1100 arrived today! Yeeeee-haaa!

[katman]

I don't believe a framing hammer is a recomended method of truing the crankshaft......You may want to have a shop check it.

[SqDancerLynn1]

They probably Fuc%ed it up trying to remove the rotor without the proper tools to fix the starter

[Mark Harrop]

If I do a runout with a dial indicator on the end of the crank, will that give me some idea if it needs to come out? It appears as if the starter clutch still works OK....needs a new gear obviously...

are the 3 bolts on the starter clutch notoriously weak?

[lhanscom]

are the 3 bolts on the starter clutch notoriously weak?

Yes, they are evil evil evil bolts. I like Biker66's fix of oversizing the bolts to 10mm instead of 8mm. You probably won't have any more issues with new bolts for a long time anyway though. Be sure to get the hardened bolts 12.9 I believe is the number you want.

[Hoomgar]

At least you know what you have now Mark and can plan out your angle of attack on it. Those cracks in that first picture? I was having trouble making that out? Is that the motor housing? I mean, are you going to need another case now or can that be welded?

[katman]

At least you know what you have now Mark and can plan out your angle of attack on it. Those cracks in that first picture? I was having trouble making that out? Is that the motor housing? I mean, are you going to need another case now or can that be welded?

I had the same probem with my engine. I had it welded and re-bored. Hoomgar, it is the engine case where the starter cog shaft lives. Mine had two cracks but is good as new now. My engine the end came off the crank and it had to be taken out crank end replaced, re-welded and trued.

I don't think checking the runout is the best idea. You should really crack the cases mate.....sorry...I know it's not what you want to hear but I have found the "do it now or double it later" concept applies toooo often...

[Mark Harrop]

But I don't want to crack the cases.....

Seriously....I know the right thing to do would be to crack the cases...It's what happens next that I'm afraid of...I'll have to mortgage my house to pay my parts bill....cuz I can see a big bore kit, cams, carbs,blah blah blah...in my future. Happens every time. :twisted:

I'll have to think about it.....go cheap for instant gratification....or play it smart and rebuild....
I've never been good at these decisions, having an impulsive nature

...but, If I did disassemble it...only fix what is broken...and assemble with new gaskets and seals...maybe I could swing it.

[katman]

Hey Mark,

cracking my cases only cost me 10 grand.....lol

[Dink]

Do it once do it right!!!!
Otherwise you are only putting a "handgrenade" in your bike.
Dink
BTW replace the gearbox bearings

[katman]

that is wisdom speaking Mark.........

"You have to ask yourself one question???." Do you feel lucky?""

[Mark Harrop]

Well......here's what I did.....


I took a piece of copper wire and wrapped it around a bolt. I took the free end and bent it over by the end of the crank....so it was about a millimeter away.
I had my son turn the motor over while I sighted down next to the wire/crankshaft end.



It wobbles........... :roll:



Looks like I'll be crackn' em open. :twisted:


This could get ugly....and wind up in divorce court 8O

[Mark Harrop]

Whats the best/most economic way to get about 20 horsepower?

[katman]

what is the refund situation??

was it described as a running motor??

[Anonymous]

Whats the best/most economic way to get about 20 horsepower?

Sorry to hear your situation, it sucks completely.

Now, on to the good stuff. Things to do for more power :

1) Pod filters/stage 3 jet kit. Some people like the kits, some hate them and do it themselves from scratch. Your choice. Cost for filters maybe $75USD for K&N's, jet kit maybe $50 on E-bay.

2) Degree the cams. If you can, install a set of 1150 cams or a mild aftermarket grind. Cost for slotted cam sprockets, maybe $25USD on E-bay or have a shop do yours. 1150 cams - no idea, aftermarket cams - several hundred dollars.

3) A good exhaust system. The sidewinder drag pipes (Vance and Hines, Star Racing) make the most power, but are a pain on a street bike that must turn both ways. BTW, there is nothing magic about the sidewinder set-up, they just happen to be the best designed in terms of header lengths/sizes and use of a megaphone after the collector. A custom pipe with the same primary tube lengths and sizes and a megaphone would make the same power in a conventional 4-1 configuration with the collector under the motor. Too bad no one makes one... Cost for V&H street meg about $280USD. Not sure on the drag pipes, about the same I think. The V&H website lists all of their stuff with prices if you are interested.

4) Flatslide carbs. 36mm for a mild engine, 38mm for a wild engine. Cost about $400USD on E-bay. This is an alternative to the pod filters and stage 3 kit above, so it would be either one or the other.

5) 1166cc Wiseco big bore kit. Cost about $550USD, plus machine work. Plus labour if you can't do it yourself (although you sound OK in this regard).

I am in the same boat as you on my 82 1100E. I want about 125rwhp when I am done and I plan to go with a stage 3 kit and pods, degreed stock cams, exhaust and an 1166 kit, along with a small port modified head as shown here http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm. This should get me there easily and be nice and reliable as a street bike. By far the best bang for the buck is the 1166 kit. Biggest power and torque increase of any of the mods for pretty reasonable $$$. Combined with the easy/cheap stuff like the stage 3 kit and degreeing the cams it will give you an awesome ride with few problems.

Check out Rosco15's site (www.rccracing.com) for dyno charts on his 1100 in several states of tune. It is very informative for picking your mods.

Mark

[katman]

are the 3 bolts on the starter clutch notoriously weak?

Yes, they are evil evil evil bolts. I like Biker66's fix of oversizing the bolts to 10mm instead of 8mm. You probably won't have any more issues with new bolts for a long time anyway though. Be sure to get the hardened bolts 12.9 I believe is the number you want.

Thanks for reminding me.....I just went out and got a few of those little goodies. I had forgot about them...and 12.9 is the correct strength. I think they are the ones that hold on Superman's cape.