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Originally posted by Paul
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Not after I dismounted the clutch now, I'll check what the price for new steels is first. -
Was your supplier the scrap yard? No one sells different plates like this in a kit do they???Comment
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Nopp, brand new, I still have the recipt 8OOriginally posted by lecroy
I thought twice before I mounted them, but what the heck, no harm done, it worked so far, even after severel miles in a stock engine, and then in a tuned engine apart from that I had to use HD-springs in the tuned engine.Comment
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About putting an 1100 basket into a 1000..... is that a bolt in direct swap? I have a 78 1000 with a few mods and the clutch slips up hill under heavy acceleration. I haven't even looked at the clutch yet, just checking the thread for ideas and advice. If I did need to replace the clutch can I also upgrade by putting in an 1100 basket. If so what year?Comment
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The early 80's 1100 basket and maybe others, is almost a direct fit. The basket is a little bit long and will not fit behind the case without minor machining. When I installed mine, I first hand cut the part of the cases the basket fits behind. I took off just enough material that I felt safe with. You only need to take material off the cases where the basket comes in close proximity to it. Then I cut down the basket in a lathe (easy) until it would JUST fit behind the cases. The longer you leave the basket, the more clutch plates you can fit inside of it. More plates equals more surface area. More surface area allows you to run less required spring pressure to keep clutch from slipping. I currently have an MTC "forged" basket for a GS1100 in my motor (79 GS1000) and it should last forever......... BillyComment
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swapping basket
I just tried to swap a clutch basket from a 81 gs 1100g into a 82 gs1100e, the swap didnt go well as the driven gear was angled cut but in a different direction, Did i do something wrong?Comment
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Back in 1985 when I first built my GS1000 based drag-bike I used an 1100 basket. I had to shorten the basket to get it in the standard cases. I also "fine" turned then polished the O/D. This was to reduce oil drag. I also either drilled extra holes or enlarged existing holes in the rear of the basket - that was to let oil out of clutch easier. Obviously I also installed & welded stainless rivets/backplate at the same time.
Somehow something didn't work out though, because I always had to use a 1/8" spacer under the cover casing - not a problem, but I never could work out why I had to use it! Nor could anyone else!
Even Jack O'Malley of Orient express was puzzled.Comment
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Using a stock GS1000 basket in mine, except I've added a HD backing plate/springs/rivet upgrade. Using 6 OEM GS750 springs (total of 288#* of force at 1"), plus weighted the MRE lockup with 4 aluminum and 2 steel bolts, 4 aluminum and 2 steel nuts (29.2 grams). Using the APE clutch plates and OEM steels; all steels are bead blasted to remove glaze and discoloration. Unless metal is "smeared" or warpage is found, the steels are reused.
This has lasted several dozen passes at 25# of boost, with a 700# bike/rider, 7" slick and wheelie bar. 60 foot times suggest less spring pressure and MPH asks for more lockup weight.
Best to date is 5.66et @ 128 MPH in 1/8 mile. Oh yeah, Lecroy, that was with 225 hp.
* - Spring rates only good for comparison to others I use.
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Do yourself and your engine cases a favor and get rid of that basket. It is a time bomb. You probably do need a lock up with your set-up based on your combined weight and HP figures.....The backing plate, springs and rivets will probably still be intact after the basket blows up. I was lucky when mine came apart, it only took out my engine cases. No crank or block damage......BadBillyBOriginally posted by massakinsComment
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Nice looking bike. Looks like my Mr. Turbo kit. I finally routed my pipe forward like yours.
What carb, turbo, transmission, gearing r u using?
Can we see some more pictures of it??????Comment
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I used to share the same concern for motor deterioration. As a result I've got two sets of straight cut gears on the shelf now. But also several extra motors. This thing just keeps on ticking and I'm waiting for the need to upgrade it. BTW, it has been reinforced as follows: welded crank, Wiseco 1085cc pistons (at 10.25-1 ratio(!)), HD cylinder studs, manual cam chain tensioner, oil restrictor, DYNA 4000 igniton, Rajay F40 turbo, Mikuni HSR42 carb and MRE clutch lockup. But it still uses a stock transmission, cases, starter clutch, timing advancer, head/cams/valves/valve springs/retainers. Final gearing is 15/45.
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Sounds very similar to my old granny bike. You have a lot newer ignition. I have some friend that run the SP4000 on all the their bikes and they really like them. The only problem I have heard of was with the remote display. Your a lot higher compression. Why so high anyway??
I want to try a different carb at some point, but I have been cutting up these old Keihins so long I have grown attached to them. Was looking at an S&S alcohol turbo carb, but it seems like they have the same problems with leaking past the seat as the Keihins did. They talk about needing a scavage pump or a holding tank. There just seems to be no clean way to get fuel into these things. A lot of people seem to like the HSR42, but I have not seen anyone using it with methanol. I'm not sure of the problems I would run into.
I like the aluminum pipes!
Have you ever tried to drop the gearing down to say 15:39 or 15:42, or are you able to keep it under pressure with the 45? What size rear tire do you have on it?Comment
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Than I would say the clutch basket, the connecting rods, the stock buckets/shims and the valve springs in your motor are the weakest link.....I hear what your saying though, the need hasn't arose yet. I always build a motor with reliability as the most important factor even if it's a bracket bike.....I had a GS 1000 connecting rod let go on me for no apparent reason at a national event and it cost me plenty. The small end of the rod just opened up. I still have the piece that broke off and the piston that it knocked a hole through. I now have GS 1100 4v connecting rods in my 1000 2v and if you hold them side by side you will see they are much beefier. They are slightly longer (which is good) and require a custom base gasket set up......The "shim under" buckets and race valve springs would also be highly recommended for obvious reasons......And why aren't you running a 1-2.....2-3....auto transmission ?? If correctly done, its bulletproof in our motors and is worth almost 2 tenths in your ET...........I made my own and it works flawless......BadBillyBOriginally posted by massakinsComment
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hey bad billy email me or PM me some time on how to make a 1-2 or a 1-2-3 auto trans....we have a billet 5 speed auto in one bike and in my bike i just have a back cut, how can i turn a stock gs 1100 trans into a semi auto like that? thanks richieComment
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I'm using the high compression to get out of the hole; initially had a .060" base gasket, but replaced it with stock (.018"). Next motor is on the bench as we speak and has 1055cc turbo pistons (i.e. 7-8 to 1 ratio). With stock lift cams I see no need to change valve shim arrangement as RPM is no different than a stock motor. Will install HD valve springs on new motor as well to ensure that boost isn't lifting the intakes off their seats prematurely. Really no need on exhaust side. As I said, it doesn't run any more RPMs than a stock motor. The VP C16 fuel does help an awful lot to live with compression, though.
Tried 15/39, 41 and 43 gearing at different times, but was wrestling with fuel pressure, jetting and clutch issues all at the same time. Now that they are starting to subside it is time to repeat the cycle, albeit in reverse order.
Stock transmission is my own limits, to manage costs. No big block or OS sleeves and stock transmission. Interested in seeing how far I can go with this combo. Might break tomorrow. We'll see.Comment
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