've posted a pic of the cut cover previously.

[Rijko]

In the initial stages of our 1000's development, a rear rim from an 1100E went in - 18in and a bit wider. Better choice of rubber.

glad you mentioned that, think my buddy has them.
What width tires did you use and what rear fork ?
Using 520 chain/sprockets ?

The twinpot brake upgrade is a well documented upgrade - and will be necessary. Use drilled or slotted rotors.

Will do, i bought a set of '89 ZX10 calipers yesterday
Talked to Chuck, i like the way he mounted them... "could be stock" look.
He used 23 mm offset, 296mm ss discs from a 98/99 CB600F Hornet.
I just ordered these new ones : http://www.ebay.nl/itm/252773128244

We've finished up with Gazi shocks, these seem to be a southern hemisphere thing, made in Thailand as a pretty good Ohlins copy. About 2/3 the price of Ohlins... They're around 40mm longer than OE.

I have a reseller that sells the Gazi shocks, will talk to him.
Did the extra height cause issues with the chain, did you use a bigger front sprocket ?

It's possible to keep the electric starter but ditch the alternator rotor. I've posted a pic of the cut cover previously.

Can't find that pic, but i take it you did the Yoshimura slashcut, leaving the crank intact ?

GS750 yoshi.JPG

[GregT]

glad you mentioned that, think my buddy has them.
What width tires did you use and what rear fork ?
Using 520 chain/sprockets ?

We initially used BT45 rear and a 19in BT39 front, can't remember sizes sorry. The 39 is a soft compound and as long as you want to use a 19 front, it's better than Avons IMO. Went straight to 520, yes as we were eventually going to wider 17in wheels. Using 16 - 18T front sprockets depending on circuit with usually a 42 rear. Swapped in an alloy 1100 arm early on.
The BT's were good enough to beat bikes running on slicks. Good rider too though, LOL.



Will do, i bought a set of '89 ZX10 calipers yesterday
Talked to Chuck, i like the way he mounted them... "could be stock" look.
He used 23 mm offset, 296mm ss discs from a 98/99 CB600F Hornet.
I just ordered these new ones : http://www.ebay.nl/itm/252773128244



I have a reseller that sells the Gazi shocks, will talk to him.
Did the extra height cause issues with the chain, did you use a bigger front sprocket ?

As above, no probs. We use the softest available gazi springs. Bought through Australia, they'd only sold one other set of that spring in over 100 sales....The aussies must be fat buggers, LOL



Can't find that pic, but i take it you did the Yoshimura slashcut, leaving the crank intact ?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]51726[/ATTACH]

Crank intact, rotor boss cut back about 15mm. Shorter retaining bolt. Capscrews retaining the starter clutch tack welded.

[Rijko]

thanks Greg !

have a alloy 1100 arm, will use it. Trust the 18" rear, and 40mm extra height lift the front
enough, on a standard GS1000S with 18" rear wheel using BT45's i have to be careful not to scrape the genny cover on tight corners.
Will make the genny cover as you pictured.

Will keep the rest of the engine stock, go for VM28SS with K&N pods and have that setup tuned by Dynojet guru Ruud Fredriks.

Looking forward to trying the front with Sonic 1.1 springs and MikesXS cartridge emulators, my buddy is fabricating the converters from Dan's drawings.

Will mount BT39/45 tires and 520 with 16/42 sprockets.

I'm sure that will be a lot of fun on the track, the limiting factor will be me

I received the M-Unit today, looking forward to hooking it up.

M-Unit Marlboro.jpg

[GregT]

With those carbs and a 4 : 1 pipe, it's worth dialling the stock cams in to 107 lobe center inlet and 109 exhaust.Very good midrange and top end with those figures.
If you search Utube for "GS1000 racing" there's an old vid on line of our GS in it's early form. Yours should approximate what you see. Wheelies optional....

[Rijko]

With those carbs and a 4 : 1 pipe, it's worth dialling the stock cams in to 107 lobe center inlet and 109 exhaust.Very good midrange and top end with those figures.
If you search Utube for "GS1000 racing" there's an old vid on line of our GS in it's early form. Yours should approximate what you see. Wheelies optional....

Nooooo ... you mean this is you (or a team mate) ?

