I thought I read that you are using an air shifter. I want to get one of those. Would you describe some of the problems that you ran into when getting it syncronized if that is necessary and Also did you experience any whatevers 8O when getting used to how long to hold the button down?
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Anonymous
Jake
I thought I read that you are using an air shifter. I want to get one of those. Would you describe some of the problems that you ran into when getting it syncronized if that is necessary and Also did you experience any whatevers 8O when getting used to how long to hold the button down?
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Paul
Jake, I've gotta agree with FMT - get the crank welded. It only costs pennies! I know that a welded crank can still break, but un-welded it can (and probably will!) twist, then all the timing is shot at least - at worst the pistons will hammer the valves, break them off, shatter the pistons then put a hole in that nice new block you've got.
It just isn't worth the risk for a few pennies.
You don't need insurance to drive down the road, but if you have an accident you do!
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My airshifter is an electric over air and I use a relay to ground my ignition kill circuit on my msd mc2 ignition. I use a reverse shift pattern and my shifter pushes down on the lever to shift into the next higher gear. The only way to adjust the kill time on mine is by holding the button down longer. The better air shifter's have a kill box that you can adjust the kill time from something like 50 to 90 milla-seconds. They work on the neg side of the coils and they may cause a back fire sometimes.
Airshifter work great when you get them dialed in. The only problem is charging up the bottle after 2 runs. I know a few folks that install a small 12 air compressor like you find at auto zone or pep boys on their bike and they just flip the switch on for 15 seconds and they are ready to go. If you don't go that route you'll still need to buy one so that you can service the bottle in the pits. It take's a little time to find a good place to install the the bottle and soleniod plus you have to mount the actuator and clevis on the shifter lever.
Nothing major and do-able on a weekend. Airshifter's do tend to spoil you.1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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Anonymous
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GSJimbo
I agree with Paul there is no way I would build a GS motor with out getting or welding the crank,I learned the hard way, twisted one in a stocker......just my two cents..........
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Air shifter isnt that hard or complicated. MRE makes a nice bolt on kit that works fine. You can have air in your swingarm or a tank. Swingarm has to be airtight. Most racers bring a small gas cylinder and recharge their tanks with it using air or nitrogen. Once installed and charged you simply push the button when you want to shift, preferably off a shift light.
There are also electric shifters available. Dale Walker makes one. No air involved.EULC ON
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lecroy
I figured the output bearing would have failed by now, but it hasn't. Its a stock basket as well isn't it? And this is still holding up. I thought the only problem was tieing the engine into frame. With your luck, play the lotto and buy a new bike.
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Hoomgar
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All that's left is to install a new oil pump gear cir-cilp and clutch stuff and then she's done. Can't really see any differance except the MTC logo on the block, but once you start it you know that it's not your everyday GS.
The chips are set at 6k launch, 8k shift and 9k max for the first time out to break everything in.1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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lecroy
Great job!! We need an audio file to hear this bad boy. I love that seat!!! No one ever seems to make a nice soft seat on their drag bike.
I finally got the last part for the turbo I lost last summer. I put it back together the other night. Still waiting on the new sprockets and some warm weather...
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Anonymous
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Hey Lecroy i can ops check that turbo for you, just send it my way as for the seat it's just a little plywood, foam, cover and a few staples.
FMT, it's a Vance and Hines Pro pipe exhaust and it's made for drag racing. Takes alittle work to mod the rear brake assy too. There's no baffle in the pipe and it's loud so if you want to *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$off the neighbors within a 1/2 mile then this is the ticket.1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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lecroy
The sidewinders are common on a drag bike. You have to meet the 2" clearence with 10 lbs pressure rule. Some pipes take up more than 2". Better to run it out the side and drop the bike down. A low bike is a happy bike.
You have foam!!! I figured you left that part out. I have seen a few with no seat. They just sit on the glass.
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Yeah it would be quite a sight to watch all these fast bike's without any butt/back support. Lets see who is the real man just by hanging on to the handlebars
You learn real quick when you run bars that a stationary butt is a happy butt. I learned the hard way last year and almost had to change my name to RacingJoyce1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82
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lecroy
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