Dynojet startup

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I took it for a test ride today and the power is flat, it flutters. I pulled the plugs and the insulator was still brown at the top but there was black soot at the bottom and around the outside. Number 2 plug was wet with fuel. Maybe I accidentally have the clip in the 3rd notch instead of the 4th. Or mabey the fuel jet is off on that one. I'll check the needle position first. Should I move the clip to the 5th notch or install the jet washers? Those go on top of the fiber washer that is already on top of the clip? Also the choke (fuel enricheners) don't have as big of an effect as they used to. Probably because it's too rich already?

Hi. I'm not sure what "flutter" means. A wet plug could be several things. I'll do my best to help you, but I would ask you to do things that I would if I was there or it was my bike. This would mean testing at higher speeds that is easy where I live, but could be unsafe where you live. I have some questions first.
Are you sure the electrical system is right? Timing, good spark, newer plugs correctly gapped, etc?
Are the valve clearances reasonably correct. This has a big effect on the carb synch and therefore the mixtures.
Are the carbs for SURE clean and are the various o-rings inside them in good condition? You replaced the manifold o-rings, correct?
You have a 5/16" fuel line, the vacuum nipple is capped at carb #3, the gas cap venting is clear, and the two floatbowl vent lines are removed and the vent nipples are open?
You retained the two jet needle plastic spacers, the thicker one ABOVE the e-clip, and the thinner one BELOW the e-clip, when swapping to the DJ needles, correct? (The DJ jetting spacer always goes on top the e-clip, if needed.)
Have you correctly re-adjusted the floats close to .94/95"? Did you check both sides of each float to be sure they're not tweaked?
Are the pilot screws (underneath) about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out? Are the side air screws set for highest rpm?
You said the vacuum synch went well. So the levels are very close to each other. At what rpm did you set them at?
All jets are tightened firmly?
The exhaust header gaskets are in good shape?
Jetting can be difficult, so I have to ask you all this stuff so I can get an idea. ALL THE ABOVE is important. Any short cuts to cleaning, adjusting, not replacing worn parts, etc, will just cause frustration and a waste of time. Let me know what's been done and I'll tell you how to test and get your bike running right.
I would possibly try your e-clips in the 4th position from the top WITH the jetting spacer on top the e-clip. This means a new vacuum synch must be done. But FIRST answer my questions and tell me again how it's running.

[Anonymous]

I don't know how to explain how the power feels I just know it isn't right, it's not crisp. As far as the electrical system goes it probably all needs to be replaced. With the voltage regulator bypassed it only charges at 12v. The plugs are in good condition and the timing and valve adj. is correct. I'm posative the carbs are in good condition. I put in ALL new O rings, ordered from Robert Barr. The header doesn't leak. The floats are set at 23mm with the gasket on both sides of the float. I have 5/16 line and the vent lines are removed. The vacuum line is plugged.
I didn't know the gas cap had a vent, I'll take a closer look at that. Only one plug is wet so I possibly did something wrong on that one. The thick spacers are on top of the clip and the thin is below. Thats how it was when I took it apart. If I put the thin one on top that will make it even richer right? I synched the carbs at about 1500rpm and they were all within 1/2inch of each other. I set the air mixture screws to the highest idle and i will have to recheck the pilot screws underneath. I put the clip in the 4th position from the top.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

First of all, let me correct myself. The thicker spacer, actually called a "ring" goes on top the e-clip. The thinner spacer, actually called a "plate", goes below the e-clip. I've given the correct order several times in past posts, but I made a mistake this time. Just a simple mistake, but it would cause more problems. Sorry. I'm sure that helps you to trust me. I'll go back and edit that.
I'm concerned about your spark. Is it fairly blue and fat? If the spark is weak, the plugs reads/performance will seem like rich jetting. If one cylinder is not burning fuel well, your performance would be as you describe. If you're sure carb # 2 is set up just like the others, and the others cylinders are OK, then it's either a weak spark or low compression that's leaving unburned fuel on the plug. Have you tried another plug in #2? Have you tried swapping #2 and #3 leads to see if the problem follows? Can you take a compression test? Did the bike's plugs do this before the re-jetting? Any blue or whitish smoke from the exhaust?
Something is making #2 run richer or not combusting well. It's possible that your pilot screw could be the cause. If you try turning it in about 1/2 turn, this may help. These screws are not always uniform after re-jetting. But generally, if you have to turn any pilot screw beyond 3/4 of a turn beyond what others are set at to get good results, then this is a sign that you're compensating for another problem. This adjustment would only effect lower speed plug reads. You could have a choke plunger not completely sealing, but that would generally cause only low speed problems too.
My point is, you can't re-jet if one cylinder is suspect or running differently from the others.
Have you tried any higher speed tests with plug reads? Does the wet plug stay wet at all throttle positions?
Jetting is all about throttle position.

