Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

125 HP, 1000..possible?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    What Ryan said. The balancing is done after it is welded by shaving the weight off here and there as needed to achive a balance.

    If your going to do what you have said then yes raising the compression a little bit is a good idea too. Just don't take it up so high you can't run it on pump gas anymore. As it is your going to have a high octane only bike when done. You don't want to push it beyond that if your trying to keep it for the street.


    No mater where it lands on the Dyno Richard, it's gonna rock

    Comment


      #17
      Two thoughts based on personal experience:

      1) When I had my cranks welded I simply had the crank pins and flywheels fused for approximately 3/4" where the pieces met using a TIG process with no filler rod added. This required no cleanup and they were never balanced. NOTE: Verify the crank is not twisted prior to welding anything; if all 4 rods line up such that the small ends are all aligned at the same time it is probably OK. Also be very careful where you mount your grounding clamp to ensure there is no arc damage from current traveling through the bearings; attach it to each flywheel and move it for every weld.

      2) If the cam you have chosen has less than .424" lift then you can use the stock shim arrangement. If the lift is greater than .424" it is recommended that the shim underneath the bucket arrangement be used. NOTE: On a street motor I found that the HD valve springs, high lift cams and increased compression were beginning to tax the stock starter
      clutches.

      Have been doing this for over 20 years now in both race and street applications.

      Comment

      Working...
      X