Still Won't Idle! I think I'm done.

After it doing it's normal BS of stalling out, it did eventually idle, but with the usual problems. Not strong, still wants to die after giving it some gas, etc,... I had to turn the idle screw up a bit to get her to idle too, so maybe, perhaps, hopefully that could be the issue this time around, but I doubt it.

But here's something I noticed:

When it was about to die, if I'd give it some gas, just a little, the rpms would jump up noticibly, seemingly more than they should have for the small amount of throttle I was giving, and it was accompanied by a whining sounds when I did it. A high-pitched squeal, almost. It would die down as the rpms would drop.

So frustrating,...

No change. No change. No change. No change. No change.
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Place is clean, people are gone, keg is kicked.

The bike is back together and the bowls on the carbs are filling. Pray for me people.

It's go time.

Not knocking anyones ideas but a fine water mist is much safer and kinder to the rubber parts. IF YOU HIT THE LEAK, the water will cause the rpms to drop noticably for a moment.
Test on a fully warmed up motor only.
It's not always easy to expose a leak, so the test isn't 100% positive. Going strictly by your posts/repairs/manifold replacements, I doubt the leak would be at the manifolds.

Honestly Keith,...I'd be a fool to ignore your advice. I had a costume party tonight, as Halloween has always been an important holiday in my family. As such, most of today was taken up with prep or celebration. The true test will be tomorrow morning when the rubber hits the road, as it were. Let's all hope my troubles are finally, after more than a year, over.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Not knocking anyones ideas but a fine water mist is much safer and kinder to the rubber parts. IF YOU HIT THE LEAK, the water will cause the rpms to drop noticably for a moment.
Test on a fully warmed up motor only.
It's not always easy to expose a leak, so the test isn't 100% positive. Going strictly by your posts/repairs/manifold replacements, I doubt the leak would be at the manifolds.

Just an idea but if the problem does not go away what about getting a can of starting fluid ether and carefully spraying it on the various possible leak paths one at a time and listening for an increase in idle speed? Some people use WD-40 but the ether will cause a more noticable change in engine speed I think. Hope you won't need to get to this point but you might want to consider it as a contingency plan.

Good luck.

Ed

If current avenues don't lead to a solution, I'll certainly walk down this path.

[Nessism]

Just an idea but if the problem does not go away what about getting a can of starting fluid ether and carefully spraying it on the various possible leak paths one at a time and listening for an increase in idle speed? Some people use WD-40 but the ether will cause a more noticable change in engine speed I think. Hope you won't need to get to this point but you might want to consider it as a contingency plan.

Good luck.

Ed

I'm just goofing around, trying to be funny.
I sure hope the problem goes away. Sounds like you've made the effort and you've been through enough.
Positive thoughts!

Indeed, and all I keep in my head at this point!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm just goofing around, trying to be funny.
I sure hope the problem goes away. Sounds like you've made the effort and you've been through enough.
Positive thoughts!

Yup. Good luck!
But now, if the problem goes away, we'll never know what the real fix was because you did several things this time around.:-x Just kiddin' ya.
But I don't see how the choke o-rings could raise the rpm's when hot and I doubt your synch would fix it either unless the plates were somehow sticking, which you said they weren't.
That still leaves the two intake leak checks as possible cures.
If it was the intake surface, it must have been REALLY dirty to leak past the clamps. Possible, though I don't know how you'd miss it earlier.
If it was the head bolts not torqued correctly, then you may be fine. But be aware that some head gaskets won't re-seal. Re-torquing is something that must be tried.
I'm not trying to sound negative, just reasoning it out.
I would also like to be the one who came up with the fix since your problem has been one of the longest running mysteries in awhile and I would therefore be showered with adoration.

Believe me Keith, I'd love it if you came up with the fix as well!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yup. Good luck!
But now, if the problem goes away, we'll never know what the real fix was because you did several things this time around.:-x Just kiddin' ya.
But I don't see how the choke o-rings could raise the rpm's when hot and I doubt your synch would fix it either unless the plates were somehow sticking, which you said they weren't.
That still leaves the two intake leak checks as possible cures.
If it was the intake surface, it must have been REALLY dirty to leak past the clamps. Possible, though I don't know how you'd miss it earlier.
If it was the head bolts not torqued correctly, then you may be fine. But be aware that some head gaskets won't re-seal. Re-torquing is something that must be tried.
I'm not trying to sound negative, just reasoning it out.
I would also like to be the one who came up with the fix since your problem has been one of the longest running mysteries in awhile and I would therefore be showered with adoration.

Good luck!!!

So what's happening? Any progress?

I've re-torqued the head bolts and cleaned and re-benchsynched the carbs. I'm cleaning the intake ports now to eliminate any chance of a leak and Brian was kind enough to send me new o-rings for the choke passages.

I'm slapping everything back together tomorrow and we'll see.

Pray for me.

Thanks,
~Mike

[KEITH KRAUSE]

So what's happening? Any progress?

Yup, found the values in the manual. I made the other thread because it's technically a separate question, and should be easier for people to find when searching.

The three 6mm bolts required 7ft.-lbs., which is why I went with the beam.

You're absolutely right Keith, and I've been thinking about that a lot. I desperately just want the bike to run strong and correct, but man I do enjoy learning all this stuff.

Thanks again for all your help.

~Mike