oil cooler fabricateing

[redliner1973]

I used a metal washer on mine to create that 'seal' your looking for on the adapter. the inner surface was sort of tapered, I pressed it by finger as hard as I could, them mounted the adapter, and with alternatingly tightening the 2 mount screws, press-fitted-to-match the output port on the engine. You MUST have some kind of seal there to make the adapter work. AS for rubber, the only type I can think of that may work, is the 10mm oil cooler 'adapter' seals that work when converting an older VW air-cooled beetle oil cooler, to a newer style cooler. these are available at any good foreign car parts specialist that works/sells air-cooled VW parts. Those cooler seals will withstand high oil temps and not disintegrate like alot of 'home-made' washers will. I used metal on mine because I had access to a metal washer that fit the bill at my work. If you like, I will get one for you and send it. PM on that if you like.

[first timer]

could you please post some pics of the washer, i will also look into the vw washer deal and see how tht goes,

should i then as i am putting some drawings together just make these newer adapters output ports long so there is no need for a seal of any sort it will just press against it.

i may email terry and see what he did if he doens't mind.

-ryan

[redliner1973]

could you please post some pics of the washer, i will also look into the vw washer deal and see how tht goes,

should i then as i am putting some drawings together just make these newer adapters output ports long so there is no need for a seal of any sort it will just press against it.
-ryan

i have yet to figure out why that adapter was not made that way originally. the washer I spoke of pretty much does just that.

I used this 'washer' on the same adapter that gtsg01 posted pics of. If I can get some, i will get a pic of it here.

[first timer]

ok cool , i think i will just add the lenght then to this new adapter i will have made.

-ryan

[Anonymous]

Re: oil cooler fabricateing

some things i noticed is on the home made cooler as with terry's adapter, the oil return is set right behind the oil output and with the lockhart adapter the return is set real far back, is there a reason for this?i looked at the motor and there seems to be 2 sump holes, one in the very back and one in the very front for the return.

Hi Ryan,

I'm the kkmiller whose site you've been looking at. I put those pics there as Chris Dailey didn't have any site space, and I was looking at making something like he describes. In the end I bought an adapter from Terry on the sherrifbuck site that you also mention.

The question about how far back the return nipple should be concern what is happening under the original, non cooled, oil pressure switch.

The oil is pumped up from the sump, it pushes the copper switch plate off the metal (turning the dash light off) and then flows rearwards a little and down again (just where the rear cover bolt is), into the oil galleries and through the motor.

If you look at the Suzuki adapter pics you will see that the oil return opens inside the cover just where that rear bolt is.
The adapter that Terry made for me has the return coming to the same place but from the left side and not the rear.

The main thing for your own design is that the oil gets to where it needs to go. It doesn't really matter which direction it comes from. Luckily there is a fair bit of space inside the adapter, and as long as the oil gets in there it will flow in the right direction.

And on a related matter....

The oil cooler I use is made for me by a friend with a lathe. It is a 250mm length of 45mm dia aluminium billet, drilled through and finned from one end to the other - 2mm fins with 2mm gaps. The oil lines are elbowed into each end. It sits across the bike in the normal position. Bullet proof and very effective when measured with a laser temp gun.

Kim

[Anonymous]

And on another related matter....

The sealing ring that is mentioned in some posts here, is not a part of the adapter Terry made for me. He has a press-fit brass pipe sitting neatly over the outlet hole. That is sufficient. Any extra space is taken up with the gasket between the adapter and the crankcase casting rather than in the pickup point.

Remember that these bikes run high volume very low oil pressure, about 1.5psi. As long as there is sufficient sealing on the pickup point, most of the oil will go through the adapter. Even is there is a bit of leakage, lets say as much as 10% leakage (very high level), that is still 90% of the oil going through the cooler. I would guess at 1% leak being more likely. And the leaked oil will just run through the motor galleries as normal. There is no real pressure drop across the cooler as the pressure is too low in the first place.

