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Hi Lecroy,
Sorry, thought it was about the oil issue. I don't think that the Gs750 gears are able to satisfy the spec-needs for my turbo either, but everyone seems to do it this way and the turbos keep running ok. The hefty carb problems were caused by old and brittle o-rings in the T-s that connect to the floatbowls. This way, because of the pressure leaks, the fuel gets blown back instead of drawn in. Fixed now. Liked your site by the way!
Dictator,
After everything I've read about the 2v GS, I have to agree with CBXChris that it might not be the best engine for turbo-ing. So, what I would do is keep the 2v motor as it is, only put an extra steel plate in the clutch, then build a ''shadytree'' turbosystem on it which is limited to 7psi. It'll probably give something like 140-160HP. This will keep the engine in one piece, and if you have the money/ inclination you can put a ''seriously adapted'' 4v 1100 engine in later, or rebuild the 2v. The frame stuff sounds cool! Must be a major improvement. BTW do you have CV carbs or the older slide carbs on it? The sliders aren't suitable for pressure I'm afraid. :?
So, think about it some more (and save up in the mean time
) and don't start doing anything on the ''shadytree'' turbo until you have summer-time proof from me that all works absolutely OK, dyno sheet and all.
Greetz, Marco.
Ps: Busas are great but my turbobike costs about $3500 all-in, where a Turbobusa may set you back at least $10.000. Not really in the same league. And how many times do you see one on the road?
Sorry, thought it was about the oil issue. I don't think that the Gs750 gears are able to satisfy the spec-needs for my turbo either, but everyone seems to do it this way and the turbos keep running ok. The hefty carb problems were caused by old and brittle o-rings in the T-s that connect to the floatbowls. This way, because of the pressure leaks, the fuel gets blown back instead of drawn in. Fixed now. Liked your site by the way!
Dictator,
After everything I've read about the 2v GS, I have to agree with CBXChris that it might not be the best engine for turbo-ing. So, what I would do is keep the 2v motor as it is, only put an extra steel plate in the clutch, then build a ''shadytree'' turbosystem on it which is limited to 7psi. It'll probably give something like 140-160HP. This will keep the engine in one piece, and if you have the money/ inclination you can put a ''seriously adapted'' 4v 1100 engine in later, or rebuild the 2v. The frame stuff sounds cool! Must be a major improvement. BTW do you have CV carbs or the older slide carbs on it? The sliders aren't suitable for pressure I'm afraid. :?
So, think about it some more (and save up in the mean time
) and don't start doing anything on the ''shadytree'' turbo until you have summer-time proof from me that all works absolutely OK, dyno sheet and all.Greetz, Marco.
Ps: Busas are great but my turbobike costs about $3500 all-in, where a Turbobusa may set you back at least $10.000. Not really in the same league. And how many times do you see one on the road?
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