Now quit f*ckin' around and give me the magic piece of advice that will fix my bike!*
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New boots! Still won't idle.
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UncleMike
Originally posted by Jethro View Post
Now quit f*ckin' around and give me the magic piece of advice that will fix my bike!*
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UncleMike
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Sounds like your bowls are running out of gas. Try richening your float height. Do you have a 5/16" fuel line that doesn't have a kink when you lower the tank the last few inches?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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UncleMike
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostSounds like your bowls are running out of gas. Try richening your float height. Do you have a 5/16" fuel line that doesn't have a kink when you lower the tank the last few inches?
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If your float adjustment is off, yes. But I'm just throwing out suggestions because as many times I've had my carbs on and off I feel I should be a pro. When your bike stalls pull your plugs and see if it's rich or lean.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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UncleMike
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostIf your float adjustment is off, yes. But I'm just throwing out suggestions because as many times I've had my carbs on and off I feel I should be a pro. When your bike stalls pull your plugs and see if it's rich or lean.
The bike has stalled many times since putting new plugs in. Does starting it again after it has stalled ruin the reading I'd get on the plugs? How does that work?
Thank you, thank you, thank you for trying! I'm trying to get to Moosehead!
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Clean the plugs and try it. For example a throttle chop, you cut the engine at the troubled circuit and cruise to the side of the road with clutch in so you get the reading at that exact moment. So if you try to start it and run it you won't get the correct reading.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
Getting late and I didn't read all the other replies.
Some quick thoughts...
Does it still have the problem if you turn the petcock lever to PRIME?
If using the gas tank, does removing the gas cap help? If using a fuel reservoir, is it vented adequately?
Is the throttle cable adjusted EXACTLY per factory recommendation?
If you deliberately turn up the idle speed an additional 200 rpm's (just for testing purposes), will it now hold an idle?And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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UncleMike
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostClean the plugs and try it. For example a throttle chop, you cut the engine at the troubled circuit and cruise to the side of the road with clutch in so you get the reading at that exact moment. So if you try to start it and run it you won't get the correct reading.
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UncleMike
Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View PostGetting late and I didn't read all the other replies.
Some quick thoughts...
Does it still have the problem if you turn the petcock lever to PRIME?
If using the gas tank, does removing the gas cap help? If using a fuel reservoir, is it vented adequately?
Is the throttle cable adjusted EXACTLY per factory recommendation?
If you deliberately turn up the idle speed an additional 200 rpm's (just for testing purposes), will it now hold an idle?
I'll let you know about the throttle cable, but yes, turning up the idle speed will allow it to idle, albeit at 1500 or higher.
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retchidxs
is there any chance your sparkplug wires are bad? my brothers ford wouldnt idle and he had the shop look at it and they fixed the plugwires and did a idle adjust. i read you did the idle so could you have a weak spark you think and when the motor heats up and revs up it gets stronger? crazy idea? i'm just guessing.
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UncleMike
Originally posted by retchidxs View Postis there any chance your sparkplug wires are bad? my brothers ford wouldnt idle and he had the shop look at it and they fixed the plugwires and did a idle adjust. i read you did the idle so could you have a weak spark you think and when the motor heats up and revs up it gets stronger? crazy idea? i'm just guessing.
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 17921
- The only Henniker on earth
Boy has been working on it since 7:22 this morning!! You are on the path, I know it!!!
Yes, float heights can make or break how a bike idles. I use a clear tube attached to the float bowl drains to confirm the float heights, and make sure they are perfect. Remember that idleing (the pilot jet in general) is the most complex function a carb performs.
Really sounds like fuel starvation of some sort to me. Even with dirty carbs with weak spark, if it idles for ANY amount of time (even a few seconds) you should be able to get it to idle- if it is getting fuel. Fuel is the only thing that could change so fast, due to the float needles, or flow to the carbs, float needle seat filter, float bowl vents, fuel line...
You are probably sick of questions that you have already been over, but lets start at the beginning anyway...
1. Gas cap vent is ok as you said
2. Petcock flows nicely
3. Fuel line is 5/16" ID? As you asid not kinked.
4. Vaccum line is free and attached
5. Float bowl gaskets are sealing well? This is an often overlooked air leak.
6. Float heights are correct?
7. The little port at the side of the float bowl for the starter jet is free?
8. The starter jet tube is clean and clear?
9. Float needle seats were cleaned? Filters are clear?
10. Pilot jet was removed and is clear?
11. Emulsion tube was removed and cleaned?
12. All jets and needles are stock sizes?
13. Mixture screws are cleaned and in good shape?
14. There are no air blockages?
15. The slides are in good shape? Diaphragms are solid?
Boy, I don't know what else to cover! The plug reads are big. You can get an idea no matter how dirty the plugs are. If it stalls out, and they are white or just dry, you may lack fuel. If they are wet when it stalls, you may have a spark issue. If they are sooty, and dirty, you lack air.Currently bikeless
'81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
'06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."
I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.
"Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt
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waterman
Two other simple points to consider is battery charge and fresh gas. In the last month I have pulled my hair out do to poor gas (would not even run in my lawnmower) and a slowly discharging battery causing all sorts of idle and starting problems. Not sure it is your problem but do eliminate the obvious first.
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UncleMike
Sorry guys, I was doing factory tours all day to prepare for a video script I've gotta write.
So if I go down there right now, start her up and let her stall out like normal and pull the plugs, we should get a good read?
Should I clean the plugs first? If so, how?
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