Simple and affordable mods?

[Ratboyollie]

Hey guys,

Looking for some mods/ fixes for my gs550e (1981 i think). I have a background in honda cb’s 900/1100 and some common mods for those are:

coil relay mod
coil swap to cbr coils
cbr swingarm swap

So i’m wondering what are some good affordable mods for the gs? (Interchangeable parts etc)
not looking for a full on race bike but something reliable and with fair power.

let me know,
Ratboyollie

[Tanerrc]

I've seen that guys do the coil relay mod as well as a headlight relay mod. Don't know if either of those add any power to the bike though. I've changed out my old coils with new Dyna coils. The green ones. On my 550 and 1000. More for a clean burn and reliability then power. So I guess I don't know of any good cheap mods you can make. I had my 550 head ported and valves and seats cut to add a little more power but I wouldn't call that cheap. You might be able to swap out the cams from another model but I'm not sure. Might be worth looking into. Just making sure you don't have any air leaks through your carb boots or exhaust system, clean and balanced carbs, and clean gas. Basscliff has a whole site with really good tutorials on how to make your GS run like it should.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Check it out.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I think by far the most popular "mod" performed on any GS is not really a mod, but considered a necessity by most, is replacement of the stock Regulator/Rectifier. At some point your OEM shunt type R/R will probably fail and take the stator with it. If this hasn't happened yet, consider yourself on borrowed time. Test your stator, determine its health, and replace it if needed, but not before changing your stock R/R with a series type like the Shindengen SH775, found on a lot of used SeaDoo and Polaris machines. This, along with cleaning up all electrical connections (chemically, physically, preferably both), and establishing a SPG (single point ground) will go a long way to making your 38? year old bike starting and running reliably. Ask me how I know.

[Steve]

Before you do the coil mod, headlight mod, and all the other 'mods', do a quick voltage test.

Connect the ground lead of your meter to a good ground point on the bike. Does not matter if it's chassis or the battery itself, as long as the same point is used for the following tests.

Record the voltage found at:
1. Battery positive terminal
2. The 'hot' side of the MAIN fuse
3. The 'dead' side of the MAIN fuse
4. The 'hot' side of the other three fuses (orange wire)
5. The 'dead' side of the other three fuses (one reading for each fuse).

If all those readings are reasonable close, you don't 'need' any relay mods.
If there is a difference between #3 and #4, you have problems with the ignition switch. Either clean or bypass the ignition switch.
If the difference between #4 and all the #5s is not very much, those fuses are OK, so just concentrate on the larger drop from the ignition switch.

You can install just ONE relay that will power the fuse panel. That relay can be switched by the ignition switch, so the bike retains full stock-like operation.

.

[Rob S.]

Performance mods? First things first. 4-into-1 pipe and pods.

[Ratboyollie]

Thanks for the tips lads.

I bought the bike in crates and currently doing some frame modifications and assembly (btw supposed to have about 22k km’s on it) Have thrown the electrics on to check if everything works and got it to turn over with quite a nice spark.

Would the shindengen sh775 RR be better then an oem style replacement or just costwise?
Since the later models upgraded from a points ignition to an electronic ignition, later newer coils will not work?
Also can the starter solonoid be upgraded?

Thanks,
Ratboyollie

[Ratboyollie]

@Rob S. - Cheers for the advice! Was allready planning that stuff:

I’m looking into 3d printing a custom air intake with one k&n filter off to the side.
Also going to build an 4/2/1 exhaust with short megaton muffler.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

The SH775 or similar series type R/R is better than any that Suzuki ever put on a GS. The shunt type R/R that Suzuki used are notorious for frying stators. Many many threads on this site to help you wire one up properly to leave out the useless headlamp loop and put all 3 stator wires directly to the SH775. I have no experience with coils so can’t speak to that.

[Ratboyollie]

The SH775 or similar series type R/R is better than any that Suzuki ever put on a GS. The shunt type R/R that Suzuki used are notorious for frying stators. Many many threads on this site to help you wire one up properly to leave out the useless headlamp loop and put all 3 stator wires directly to the SH775. I have no experience with coils so can’t speak to that.

I’ll give it a search, thanks!

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Here's my saga:
'82 GS 750TZ-Lets get this charging system sorted
there are many like it.

[limeex2]

Remove excess weight. Not sure if those run a 630 chain/sprocket. If yes, ditch it.

[Ratboyollie]

Here's my saga:
'82 GS 750TZ-Lets get this charging system sorted
there are many like it.

Would a Yamaha R1 RR 2007 work? Seems to be a similar RR as yours and very affordable.

EDIT: nvm found it works in the chart provided ��

[Ratboyollie]

Remove excess weight. Not sure if those run a 630 chain/sprocket. If yes, ditch it.

What sprocket would you recommend?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Would a Yamaha R1 RR 2007 work? Seems to be a similar RR as yours and very affordable.

EDIT: nvm found it works in the chart provided ��

No idea. What chart?

[Steve]

Would a Yamaha R1 RR 2007 work? Seems to be a similar RR as yours and very affordable.

EDIT: nvm found it works in the chart provided ��

The R1 R/R would techincally "work", but it won't be any better than a Suzuki R/R.

The difference in the SH775 R/R that is recommended is in how it works. The stock Suzuki (and most others) R/R is a shunt-type regulator. It controls the output by shunting the output basically directly to ground several hundred times per second. The AVERAGE output is what you see on your voltmeter. As your load increases (usually by adding lights), it spends less time shunted to ground, but viewed from the stator's viewpoint, the stator is putting full power ALL the time. Some is going to do useful 'stuff', some is going to be wasted. The SH775 R/R is a series-type regulator. It also switches, but it switches ON and OFF. The AVERAGE output will look pretty much the same as the OEM R/R, but viewed at the stator level again, the current flow is less, because nothing is wasted by being shunted to ground. Because there is lower current through the stator, it will run cooler and last longer.

One other thing to watch for when sourcing a regulator from another bike: some bikes have actual alternators, rather than a permanent magnet and stator system. There is no way that they will even begin to work.

.