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1395 is completed.... Track time completed

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    1395 is completed.... Track time completed

    Slapped the tranny and crank in and alittle RTV and she's back in the bike. Also pop the pistons and block in and should be ready for an ops check tomorrow once the head is on.





    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

    #2
    Did you weld the crank??

    Comment


      #3
      Not yet, but will see how it goes this year 8O

      At least the head is on now :twisted:

      1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
      1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
      1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
      1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
      01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

      Comment


        #4
        That should be a real beast. Im surprised that you are willing to take a chance wih an unwelded crank though. On an engine of that size i mean.

        Comment


          #5
          Yeah I know what you mean. I figured it should have twisted by now, but what the heck. If I make it bullet proof then I'd get bored next winter.

          I've seen cranks blow up and then exit the engine, even the welded one do it. So this year I'll take a chance.

          I may not have a Hayabusa yet but I can say it's bigger than one.
          1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
          1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
          1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
          1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
          01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by RacingJake
            Yeah I know what you mean. I figured it should have twisted by now, but what the heck. If I make it bullet proof then I'd get bored next winter.

            I've seen cranks blow up and then exit the engine, even the welded one do it. So this year I'll take a chance.

            I may not have a Hayabusa yet but I can say it's bigger than one.
            You dont actually think that a hyabusa is quicker than your ride Jake??

            Comment


              #7
              Way to go Jake. Lookin good. SHould sound wicked.

              Comment


                #8
                Hey TJ, good to see someones making some progress. What's up with that one nice new looking piston?? You need to get this thing running so it won't look so out of place. It's going to be interesting to see how much it improves your time and MPH. I sure can't hurt it.

                I have been making a few mods to my old bike this winter but it's been slow. Seems like every time I turn around something else is wrong. I finally have all the new parts for my turbocharger that I lost last summer. About the only thing that was good were the castings and the compressor wheel. Everything else is new. I also picked up a new regulator to try and tame the pressure dips with the nitrous.

                I bought an old N2O tank at a car swap meet about 20 years ago. It's a "D" cylinder made of steel. I think I paid $20 back then with all the fittings. I never used it because I had a license to buy medical grade N2O and I would just rent the "E" cylinders. Now this is no longer an option. So I sent the old tank off to get certified which was another $28. Then $4/Lb refill charge with the crappy gas. The tank has the old style yoke clamp. When I took it in to get filled the kid just looked at me. "I have never seen a fitting like that". I had made up a recharge kit ahead of time with a 4N fitting. Good thing. N2O sure has come a LONG way in the last 20 years.

                So much left to do...

                Comment


                  #9
                  I bought the mtc block and pistons from The Broker on DB.com and I did'nt like one of the pistons. He said he would replace it but has'nt (guess he has other major problems if you been over there) so I did just for peace of mind.

                  Got the carbs and tank on and she fired up tonight sounded pretty good too.

                  I'd like to drop another .5 sec and anything over 115 in the 1/8. Got my fingers crossed. I think it's do-able cause the 1166 dropped .5 and that was only 91cc more and 1395 to 1166 is 229cc more

                  Tomorrow it's a valve adjustment and chip reduction, going to keep it below 9K for redline and shift at 8.5k. Should be at the track in a few more weeks.

                  I saw a turbo kit for a Bandit under 2K couple days ago on DB or SB. Come to think of it my Falcon needs a n20 recharged too, last refill was $3.75 a pound.

                  Anyhow get her done, the tracks will be opening soon.
                  1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                  1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                  1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                  1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                  01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by FoolMeTwice
                    Originally posted by RacingJake
                    Yeah I know what you mean. I figured it should have twisted by now, but what the heck. If I make it bullet proof then I'd get bored next winter.

                    I've seen cranks blow up and then exit the engine, even the welded one do it. So this year I'll take a chance.

                    I may not have a Hayabusa yet but I can say it's bigger than one.
                    You dont actually think that a hyabusa is quicker than your ride Jake??
                    I hope
                    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by rosco15
                      Way to go Jake. Lookin good. SHould sound wicked.
                      Now that's what I'm taking about with the Pro Pipe, just like the big boy's
                      1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                      1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                      1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                      1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                      01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                      Comment


                        #12
                        115 in the 1/8.
                        Should not be a problem for you. I use 9.5 as a upper limit as well. What did you end up with for sprockets, 15:44? What gear r u in at the end of the 8th?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm running 14-46 gearing and I'd cross the line in fourth gear. If i stayed on it the shift light would come on about 100 feet or so past the line.

                          I should be good with the gearing and if the shift lite comes on before the line then I'll know it's picked up some speed.
                          1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                          1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                          1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                          1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                          01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Not sure of your tire size, but running the numbers with a 26" tire if you were against the rev limiter at the end your speed would be 112. With a 28" tire, it would be around 120. Not too bad. Whats funny is my old GS can't run that speed in the 1/4.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              With a set of bars and more gear I bet you could.

                              I'm running a M/T 26x7 on a 5.5 rim. My chart shows 8275 rpms at 102mph and 115mph at 9300 rpms so both our math is good. I know the slick is slowing me down alittle at the top end and if I was running a 170 tire my mph may be around 107. But after getting the backend loose at the start and a few times midway down the track with the smaller tires, I'm more than happier to give up a few mph's with the slick.

                              I just can't wait until I get a few timeslips and compare them to my best from last year. They should show improvement at the 60, 330 and 660 so I think it's in the bag.
                              1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                              1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                              1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                              1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                              01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                              Comment

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