HD Cylinder Studs

[lhanscom]

I'm going to be doing some work to the bike this winter, and will be taking the head off. I already have the HD studs, and the thought occurred to me that I may not have torqued the head bolts down right when I replaced the head gasket this summer. I did torque things down according to the stock specs, but with the HD studs, are the torque specs different? I do have some oil seepage around the gasket.

Also, when I take the head off, and possibly the block if I get it o-ringed, should I replace the base gasket as well? If I take the block off, do I need to change rings, and hone the cylinders as well? I really don't want too, as they're pretty much new. Thanks for the advice.

[SqDancerLynn1]

The rings should be fine REPLACE all of the gaskets inc base. Have you discussed O ringing the head with machine shop?? Maybe torque to the high end of stock You don't want it too ridiged. The only reason to O ring the head is if you are running big compression #s Turbo, or lots of NOS. Do you have a top end oiling kit?? O ringing the head requires re routing the top end oil & Copper head gasket

[lhanscom]

Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at oringing the block because I hit my nitrous button for the first time this summer, and blew my head gasket immediately. When I did it I just replaced the head gasket, and took the nitrous bottle out for the summer. I don't think a top end oiling kit is required, as Skip had the prior engine build in this bike o-ringed without one, it does have the high volume oil pump. So while it would be nice, I don't think it's crucial. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm also considering just not running nitrous, and having a engine that doesn't burn(valve seal I need to replace), or seep oil. If I don't do the o-ringing, should I still remove the block and do a new base gasket, I don't think the base gasket is leaking right now, if I don't replace it will it just start leaking in short order? Also, whats the best sealing head gasket material? I know copper if I do the o-rings, but if I don't which one is it? I'd like this to be the last time I take the head off for a while. Thanks for all your help.

[katman]

you may want to consider a top end oiler..I beleive the HD studs are larger than stock and thereby restricting oil up to the head some what.

I will defer to our drag racing buddies on this one.

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would replace the base gasket, when you remove the head the cylinders can move and cause a base gasket leak You take your chances ?? If it has been replaced before you may be ok?? Your lucky you only burn't the head gasket and not a piston?? I'v never messed with NOS I undestand it can be tricky to set up DId you have some kind of fuel enrichment?? for the NOS

[lhanscom]

I most definately have 'fuel enrichment', the problem was cylinder preassures. From what I've read o-ringing is a good idea when you get to 2hp per ci, my engine is running 2hp/ci before the 60hp of nitrous hits it, so while I maybe able to get away without the o-rings for a while, I may not too. O-rings solve the problem, ideally you block off the oil passages and run a top end oiler too, but $$$ is just not that free flowing. Which is why I'm leaning towards just replacing the gaskets, and not running nitrous. 150hp is more then enough to get me in trouble anyway :twisted:

[katman]

Yeh Lukester,

I will help you out anyway I can.....

[lhanscom]

And now for post 2000...

I took a look at a spare head I have for a GS700, that I think uses the same basic design as my 1150, except that it comes stock with a topend oiler of sorts. Anyway, it looks like if I just take out the bolts on the side of the head, and run an oil line with a banjo bolt into that whole instead, then run the lines back to an adapter at the oil preassure switch, I have a home made top end oiler. Am I missing anything?

I guess it's fitting my 2000th post should be a technical one, as that's how I got started at this site. Try'n to get back to my roots man. :roll:

[mike J]

Luke, One thing you may want to consider, If you add the oil lines you may need to plug the holes that feed the studs. While I've never looked at one of these kits it seems to me that you won't want oil in both places. Also by drying up the studs you remove a potenial leak around the gasket. Also I've read that like adding extra volume(oil cooler, etc) that you lose pressure. I know this is a problem on say a Z1 Kaw. Since you have the pump gears that may make up for it. Mike J

[massakins]

HD cylinder studs are a great upgrade to a performance motor. Definitely replace the base gasket if you pull the cylinder block. Only replace rings if the end gaps are excessive; only hone cylinder if you replace rings. I tighten my motors with HD studs to 37 ft-lbs; the studs are of no benefit if you don't exert a greater tension on them.