Kim

[first timer]

thanks for the updates, i just read your posts and am going to digest them, then see about posting what i have done so far, as well as a couple more questions i have, that may make fabricating easier like not needed a lath.
i see if can get to it this week

-ryan

[first timer]

hey guys here are my PRELIMINARY drawings, i can't garuntee that all the measurements are good but i am pretty confident that they are. i can print out a copy of the bottom plan cut it out and lay it over my orginal oil cooler adapter, and every thing lines up.

right now some issuses i am concerned with are:

when the holes get tapped for the oil fititngs will the threads of the oil fitting cut through the wall?

how easy is it to make the bottom perfectly flat so no leaks can happen, do i need to make a grove for a seal?

what kind of napa oil switch do i need? part #?

how easy are these drawing to read and make sence from?

how easy is it to fabricate?

ok guys those are some of my questions i would like to see anwsered

maybe woodworker or a bored machinest can try to make one of these things using my info and lets see how it goes before i finalize it.

it may be pretty easy to do out of a block of oak and a band saw as a model.

the original drawings and the adapeter had a lathed tub the hooked up to the oil output but don't see any need for it to be round i think we can make it square and and still have enough room to let the oil flow around it. this way it makes it easier for some one to fabricate this adapter them selfs especially if they don't have a metal lathe.

ok as promised here are the PRELIMINARY PDF FILES. the drawings are at full scale if you print using adobe acrobat reader with the scale to fit print option turned off then they are full size.

https://www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/BOTTOM.pdf

https://www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/BACK.pdf

https://www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/DRIVERS_SIDE.pdf

https://www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/FRONT.pdf

https://www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/passange_side.pdf

https://www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/TOP.pdf

PLEASE GIVE ME FEEDBACK SO I CAN IMPROVE THESE.

-ryan

[KEITH KRAUSE]

ryan, I can see you're putting a lot of effort into this so we all can benefit. Thanks for that.
I'm thinking about installing a cooler on my 1000 also. Because I don't know much about them, I'm a little worried to do something wrong and screw up my motor.
Back in the early 80's, the Lockhart Phillips 700 series kit, p/n SU-582, was considered the best oil cooler for the 1000. I'm keeping my fingers crossed to locate one, but I may have to substitute another oil cooler and come up with an adapter. I think "Terry", a member here, has made some adapters, but I haven't questioned him or anyone else about the results yet. I'm naturally leary of "home made" parts because something vital to design/performance could be over looked.
I wonder if anyone has the Lockhart kit on their bike and can share the adapter spec's with us all? It seems it would be easy to take it off and share the measurements.

[katman]

MIne is just an O-ring... On the gs 1100's there is nothing there. The oil presure switch is just hanging there.

[katman]

MIne is just an O-ring... On the gs 1100's there is nothing there. The oil presure switch is just hanging there.

then again your sender is on the side...

[first timer]

hey kieth, these specs are modeled are modeled and take from the lockhart cooler, (i have one) but i wanted a scond one for my 550 hence these drawings, basiclly when you start looking at it the adapter is a pretty simple thing. oil out, oil in. the parts tha tyou need to be carfull with are how tall the tower is , if it's not to tall enough then then there is a little space between the tower and the oil output port and the oil will just squirt by and be sent right to the oil input port. no harm done but no oil being sent into the cooler either. pull your ol pressure switch, it is real simple. under there, there is a oil ring that seal it so no worry about messing up a gasket.
another concern is being able to make the bottom part flat and smooth enough so it won't allow oil to sep out. other then that my design is pretty solid and a good machist should be about to fab one of these pretty easy. with the tower it can just be made a little longer and can be ground down a little at a time till it fit nice.

i'll let you know how it goes in a couple weeks i may have a machist to do this for me.

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/shoebox.msnw?Page=Last

here are some picks of the lochart adapter, it's basiclly the same as mine, just not with the old pressure switch i hope to use a smaller one.


-ryan

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks ryan. Excuse my ignorance with this. Does the Lockhart adapter still use the stock pressure switch?

[first timer]

hey guys the process still marches along just want to share the part number of the oil pressure switch i found that was talked about in the artical that started this all.

it's a napa oil pressure switch .5 psi to 2 psi part number op6115

ryan

[Ghostgs1]

I am planning to make an adapter based upon your drawings. Thanks for all your work on it. Have you used your design successfully? Has anyone else? Any problems to watch for? Thanks again.