Must have watched this vid 1000+ times.
Definition of riding in anger + having insane amounts of fun !

Wet dreams for me ... though ofcourse i will try to at least have as much
fun even if only 10% as fast ... i love wheelies.

[Carter Turk]

Great video passing the whole lot...from the back.
Curious when a 1100 had a 18" rear?
Or is that a southern hemi thing with spokes.

[GregT]

The old grey haired coot working on the clutch is me....

What the US called the 1150 was still sold down here as an 1100 - pretty sure the rim we used then was a 3.5 X 18 which was probably from an "1150" - or as we call them, an 1135.

The bike is a lot different now - a LOT more power, 17's, better brakes, more bracing etc etc...as you do. hasn't been out for a season now due to the rider/owner's illness. When he's stronger, we'll be back...

Pic is current state of the bike. Greymouth street races a couple of seasons back. Just past start line - exit of last corner is about 150 meters back.
On smooth circuits it lays rubber exiting corners...

[Rijko]

looking cool there Greg !
Engine sounds powerful in the vid, and you now have a LOT more power ?
Must be a blast to ride

[GregT]

There's an old rule of thumb - the more powerful a bike is, the better it should carburate...Lot of patience needed to get our old machines up to a good standard.
It runs 33mm CR's and a Dyna 2000. The Pres of our local Classic club was doing writeups of members bikes for the magazine so I suggested he take the next step and do a track test...He came back fizzing at how user friendly it is.
He even liked the "supple suspension"... Rich wouldn't, the rear is good but the front is spaced so as to have no static unladen sag - and only about 10mm with the rider aboard. It's that way so as to prop the front up in long sweepers - ground clearance again...And the rider's preferred cornering method is trail brake deep, turn it and nail it. The front pops up - wheelies again, LOL - and it digs in and goes. Curving black lines out of most hairpins...

[RichDesmond]

...He even liked the "supple suspension"... Rich wouldn't, the rear is good but the front is spaced so as to have no static unladen sag - and only about 10mm with the rider aboard. It's that way so as to prop the front up in long sweepers - ground clearance again...And the rider's preferred cornering method is trail brake deep, turn it and nail it. The front pops up - wheelies again, LOL - and it digs in and goes. Curving black lines out of most hairpins...

Yeah, that's got me twitching. It'll wheelie less and transfer power better with less preload up front. But lack of ground clearance can force some ugly compromises.

[GregT]

Yep, all of this is known...maybe one day we'll do something about it. The last season before he got sick, he was getting good at backing it in.Truly frightening to watch, particularly from up close I'm told...Massive talent, having fun.

[gs58]

If you've not raced or done a trackday before, leave it as stock as possible to start with.
Modify it as you think you need to - and only when you've identified a need for change.

IMO unless you're really short, the footrests are too high. With the very flat seat, you're going to need to use your legs to help locate yourself.
I'd drop them about 50mm. Ground clearance won't suffer as the alternator cover will touch down first...

Don't take the electric start off - they're a heavy pig to push start....

Great advice Greg. I went down the road of thinking that more horsepower would make up for less talent and ended up breaking vertebrae, tail bone, ribs, bones in hands and feet and scratched my helmet. Get experience before power. And spend good money on the best tyres - they are (hopefully) the only thing between you and the road.

[Rijko]

Great advice Greg. I went down the road of thinking that more horsepower would make up for less talent and ended up breaking vertebrae, tail bone, ribs, bones in hands and feet and scratched my helmet. Get experience before power. And spend good money on the best tyres - they are (hopefully) the only thing between you and the road.

yep, great advice and i'll take it
I did order the Sonic 1.1 kg springs, will use them with the MikesXS cartridge emulators.
Just wondering if i should use the standard amount of oil.

I'll start with the Koni rear shocks and buy new sport/touring tires.
Twinpot upgrade and VM28SS carbs, standard engine.
Ride the bike for several hundred km's to get used to it on the road.

Will start with a beginners course, this is a controlled ride so no overtakes.
Next up my buddy, an experienced track instructor will tutor me for a day.
Hope this gives me a good start.
Thank you all for your help !

[tas850g]

Suspension, brakes, and tires are about the only things to be concerned with for track days and novice racing. It can be really that simple at first. Then spend the rest of your money on instruction.

That's my current take of 3 years of racing.