Still Won't Idle! I think I'm done.

I'd just like to take a moment to say congrats, but most of all that the valve thing was my idea, and I will therefore be addressing myself with the prefix of "Almighty Ruler" for the remainder of the day.*


(the * is for sarcasm, right? ;-))

Mike that is fantastic news!!! Now re-synch the carbs.

Dink

Oh yes. I'm gonna take her out and warm her up and get right at 'em.

Then I'll find wherever that intake leak is coming from.

I can't tell you how excited I am.

Mike that is fantastic news!!! Now re-synch the carbs.

Dink

I need to change the title of this thread,...


...BECAUSE SHE IDLES!!! Every single one of those valves was WAY too tight. Put her all back together and started her up and she idled. She didn't die. She didn't stall.

I'm so mfing happy!

Thank you all. Thank you for your patience. Thank you for walking me through every step.

SHE IDLES! After more than a year, she idles!

(And I'm sorry, Dink, but I was putting the feeler gauge between the lobe and the tappet, although I did check between the valve and the screw as well. And I didn't use the genuine tool either, but it's on order!)

THANK YOU ALL!

On a 16v motor the feeler should go between the valve and the adjuster screw!! BTW you are allowed to bend a feeler guage to make it easier to insert; I know I have on mine, do yourself the favour of getting the genuine tool for the adjuster screws, it makes it SO much easier.
Then again what would I know I only have four 16v motors, and have had at least one for eight years, and work "in the trade".

Dink

Okay, it's the Clymer that's screwing me. That's where it shows to insert the feeler in the picture, but when I inserted it between the lobe and the tappet(?) it was a LOT easier to adjust.

Thanks
~Mike

The feeler goes between the cam lobe (the egg shaped thing with the shiny surface) and the follower bearing surface (the other shiny area which comes into contact with the lobe as it turns). I like to first back out the screws and then gently back them back in until I feel the screw has come in contect with the valve. I do that for both valves. I then take my .10 mm feeler in one hand and my adjusting tool in the other (a pair of pliers will work). I back out both sides 1/4 turn and try the feeler. I do this until I find the point where the feeler slides in smoothly. Now if I tighten either side just a smidge I'll find the feeler will bind up and I can't remove it easily. It will actually feel tighter on one side of the surface as you tighten that side. The goal is to get a nice even clearance on the whole surface. I like to see the .10mm go in smooth, but .12 go in tight or not at all (to get .12 mm I combine the .08 and .04 feelers). Now you can use your 10 mm box wrench to tighten up the jamb nuts while holding the adjustment screws. I find that the tightening will cause a small loss in clearance (maybe .005 mm). Once both sides are nice and tight turn the crank a few times and measure it again.

Okay, now I'm confused again. I thought I was supposed to be inserting it between where the valve itself makes contact with the bottom of the adjuster screw.

[DimitriT]

Maybe I'm wrong here but aren't you suppose to insert the feeler gauges (two) between the valve and the adjuster screw?? Each valve needs to be adjusted such that the clearance is the same or there will be a skewing and twisting of the follower during operation.

The feeler goes between the cam lobe (the egg shaped thing with the shiny surface) and the follower bearing surface (the other shiny area which comes into contact with the lobe as it turns). I like to first back out the screws and then gently back them back in until I feel the screw has come in contect with the valve. I do that for both valves. I then take my .10 mm feeler in one hand and my adjusting tool in the other (a pair of pliers will work). I back out both sides 1/4 turn and try the feeler. I do this until I find the point where the feeler slides in smoothly. Now if I tighten either side just a smidge I'll find the feeler will bind up and I can't remove it easily. It will actually feel tighter on one side of the surface as you tighten that side. The goal is to get a nice even clearance on the whole surface. I like to see the .10mm go in smooth, but .12 go in tight or not at all (to get .12 mm I combine the .08 and .04 feelers). Now you can use your 10 mm box wrench to tighten up the jamb nuts while holding the adjustment screws. I find that the tightening will cause a small loss in clearance (maybe .005 mm). Once both sides are nice and tight turn the crank a few times and measure it again.

[Nessism]

Maybe I'm wrong here but aren't you suppose to insert the feeler gauges (two) between the valve and the adjuster screw?? Each valve needs to be adjusted such that the clearance is the same or there will be a skewing and twisting of the follower during operation.

Second guessing will get you every time........:-D

I just appreciate everyone's patience. It's only with a forum and people like this that a guy with absolutely no hands on mechanical experience short of changing oil and filter and sparkplugs could tackle everything I've managed so far.

Thank you all. I only hope I can return the favor in some way.

I've got it now, sorry for the confusion. They're just a bit tighter than they should be, so I was having trouble getting the feeler in there and second guessing myself.

Thanks for the help! I'll let you know how I mess this up!

~Mike

Second guessing will get you every time........:-D

I've got it now, sorry for the confusion. They're just a bit tighter than they should be, so I was having trouble getting the feeler in there and second guessing myself.

Thanks for the help! I'll let you know how I mess this up!

~Mike

Hmmm,...I would think it would be in constant contact with the follower then, and you wouldn't be able to get any of the feelers in there, and I can't.

Not to mention the fact that it wouldn't seem to make sense that there would be individual adjustments for each valve then, would it? I'm thinking that if the lobe is acutating two valves at a time, why not just have one adjuster for both valves?

The lobe shouldn't be operating two valves at a time(on a 8 valve engine). As far as the cam follower adjustment, I'll have to consult my book.
On edit, one cam lobe could probably operate two valves simultaneously on a 16 valve, but the measurements would have to be equal.

Hmmm,...I would think it would be in constant contact with the follower then, and you wouldn't be able to get any of the feelers in there, and I can't.

Not to mention the fact that it wouldn't seem to make sense that there would be individual adjustments for each valve then, would it? I'm thinking that if the lobe is acutating two valves at a time, why not just have one adjuster for both valves?

I am really not familiar with the 16v bikes or the adjustment thereof, but, you need an adjustment for each valve because they won't necessarily wear evenly. Valve adjustment is there to correct for wear, which causes clearances to go one way or another (depending on what's wearing and how much, in relation to other stuff wearing...).

As to where to stick the feeler, you stick it between the cam lobes and the thing below the lobes which they contact and push down (*edit* actually between the thing that ultimately pushes the valve tappets down and the valve tappets). The idea is there should be a certain amount of clearance between the lobe and the thing it pushes on (actually between the thing the lobe pushes on, and the things it pushes on) when it's NOT being pushed (it only pushes when the longer side of the lobe is downward). If there's not enough clearance, the valve may not close all the way and if there's too much it may not open enough or stay open long enough.

*sigh* I tried to make that simple, but it doesn't sound simple. ;-)

Yes, that's the lobe, the follower often looks like the head of a hammer (not sure on these bikes) but it's basically the bit the lobe contacts with and moves up & down as CAM goes round. You want to adjust the clearance at the base of the "egg" usually....

Dan

Hmmm,...I would think it would be in constant contact with the follower then, and you wouldn't be able to get any of the feelers in there, and I can't.

Not to mention the fact that it wouldn't seem to make sense that there would be individual adjustments for each valve then, would it? I'm thinking that if the lobe is acutating two valves at a time, why not just have one adjuster for both valves?