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What's the deal with using a 750 oil pump in an 1100? Is there enough of an increase in oil pressure to make a real difference (ie go through the hassle of tearing apart the engine to install one)? What year/model of 750 would work in an '82 1100E?
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Just remove the clutch cover and clutch assy to get to the oil pump assy.
As for going with a 750 that's your choice.
For me i just use the stock one. It's fine since I'm not running mega spring pressure. And I run the *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ed out of it too with no problems.
I just pull my valve cover off and start her up and watch the oil flow, give it some gas and you really got a mess. No need for me to go that route.
82, 1100E turning into a 13951166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82 -
I only changed the gears, not the pump. You can see the size difference.
I had done this when I started playing with turbo charging to get more flow. I stumbled onto the gearing when a friend gave me a 750 engine from his wrecked GS. It was an old shim, style two valve engine. Maybe a 77-78. They now sell aftermarket gears.Comment
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The oil pumps on a 2 valve 750 and 4xalve 1100's are the same part number, it is only the gears you need to swap as the changes the speed the pump is driven at and increases flow, it only makes a minor difference to pressure.
DinkComment
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It's the gears from a 4 valve 750 that you want...the 2 valve 750 has a low pressure oil system also. The 4-valve motor has plain bearings thus requiring higher oil pressure so they go a different gear ratio than the rollerbearing 4-valve 1100. You MUST change BOTH gears for it to work.Originally posted by Dink
I've had them in mine for 5 years now...
HapComment
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I am going to add the gears to mine, only because I have them & I am also going to add an oil cooler. Otherwise the stock pump gears are fine for 99.9% of the bikes out thereComment
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I put the oil pump gears from APE into my 83 1100ES and my newly installed oil pressure guage reads 22 psi! Rock on!!Comment
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I never knew that you could build up 22 psi on that type of system.Originally posted by CraigComment
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Scotty: My guage doesn't lie. The boys at APE said that their gears would double the pressure, and it looks like is does!Comment
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I see, i was just under the impression that a e model volume system didnt even have over 7 pounds or so stockOriginally posted by CraigComment
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At idle, with the oil hot, on a stock bike, you can expect about 2 PSI. The service manual says you should have between 1.42 PSI and 7.11 PSI. Most of the time, due to few restrictions, the gears will increase flow significantly but pressure see a less dramatic increase.Originally posted by scotty
Since the oil pump is a positive displacement pump, the percent increase in gear ratio will equal the percent increase of flow.
HapComment
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Hi Gents,
I have here in front of me the pumpgears off of a 4-valve 1100, a 4-valve 750 and a 2-valve 750. The gears off of the two 750's are EXACTLY the SAME. Putting 750 gears in an 1100 motor shifts average pressure up from 8 psi to 14 psi. So it is very true that you can measure 22 psi on the revs. I too use this for a turbo setup. It is said that the flow to the head doesn't really increases, but the oil gets there that important bit faster on startup.
Certainly worthwhile when you are using HD studs without a top-end oiler.
Greetings, Marco.Comment
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That is good information to know. I confirmed it with Suzuki part numbers which are the same for both the 16V and the 8V motors (you need all these parts):Originally posted by marcovandevelde
Driven Oil pump gear 16331-45000
GEAR, OIL PUMP DRIVE 16321-45002
SPACER 16325-45001
BEARING 09263-36002
I did not see that much of a jump when I installed the gears in my bike. At idle with a warm motor I see 2 to 3 PSI and at 4000 RPM I see 8 to 10 PSI. I blued my oil pump about 6 to 8 months ago so I know that it is in excellent condition. But I also run heavy-duty studs and a top-end oiler. This resulted in a great increase of oil to the head. I also talked with Greg Cope of Cope Racing at the time I changed gears and he said that he does not see a significant increase pressure when he changes the gears in the motors he builds.Originally posted by marcovandevelde
There are other variables. If you run a top-end oiler you have the option of using a fitting that can divert all oil flow to the top end, leaving the rest of the engine to rely on oil splash for lubrication. You can drill the fitting so you get a partial ratio flow of oil to the top-end and the rest of the engine.
If it's getting up there faster, there has to be an increase in flow I would think. Pressure may not increase but flow would have to.Originally posted by marcovandevelde
What kind of turbo set up are you running? Turbos are cool!
HapComment
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Hi Hap,
For my turbo-setup please see http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ic.php?t=30105
If ya want a pic send me a pm with your email. I'm not into pic-hosting and prefer this.
Wouldn't the flow restriction be in the head, and not the path to it? That's my theory for faster oil delivery anyway. A lot of turbobuilders make a connection for the turbo oilfeed instead of the oiltemp gauge on the oilpress sensor, because they need higher pressure to be able to run the turbo. Almost all of the pressure increase is measurable on the turbo, that's why I thought flow to the head would be unchanged. Ofcourse a lot of flow goes to the turbo too. Let's agree that the flow and pressure get an increase and we are there. \
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Yes turbos are cool but complicated and expensive to build too! And I'm always worrying that it might blow up because I missed a sign... Oh well...
Greetz, Marco.
Greetings, Marco.Comment
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After reading all these comments and claims i was wondering at what rpm point does the ape oil pressure guage read 22 lbs???Comment
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