1100 arrived today! Yeeeee-haaa!

[Mark Harrop]

Sound advice all....

I bought the motor as-is. The guy wouldn't comment on the condition. 600 bucks seemed reasonable, as I have seen junk motors go for more than 500 with lots of stuff missing.
I'm going to sell off a bunch of other junk to help finance the rebuild. I don't feel like I got ripped off because I knew what I was getting into. I was just hoping the motorcycle gods would smile on me and make it a good motor. Sometimes no amount of wishful thinking can make a bad situation better.
10mm bolts definitley!

[katman]

Hey Boys,

I have posted here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?p=259183#259183

about the sheering of the starter clutch bolts and I am being told not to change them to harder ones?? They say the sheering is a good thing??

Jake and any other draggers ......... am I in error? Set me straight will you. I always thought it was a bad thing.

[rosco15]

I've heard of guys having the end of the crank damaged when the bolts shear off. How could that be a good thing. I would think the starter would stop before you would bend a connecting rod. Heck those rods can take 200 HP. I've never had mine shear, but I've also never run with the stock bolts. One of the first things I changed. I guess this is up to you and what your comfortable with.

[lecroy]

I have never had a problem with them on the stock bikes. I use ProLock on all of them and have stock advancers.

The old electric start drag bike uses 24V to the starter with grade 8 bolts. I use a locking nut on the back side. This is a 1428cc engine, but is very low compression.

[Hoomgar]

Hey Mark. Some food for thought. Maybe look around for yet another motor. One that you can verify will drop in and go before you pay. Then sell the first one you bought. If that would work out it would be quick, less expensive than rebuilding and keep you married

[katman]

Hey Mark,

any new news??

[Mark Harrop]

No...nothing new yet. I'm backed up with other projects. I'll be stripping it down soon to see what else is damaged. I'll see what's reuseable (and if it really did have 5000 miles on it) and what I'll have to replace.

I don't think another motor is an option at this juncture....I'll have to dilute the cost of the rebuild over time.

Great starter bolt thread too....very interesting.....

[mcycle-nut]

I think someone needs an 1100 motor shoved up his ass!

[katman]

It's a good idea to RE & RE the beast. that way when your done it's good for another 30-40,000.

It would have been a drag to put it in ride for a month and have to pull it and do it then. I'ts the end of the season and this way you have a new motor for next season....

good luck Mark, and I look forward to seeing the pics of your machine finished and snortin fire"

[katman]

Sound advice all....

10mm bolts definitley!

Are you still thinking 10mm bolts? the 12.9 8's would be fine for your application with loc-tite. Even the stock 8.8 bolts with loc-tite depending on your slant on this issue.

The 10mm's are extra work and extra cash.

[Mark Harrop]

12.9-8s it is...

[Anonymous]

Weld the starter clutch to the magnet asembly, 3 welds each about an inch long over each bolt. stock bolts are fine if you do this. tig weld only. use lapping compound to mate the faces on the taper, heat female taper whack on with an impact, red locktite on nut.
starts my 13.5 to 1 1428 fine for years

[Mark Harrop]

Hey guys....

My home computer got so filled with spyware/adware/viruses etc that it finally wont "mount the boot volume"...or something. Its fragged.

Anyway...my motor is still sitting in my garage looking like a boat anchor.

Any recommendations on where to send the crank?

[SqDancerLynn1]

Falicon Crankshafts

http://www.faliconcranks.com/crankwk.htm

[Mark Harrop]

They did the crank on my RD...looks like they'll get the GS as well. What am I looking at price-wise start to finish? 600.00 or so?