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To much free time on my hands-- and it works

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    #16
    Never seen that one Jake. Hey good cheap idea if it works. Keep us posted on how it works! I knew EXACTLY what you were up to when I saw those pics. 8)

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      #17
      I've been working on something similar for my streetbike. I would like to be able to have my bike shift when I push a button on the bars. This is like the drag racers do. I would mount a small 12v motor (a remote trunk release motor would do just fine) under the seat & have the cable run to the shifter.When I push the button, the ignition would be killed then the elec. motor shifts the bike, then the ignition comes back on. Done properly these shifts are smoother than you could do with your clutch hand alone & can be done at full throttle. I think I need some kind of electric solenoid that could control these functions.
      I am asking for your help with the type of solenoid I would need.

      Diagram anyone????

      Here is what I had in mind.....


      Thanks, Paul
      80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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        #18
        Only got ten runs tonight and the Ford soleniod worked great. I had it hooked up to the RTD7 box and that is going to take alittle time to get use too.

        I was way to slow in releasing the button when the first amber lite, It feels odd doing it. I had 1.520 on the box and a few times I didn't release the button until the 3rd amber came on so I'm setting there on the rev-limiter with a green light and nothing happens until 1.5 seconds later a then bam I'm holding on for dear life. Also felt like the rear tire was spinning too coming out of the hole with a 7K so maybe a 6K chip will work better.

        So I set the box to 0.000 and practice leaving off the last amber until I get use to using it. I did a best 60ft at 1.43, 330 at 4.12 and 660 at 6.46 so that's not to bad. The only thing I'm going to change is the button I'd had it up to high and my left thumb didn't like that.

        So with alittle more fine tuning and practice I should get there.
        1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
        1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
        1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
        1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
        01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

        Comment


          #19
          Electric Shifter Enhancement

          I am not sure how strong that "soft steel" piece of angle iron is but I know what it is. It's like that corner bracketing stuff.....

          I am afraid it will bend.

          Simple mod - weld a piece of that flat steel in a diagonal from the lower right hand corner up to the left end of the top finger.

          Then - box the whole thing in with another piece.
          __
          You'll end up with |\|--- solenoid here. (Sorry, no graphics --> |Z| )
          ---
          This box with a diagonal will not bend under repeated use. Try to keep the whole assembly as light as possible.

          Or, mill a piece of aluminum (Kats good at that) into the shape of a sideways or "L" shape.---> _|

          Drill and tap 2 holes in the vertical leg of the "L" and mount it to the vertical metal piece attached to the plunger after putting in matching holes. Use small screws. (I know - you can't weld aluminum to steel)

          The other horizontal leg of the aluminum L - use to attach to the clutch lever. If you don't want the aluminum to wear - drill the whole oversize and put in a simple steel sleeve - you can buy at most good hardware stores or size a piece of steel thinwall pipe. Or use a PVC sleeve.

          A piece of aluminum flat plate is easy to fabricate a "L" shape. Make sure it is thick enough.

          Or - don't do anything if you think that metal won't fatigue or bend.

          Yep - I'm an engineer. Variations on this design are encouraged.

          "Take 10 engineers, give them a problem, and you'll get 10 designs. Any 3 of them combined will work out all the bugs." Scheist. - Dieter
          ---

          Comment


            #20
            I did weld some more metal on the side of the bracket and it's not going to bend now. I'm not much of a welder but with my arc welder and about 6 sticks I can blast almost anything together.

            Thanks for the other idea's.
            1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
            1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
            1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
            1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
            01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

            Comment


              #21
              just one question for you dude:
              how are you supposed to find the friction point? i'm often wrong but in my mind a clutch isnt an on/off thing.

              actually the only time i use my clutch is to start moving. the rest of the time, i ease off the throttle and pull the shifter up.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by gsBert
                just one question for you dude:
                how are you supposed to find the friction point? i'm often wrong but in my mind a clutch isnt an on/off thing.

                actually the only time i use my clutch is to start moving. the rest of the time, i ease off the throttle and pull the shifter up.
                He's got a lockup clutch, so you run light springs on the clutch, so that the clutch can't grab all the way when the lever pops out. The weights on the the clutch the press the plates together as rpms rise causing the clutch to lock up. You can tune the clutch by adding weights, or changing springs. By popping the clutch everytime, and letting the mechanical stuff do it's job, you gain consistancy, and you start winning at bracket racing.

                Just to be clear, this setup is not good for street use.

                Comment


                  #23
                  ah, thanks for the clarification and good explanation. how really cool! if i understand it right, it's kinda like a slipper clutch only in reverse combined with a weight system like they have on centerforce clutches (for cars)
                  yeah i figured that would suck for street use... lol

                  btw: what is bracket racing?

                  Comment

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