Still Won't Idle! I think I'm done.

[UncleMike]

I think you need a ......... what was the question?

My previous offer still stands Mr Unclemike


jerk*

Jerk!?! What did I do?

I just might have to ride on out your way this week sometime. When're you free?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

It's a lot easier to diagnose a bike in person than over the internet so if you can get someone to help you that's great.
I'd still try my test. Won't take very long.
Your bike is showing the signs of an intake leak. You can also hear sounds that escaping air can make. You say the head gasket area is messy in places.
With what you say has been checked such as throttle operation, diaphragm/spring assemblies correctly installed, ignition timing advancer operating correctly, I see no way that the rpm's can significantly increase as it becomes hot unless it's an intake leak.
You say the manifolds correct, are new and correctly installed on clean surfaces. Carbs installed correctly. Only intake leak I can think of now would be at the head gasket.
And re-torquing had to be tried first. Why not? Re-torquing doesn't always work. Sometimes you need a new gasket. A compression test should show low compression at least at one cylinder.

[UncleMike]

Keith,

Taking a shower and then I'm doing your test. The head gasket was weeping a little right between the exhaust at that one 6mm bolt. I've cleaned the area so I'll see if it's still weeping now.

Thanks,
~Mike

[UncleMike]

Fully warmed up, the bike was idling at 2500rpms.

No change in rpms no matter where around the head gasket I sprayed. It's not weeping now, by the way. Maybe a little moist at the place it was weeping previously, but I'm not sure.

I turned it down to almost 1000, and the bike seemed like it was going to stall out, but still idled. Although the idle was wandering all over the place, and kept going up to 2000 rpms. It stayed around 1500 most of the time. No noticible change with the spraying, but it was hard to tell with the idle wandering all over the place.

What now?

[UncleMike]

Just to be thorough, I broke one of the clamps that attach the left manifold boot to the carb yesterday. There was no change in idle rpms even when spraying around that carb either.

[UncleMike]

There seems to be a lot more seepage coming from the valve cover gasket and perhaps even those screws that are right behind the valve end covers. Could that cause an intake leak?

[UncleMike]

Oh, and I never verified timing, as I don't have a gun. Just wanted to be clear.

[UncleMike]

Also, the engine or exhaust was ticking quite a bit after only a minute or two of trying to get her to idle right when I started her up. Just trying to give as much info as possible.

[UncleMike]

And the tach cable is leaking a bit at the engine.

[t3rmin]

Also, the engine or exhaust was ticking quite a bit after only a minute or two of trying to get her to idle right when I started her up. Just trying to give as much info as possible.

Have you tried re-torquing the exhaust?

[UncleMike]

Have you tried re-torquing the exhaust?

I have not. Something to try next?

[t3rmin]

Well if my bike were ticking it's something I'd check. I was pleasently surprised to find none of my exhaust bolts frozen when I re-torqued them the other day -- watch for that.

[UncleMike]

Well if my bike were ticking it's something I'd check. I was pleasently surprised to find none of my exhaust bolts frozen when I re-torqued them the other day -- watch for that.

I feel like an idiot, but I just noticed that my clutch isn't fully engaging, which could certainly account for the stalling at the very least. The bike always seems to roll so freely with the clutch in, but on the centerstand the rear wheel is noticeably harder to move with the clutch in and in gear than in nuetral.

Anyone wanna walk me through adjusting that? The instructions in the Clymer manual are terrible.

Anyway, if I do re-torque the exhaust bolts, I'll soak 'em in PB Blaster for a couple of days first. At least they've got the allen heads on 'em.

Thanks,
~Mike

[t3rmin]

If you've got allen bolts in the exhaust then somebody took the time to replace 'em and I doubt any are frozen. I'd just crank on them a little bit and see if they move before waiting several days for penetrating oil...

Adjusting clutch cable is easy. My manual says you want 2-3mm of free play before the lever engages. Just use a screwdriver and (8mm?) wrench at the clutch actuation lever down by your rear brake pedal (on the same case/cover that your oil sight glass is on) to adjust cable tension until you've got the proper amount of play in the lever. Then you can use the thumb wheel adjuster at the handlebar lever to fine tune.

You shouldn't be able to roll the bike in gear without extreme effort with your hand off the clutch. However it is normal to still have have slight drag, with the clutch squeezed (vs neutral).

[UncleMike]

If you've got allen bolts in the exhaust then somebody took the time to replace 'em and I doubt any are frozen. I'd just crank on them a little bit and see if they move before waiting several days for penetrating oil...

Adjusting clutch cable is easy. My manual says you want 2-3mm of free play before the lever engages. Just use a screwdriver and (8mm?) wrench at the clutch actuation lever down by your rear brake pedal (on the same case/cover that your oil sight glass is on) to adjust cable tension until you've got the proper amount of play in the lever. Then you can use the thumb wheel adjuster at the handlebar lever to fine tune.

You shouldn't be able to roll the bike in gear without extreme effort with your hand off the clutch. However it is normal to still have have slight drag, with the clutch squeezed (vs neutral).

Seems no matter what direction I turn those bolts in down at the case, I'm not getting any more play at the lever. Perhaps a new cable is in order.

And there is almost no difference between the clutch in and out when in gear, as far as tension at the rear wheel.

Thanks, by the way.
~Mike