Step by Step build your own Steel Braid Brake Lines

[katman]

The original post here was with picutures but I have run out of space on my site and have to reduce the storage.

so go here:

http://bwringer.com/gs/brakelines.html

for complete instructions with pics.

[katman]

Let's take a look at the fittings.

as you can see it has three components. The banjo, ferrule. collar


This is the correct configuration to install on brake line.


6: Slide the collar on over the tape with threaded end toward the caliper.


7: The ferrule has a flat side and the other side is for sliding over the inner core.

[katman]

8: push the ferrule over the inner core and under the braid. look into the hole and see that the core is seated up tight against the back of the hole. See the flat side of the ferrule is visible. DON'T GET THIS WRONG!

9: Thread in the banjo


I tape up the end to protect it from the vise. Clamp banjo and with a 12mm wrench tighten up the collar.


10: Don't tighten completely. Take it out and check the shoulder of the banjo in relation to the collar. It is a good idea to have a loose assembly together to compare. See how deep the banjo it into the collar. DO NOT over tighten. If this is the second end you will also have to check the rotation of the fitting for alignment with the caliper and master cylender. the steel braid doesn't twist either. Slowly adjust and tighten to get the right rotation without over tightening.


Now you are done.

IMPORTANT...FROM TONY DIETER

Assure lines are dry and free of all brake fluid residue around the fittings and cable coupling

Apply the brake lever - HARD. Hold. Inspect for leaks. Better yet, Take a bungee cord, apply the brake lever hard - wrap the bungee cord around the lever and handgrip and fasten in place to leave the brake lever compressed.

Go take a walk, eat dinner, smoke, sleep whatever. Come back in a while and reinspect for leaks and lever compression. If all OK - ride ride ride.

Rhetorically, brakes gotta work...for a long time. May also want to check for proper length on the cables with forks extended and compressed.

[Anonymous]

Great post, I replaced my hoses with Russells many years ago and they weren't cheap then...I'm sure they haven't gotten any cheaper. And with reuseable fittings, when the hose accumulates a few years, it can be replaced.

(pssst--minor detail--it's spelled ferrule ...)

Thanks for the great post and pics, that took some extra effort on your part and I'm sure we all appreciate it.

[katman]

Hey Bill,

I am lucky to have gotten the name right let alone the spelling.......

[shaftzuki]

Now this is the kind of thing I really like to see!! 8)

Posts like this one are just what the members like - they may not admit it - but it's true!!

That Kat your building is going to be one unique machine - by the time you have made all of the mods - you could probably assemble a book and sell it!!

[Jethro]

Great post. Been wondering if I could make the lines myself.

[wrench]

Excellent post,
thanks Katman

[Anonymous]

Hey Katman,

How about sharing where you bought the supplies from, too? I am going to be putting braided lines on my 1100 this winter and this looks like a good way to pass some of those cold winter nights...

Mark

[Anonymous]

Wonderful post! I have wanted steel braided lines for a while, but couldn't get the setup for my bike. Where can you buy the supplies for this ( the ferrules, fittings, and line)?

Harrison

[Hap Call]

This post does not belong here!!!!

It belongs as an article in the Garage section of the GS Resources!!! Great job!!!


See if Frank can move it there.


Hap

[first timer]

hey kat,

where did you get the supplies and how much did it end up costing you.

thanks so much for this post i just pdf it for later use.

-ryan

[katman]

This post does not belong here!!!!

It belongs as an article in the Garage section of the GS Resources!!! Great job!!!


See if Frank can move it there.


Hap

Yet another section I know nothing about........man. I got to get out of performance mods more...hehehe.


The anodized fittings can be hard to find but call around to the sportbike shops or shops that lean to racing. The fittings are complete, collar, ferrule, banjo. You can also order them from Earl's, goodrich, aeroquip I think has them too.

Many shops carry bulk braided line just buy by the foot.

Pricing is as follows:

fittings are around 20.00 usd. straight ones are cheaper than angled ones.

STAINLESS STEEL fittings are far more available and 1/2 the price.

Banjo bolts are about 5.00 each.

Hose is about 8 or 9.00 a foot.

Many shops won't carry anodized fittings because of the reaction between steel and alum. They have a different charge and with the addition of salt (road salt in winter, salt sea air and so forth) they corrode quicker. They say they are for racing use only.

I say ...NUTS TO THAT....I have talked to several guys who use them and they have had no probs.

http://www.earls.co.uk/bike/index.html

[MichaelHoward]

Awesome information and help Katman! Thanks!
Michael

[Anonymous]

fittings are around 20.00 usd. straight ones are cheaper than angled ones.

Please tell me that is for all of them, not each...

Many shops won't carry anodized fittings because of the reaction between steel and alum.

Make that aluminum and almost any other metal. Aluminum is very reactive and almost always forms the anode of the battery, causing it to corrode quickly. For our purposes in North America it is not really that bad unless you routinely ride on salted roads in the winter. Sea air (coastal towns) is not too hard on it if it is anodized. If you scratch the coating and break through it will start to go, though. A bit of care with the wrenches is called for here.

I say ...NUTS TO THAT....

Indeed. A bit of care and keeping an eye open for problems is more than enough for our uses.

Mark