[Anonymous]

Well, I already changed the spacers but I moved the clip too. The carbs are not back on the bike yet so it's not that big of a deal. I moved the clip to the #2 notch and put the big spacer underneath and the small on top. This would make it a hair leaner. does it really matter which one is on top as long as it accomplishes the same goal. Like I said I moved the clip from #4 to #2 from the top. It made it so that just a little less of the top of the needle was showing, which would push the needle down more, making it a little leaner. The plugs were all a good color of tan before. Possibly the #2 wire wasn't making a good connection and not firing at all causing the wet plug and flat power? I'll try again tomorrow. Thanks and happy new year!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm sorry about the spacer thing. I realize you may be putting a lot of faith in whatever I type, so a simple mistake like that makes more work. It's not easy to stay close to the computer and stop something before it happens. I tried.
As far as I'm concerned, the two spacers MUST go in the correct order. To swap them in the wrong order would just add confusion. I'm sure there's a mechanical reason Suzuki makes them in two thicknesses. I would put them back right. I also think the e-clip in position 2 from the top will be too lean. At least that's been my experience with several 1000's. Whatever you do, the carbs have to be re-synched after any needle changes.
You said the plugs porcelain was a tan color, which is good. And some darker soot around the top of the threads is typical too. But your performance "sounds" on the rich side. Usually that plug color means a good running motor. So I'm scratching my head a little. I'm still worried about the wet cylinder being the real reason, not major jetting changes.
We have to find out why that cylinder is not burning fuel like the others.
I would check the plug lead for any cracking and for clean/solid connections at the coil and plug cap and verify that the spark is as good as the others.
I have to get out to my in-laws house now. I'll try to check in with you tomorrow. Happy New Year!

[Anonymous]

Well i left the spacers the way they were, I just can't see the harm. I re-synched the carbs at 2500rpm and took it for another ride. Cold.. but what a beautiful day. It ran much better. I brought it back and checked the plugs. They were black but not wet. I'm guessing that the #2 plug wire wasn't connected good before. Anyway I'm pretty happy with the way it runs. I will be moving in a couple of weeks and thats all that I'm going to do on it untill I move. Then I will have a nice garage to work on it in. After I get a few more bucks I'll put an electrex kit and clean up the wiring. Thanks for the help Keith. I'll be in touch later. Kevin.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Sounds like you need a break.
Sounds like the #2 cylinder was hurting the performance the most. At least you have all four burning the same. You're getting there. I know it's a pain, but hang in there.
I hope you'll put the spacers back right and we can get you running good.
It's kind off hard to tell how a thinner spacer vs a thicker one works out. You'd have to measure them and then measure what each groove position on the needle is worth... compare the differences, etc... What a headache. Remember, the DJ needles are tapered much differently than the stockers, so this throws their design off too. Even a small amount changes things. I can see what you're thinking, but I really think it's best to install them right. You're making me feel guilty about the spacer mix up. Like I said, I gave the correct order several times in the past. Just made a mistake that I'd like to make up for.
You know it's rich now, and the plugs were looking a pretty good tan before, except for the wet one, which wasn't the jettings fault. If you put the spacers back right and put the e-clips back to #4 from the top and re-synch, I think you'll be there. MAYBE a jetting spacer on top the e-clip (same #4 position) if it's a little rich. Between those two choices, I actually lean towards the jetting spacer on top the clip. You did say there was a little more soot than you would like. I can't say. Only you saw the plug reads. All I know is tan is good. So you MIGHT be looking at 1 or 2 more needle adjustments, which is the most work with these carbs. Of course, you'll probably have some pilot screw tweaking to do, but that's easy. Remember, to get a good read of the needle circuit, you need to mark the throttle and go a few miles at 1/3 throttle position. Then do a chop test to get an accurate plug read. Just be careful.
Jetting is trial and error. I try to share my experience because I know how frustrating it can be. Believe it or not, I've seen or heard of people taking things apart 10 times and still not be happy. I've had to go through this myself. I've gotten a lot better at it over time, but it's still a challenge with all the variables involved. But if you hang in there, the results will be worth the hassle.
Talk to you soon.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help Keith. Don't feel guilty about the spacers, you and the others on this site have helped me immensely. I have learned so much over the past few months. I really do have to put the project down for a couple of weeks untill the move. If I have to move the needle again I'll put the spacers back right. The plugs were tan before because thats how they were before I installed the jet kit and air pods. This time I cleaned them. I know this is going to take time to dial in perfect but to get it to run good at all with the air pods is something I could have never done without your help. Now, since you're in sunny So Cal, take a ride for those of us who have to wait a few more months.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

It was wet down here most of last week and it's raining right now.
But we do need the water down here.

[RacingJake]

Fire's in the summer and mud slides in the winter. Somethings never change. Been there seen that. Also don't forget that famous smog, looks like a big blanket when you are up in the mountains and the traffic. Grew up in SC then joined the darkside.