New boots! Still won't idle.

[RacingJake]

Still sounds like a carb problem.

Pull the fuel line from the carbs and turn the fuel one and it should pour out like a garden hose

Start the bike up for a few seconds then turn it off and feel each exhaust pipe for heat. If you have a cold pipe then check that carb and plug.

Check the throttle plates with the carbs off the engine. Open them up and let them close to see if one has a bigger opening or is sticking.

Clean the slow speed curcit and fuel bowl level

PS it's something simple........ that's the way Murphy works :???:

[Jethro]

I think I posted thise earlier, but the most wacky intake leak that I had the displeasure to experience on my bike was at the float bowl gasket. The gasket was fine, but I had forgot to tighten up the float bowl screws. You would think that gas would leak from there, but I was just tuning while on the centerstand. Took me hours to figure out. Air was getting sucked in through there, and either messing with the mix or the fuel delivery.

You have a new vaccum line, so that shouldn't be it.

Have you tried hooking up a auxilary fuel source? Sometimes the petcock can operate properly, shut on and off with vaccum and generally seem fine, but it actually leaks a little air into the #2 carb. I would probably try to hook up some other fuel source while it's in the driveway being tuned to rule out a bad petcock. Barring that, put it on prime to run and block off the vaccum port with a short section of 1/4" line that is plugged.

The spray test is not always a clear indicator of air leaks, but you have new boots, so that shouldn't be an issue there as long as they are installed correctly.

As Keith said, the advance unit is a good thing to check. Suzuki suggests lubricating the unit from time to time. If it's sticking, you'll never get it to idle well. If you have a timing light, it would be a good idea to check if it is timed correctly, and advancing properly. This will also tell you if you are getting consistant spark on all 4 wires.

I'm with Keith, I don't think we are dealing with a valve/compression problem. I think the electrical system is questionable for sure. I hate electrics...

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Are you positive the manifolds were installed correctly? Meaning, are they all the same or was each manifold meant for a specific cylinder? All four manifolds sold under the same part number? Are they genuine Suzuki or aftermarket? Any manifold o-rings involved? Sorry if I'm bringing up any questions already answered. This thread is long and it's easier this way. Just trying to eliminate possibilities.
New question. Was the bike OK before/at one time? Did you inherit this problem? If it was OK, did it start doing this after you did some work on it? Did it start doing it after sitting for some time or ?

[Clone]

You know Mike, you are a saint, SERIOUSLY I would have put a rag in the gas tank and lit it with the zippo and walked away A LONG TIME AGO.](*,)

Keep going guy[-o< for ya.

[UncleMike]

Are you positive the manifolds were installed correctly? Meaning, are they all the same or was each manifold meant for a specific cylinder? All four manifolds sold under the same part number? Are they genuine Suzuki or aftermarket? Any manifold o-rings involved? Sorry if I'm bringing up any questions already answered. This thread is long and it's easier this way. Just trying to eliminate possibilities.
New question. Was the bike OK before/at one time? Did you inherit this problem? If it was OK, did it start doing this after you did some work on it? Did it start doing it after sitting for some time or ?

All the boots were the same part # and genuine Suzuki parts. It's a 16v, so no manifold O-rings.

When I inherited the bike, it required starter fluid to start after sitting for more than two days. A little carb cleaner in the tank stopped that, but the stalling issue was still there.

[UncleMike]

Here's something new. I was testing the r/r again, just to be sure, and it's definitely sending way too many volts, although it's not really warming up all that much. After trying for 10 minutes or so, it was still only a little warm, not hot at all.

Anyway, I noticed that when I rev it up, the brake light goes out. WTF does that mean?

~Mike

[Jethro]

Here's something new. I was testing the r/r again, just to be sure, and it's definitely sending way too many volts, although it's not really warming up all that much. After trying for 10 minutes or so, it was still only a little warm, not hot at all.

Anyway, I noticed that when I rev it up, the brake light goes out. WTF does that mean?

~Mike

Sounds to me like you have a short or shorts somewhere, that has probably fried your r/r

The brake light could go out by either vibration or a short that heats up too much with the major voltage, probalby will fail altogether at some point.

If your r/r is fried, you could boil your battery. Check and see if your battery is actually holding a charge (make sure it's showing 12.8 volts and then check it the next day) and then take off the headlight and the tail light, and begin checking voltage at the bulbs with the ignition switch on. You shouldn't drain much voltage with the bulbs off while testing circuts, so you can leave the ign. switch on for a while.

I feel for you, man. I HATE electrical issues, but you definitely have them, and can for sure cause the problems you are having with the idle.

[UncleMike]

Sounds to me like you have a short or shorts somewhere, that has probably fried your r/r

The brake light could go out by either vibration or a short that heats up too much with the major voltage, probalby will fail altogether at some point.

If your r/r is fried, you could boil your battery. Check and see if your battery is actually holding a charge (make sure it's showing 12.8 volts and then check it the next day) and then take off the headlight and the tail light, and begin checking voltage at the bulbs with the ignition switch on. You shouldn't drain much voltage with the bulbs off while testing circuts, so you can leave the ign. switch on for a while.

I feel for you, man. I HATE electrical issues, but you definitely have them, and can for sure cause the problems you are having with the idle.

Sweet. Pat's coming over next week to help diagnose everything. Should be a good time. I've got a honda r/r I'll slap on.

BTW - I've got a sealed battery. Something else I should look out for?

~Mike

[Jethro]

Sweet. Pat's coming over next week to help diagnose everything. Should be a good time. I've got a honda r/r I'll slap on.

BTW - I've got a sealed battery. Something else I should look out for?

~Mike

If you have a sealed battery, it should be fully charged at more like 12.9-13 volts. Just make sure it's holding this voltage before getting into testing all the electrical circuts.

Make sure you check the grounds in the headlight assembly. Set your meter for checking continuity, and check all the plastic connectors by testing the circut through the connectors. You don't have to disconnect them, just touch the leads to the metal on either side of the connector. Then make sure the wires directly around them aren't showing continuity with a wire they shouldn't. I had a connector that looked brand new, not melted at all, and would disconnect and connect just fine. All looked well, but one neighboring wire in the harness was arcing. Took me months to find, and melted a lot of wire in the harness.

[81gs750bagger]

mine won't idle either

81 gs 750 ,carb clean per this site. bike starts and over revs t 4000-5000 rpms then dies will not idle, does airbox have to be on to even get bike to start ?

[chef1366]

The bike will not run right without the airbox.

[hancadam]

Great thread!! Very informative. What is the status of the bike now? Did you get it to idlle correctly?

[UncleMike]

Great thread!! Very informative. What is the status of the bike now? Did you get it to idlle correctly?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100217&page=19&highlight=idle