oil cooler fabricateing

[first timer]

hey guys, i'm working on making a set of easy to read cad/pdf drawing to show you how to fab up a oil cooler for your 2v bikes. i am working off of some info i found here

http://users.tpg.com.au/kkmiller/bike/OilCoolerAdapter.htm

and measurements i am taking off of a existing lockhart philips oil adapter i have.

terry's adapter http://members.optusnet.com.au/~sher...k/gallery.html

some things i noticed is on the home made cooler as with terry's adapter, the oil return is set right behind the oil output and with the lockhart adapter the return is set real far back, is there a reason for this?i looked at the motor and there seems to be 2 sump holes, one in the very back and one in the very front for the return.

i rather place a return hole as far back as possable because what i have now with the return next to output like terrys is a very thin wall (about 1/16") seperating the return hole from one of the mounting holes, then if i am to tap it for fittings the thread will bite even deeper making it even thiner. But if i move the return back i should have enough room.

also i notice when i placed the lockhart adapter on the motor, the output nipple that should sit flush or snug or even inside the output port of the motor seems a little far away, can anyone measure the depth of the output nipple.
the output nipple would sit agaist the oil output port of the motor. i get about 9/16's on the lockhart adapter the guy on the website sez 5/8" should, i just go 5/8's and say sand it down till it fits flush. i guess i could also get some clay and press it in the output port of the motor then put the lockhart adapter in place and tighten it down and see how much the clay compresses.

sorry this is probly way to confusing please feel free to ask me questions. i'm doing this cause if i can come up with the drawing i can have a friend fab one up for me free.

i can email my working cad drawing if you want to take a look to see what i am talking about, but you will need autocad 2000.

-ryan

[RJ]

Check out www.oldkawman.com and click onto the oil cooler fab project for some more useful info.

[nastyjones]

I might be tempted to use a cooler of a 1200 Bandit.

Paul

[first timer]

here is what he was talking about,

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-8051/c-10101

but i need info on making the adapter, i know how the oil cycles thru the motor i just need som clearifcation.

thanks, for the tip on the cooler, they seem like a good design for cheap,

to bad i got me a derale and a lockhart to choose from

-ryan

[Nerobro]

Well... I have been looking at the problem myself. I don't see why to go through all of that complexity. There is an oil pressure sender behind the cylinders of every GS. Why not just put a simple "t" fitting in there to get an oil supply.

As for oil return, that's the fun question. On steve's bike, the top end oil returns through the timing chain hole. Why not do that ourselves.

No machining necessary, and you dump cool oil into the head. Where our bikes need cooling anyway. :-) We would need to put a line restrictor in there as well, just for sanitys sake.

Is there another reason for the complex nature of those other adapters?

I figure if there is going to be machining involved, why not just do an adapter like the honda design. And use "normal" oil filters ;-)

I am going to go downstairs and doubble check what I've said.

[first timer]

it's not that hard this "adapter, it's just gettign the info right the first time.

-ryan

[first timer]

anyone got any ideas about the return hole placement

-ryan

[Nerobro]

my first throught is to dump it in the valvecovers. :-)

Otherwise, I think we have a low pressure zone in the oil filter cap that we can exploit.

[first timer]

thats creating more work for yourself, it just needs to be dumped back into the oil presure switch area, and as far as i can tell i can do it in the front of the oil presure switch houseing or the back, there are two return holes, the orginal lochart oil adapter for the 2v motors dumped the oil into the rear return. i just wanted to figure out why both terry and this other guy on line put the return right behind the output port.

i guess i could keep the return in the middle but i may have to tighten up my tolerances a little, wich will make it harder for people to fabricate.

would anyone mind taking a look at my work so far and criticing the design.

-ryan

[Nerobro]

If you can get me a drawing I'll gladly take a look at it.

[gtsg01]

I just posted four pictures of an old styls oil cooler adapter in the GSGarage. Thry are pretty self explanatory.

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/shoebox.msnw?Page=Last

All of the oil comes from the oil filter through the center port of the adapter to the cooler. The oil from the cooler comes back into the adapter and is routed to the transmission and crankshaft through the aft and forward galleys in the block.

If you dump the oil back into the head, you will dump all of the oil pressure as well

If you don't bring pressurized oil back into the adapter, you will fry the engine PDQ.

[Planecrazy]

I will be most interested in how this all plays out, and if you can get your buddy to fab up two adapters I'll gladly flip a few bucks his way for the trouble! Then all I have to do is obtain an appropriate cooler to attach to it!

Regards,
Steve 8)

[first timer]

I just posted four pictures of an old styls oil cooler adapter in the GSGarage. Thry are pretty self explanatory.

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/shoebox.msnw?Page=Last

All of the oil comes from the oil filter through the center port of the adapter to the cooler. The oil from the cooler comes back into the adapter and is routed to the transmission and crankshaft through the aft and forward galleys in the block.

If you dump the oil back into the head, you will dump all of the oil pressure as well

If you don't bring pressurized oil back into the adapter, you will fry the engine PDQ.

thank you gts, that is the exact cooler i adapter that i am working off, an you gave em a vital clue that my adapter didn't come with, the rubber wash for the center port. i suspected that the center port on the adapter was not making contact with the center output port on the motor and you pics confirm this that i rubber washer is needed.

could you please take a couple pics of just the washer or confirm it is just a standard rubber washer with nothing fancy and give me a thickness of it so i can go buy one. that would be very helpful.

now back to my second question does anyone have a preferance to where the oil return hole should be? should it be closer to the transmission return hole like shown in gts pics or should it be closer to crank case hole (probly not possable due to engine fins)

i guess that is why some have altered the design and put the return hole closer to the center of both holes. does that really matter though in a pressureised system should both holes be getting about the same amout of oil if it is being pushed into that space.

on a side note why should i stray from a design that manufactures settled on like in gts pics.



-ryan

steve we will see how things go, i am not to sure of this guys capcity to do more then one, it's kinda a favor to me. but should be real easy for a shop to make for you if they have good drawing which i am hoping to have soon

[gtsg01]

My Camera won't focus on the washer at a distance close enough to show the details. I have posted a drawing (use the previous link that shows the configuration.

It has a groove that the adapter pipe slips onto. I am not sure that this is critical, if you can find a rubber washer that has the correct ID x OD x thickness to create the pressure seal.

I hope this is helpful. Happy Hunting.

[first timer]

hey thanks gts,

anyone have any ideas where one could get one of these little guys,

[img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VgA9A9oaxKZjRJcG0EdPBjr*mfvxpxLy*6v6DoLf24nJlSmCu xj06CdtL1Jrk1FhXYq0r7phRveePt80AXxQ6CgAk1Kw8B9WUYM q4gNDOFp9ps2xuwcp4yGGQASauex4/oil%20cooler%20washer.jpg[/img]

i thought about using a rubber washer that is 1/2 the thinkness of .15 since that is how far the metel shoud be from the output port, but am a little concerned that the washer may slip out of place and possablely plug a passage and do damage.

any ideas would be appricated.

-ryan