GS750E Rebuild Update

[Kcwiro]

type I wanted to use:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00999011000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

can't slide it off with this kind of tool ... if I use the plier type I probably can manage the bottom side to top...
plier type

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00999912000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_SessionID=@@@@0797090609.1171996877@@@@&BV_EngineID=cchladdkemhkmedcefecemldffidfmm.0

sorry I'm just not visualizing this in my head that well, little help much appreciated

[Dave8338]

type I wanted to use:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00999011000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

can't slide it off with this kind of tool ... if I use the plier type I probably can manage the bottom side to top...

There should be an allen head on both sides of the compressor. Use the end of the compressor with the most "tool" surface on it...the long end , and slide the rod and piston combo in from that end, so that the rod in now hanging out the bottom end of the compressor. You'll want to have the piston combo as far to the top edge of the compressor as possible (just so that the first ring is barely in the tool) and then slide it up into the cylinder. If the cylinder skirts are hitting the tool and you have not got the piston (all rings) in, you will have to come from the top.

[Kcwiro]

so... I take the long end and face it downward towards the crank and use the short buisness end of the tool to gradually move the piston in to the cylinder... is that correct?

[Dave8338]

so... I take the long end and face it downward towards the crank and use the short buisness end of the tool to gradually move the piston in to the cylinder... is that correct?

As long as you can slide the compressor far enough inside the cylinder, that your rings are exiting the compressor (either end) and into the cylinder, it makes no difference which end you use, unless that one is designed differently than mine. Mine work either way. Be sure to oil up the rings before you put the piston ass. into the compressor, it helps things slide out and in. (I'm sure someone out there has a sh1t eating grin on their face) :-D

[Kcwiro]

eww... that did sound wrong ... but makes sense to me. I just want to get these things back in the engine so I can get the engine back together and onto tuning it up ... this delay is so annoying

[BadBillyB]

Scott, I have never used a ring compressor to do this job. I cant imagine one to be very useful when doing this....I have done it many, many times, too many to count...Your cylinder block has a taper at the bottom of the sleeve to help assist in getting the rings in. Use this taper. Heres how I do it.

Connect a "fish" wire to the cam chain so once you get done the chain can be pulled through.
Turn the crank to where cylinders 2&3 are up high, they will go in first
Drop the cam chain down into motor (with wire attached) and turn motor gently clockwise until the chain bunches up and stops it from turning.
The block can be lowered over the studs with an assistant while you guide the 2&3 pistons up to the holes. Heres where it gets tricky.

Hold the pistons where 1/2 of the ring is started into the cylinder. In other words "cock" the piston sideways. Your ring endgaps (top ones) should be opposite each other and facing inline with the crankshaft. So basically one ring end is already started up into the holes taper. Now use a pop sickle stick or a clothes pin (Soft wood) and begin compressing the ring with it. Start at the point furthest away from the ring end gap, working your way toward the ring gap. As you compress the ring, the weight of the block and the taper on the sleeve will allow the rest of the ring to start into the tapered area of the sleeve. Once it does, simply cock the piston back straight and they are in.

You really need a second person to help with lowering the block as you dont want the full weight of the block sitting on the rings.

Once you get 2&3 in, rotate the crank backwards just enough to release the previously bunched up cam chain. Hang the cam chain up through the block and hook it to something with your "fish" wire. Be careful the block doesn't come down hard on 3&4 pistons as the crank is free to turn now and has some weight to it.

Rotate the crank to allow the block to come down and the remaining pistons to come up. Check your ring end gaps for proper position and cock the pistons to where 1/2 the ring goes into the bore. Compress as before with pop sickle sticks.

Works for me, never broke a ring. But I did have a good helper who understood exactly what we were doing......Good Luck....BadBillyB

[Kcwiro]

Question... if the ring end gaps are opposite of each other do I use two sticks or just one?

figured I would be compressing the top one so it gets in the cylinder .. the second ring should be close to follow... before I got the top most rings in...but the oil ring on the bottom caused me simular troubles...

[BadBillyB]

Question... if the ring end gaps are opposite of each other do I use two sticks or just one?

figured I would be compressing the top one so it gets in the cylinder .. the second ring should be close to follow... before I got the top most rings in...but the oil ring on the bottom caused me simular troubles...

You only need one stick. Do the top ring on Cyl2 then do the top ring on cyl3. Then do the second ring on cyl2 followed by second ring on cyl3.

Once these are in place. The pistons are now straight with the bore. Center the oil rings (after having made sure the expander ends are not overlapping....easy mistake) and just wiggle/push the block down over them. They do not have as much tension (not sprung out) like the compression rings. The taper will guide them in. Rock pistons from side to side if needed to get them started.......Also inspect the taper or chamfer on the bottom of the sleeves before you start in case one got dinged. It can be lightly sanded if needed.........BadBillyB

[Kcwiro]

Success!!

The block is resting comfortably under its new base gasket...hose clamps ended up doing the trick... easy once friend and I figured out that we could use the clamp to hold it and just let the block come down and push the clamp off as it dropped.... simple concept but after two hours it finally came down... figured out somehow a sigle washer got misplaced and hardware store being closed I could not find anything suitable to use in its place... so I hand tightened the head bolts and will pick up completing the job I hope next weekend... need to get cam eye ends since those also managed to disappear... otherwise motor will be ready to fire hopefully by next weekend [-o<

[Nessism]

The head stud washers on my 450 were copper and doubled as a seal since oil feeds up through some of the studs. You might want to double check on your bike to make sure you can get the proper type of washers (may not be available at the hardware).

[Kcwiro]

Yeah, I know the washers you are talking about ...the ones that are missing the washer are the outside stud nuts which take normal steel washers. I had both copper washers accounted for thankfully....these others got lost when the head went to the shop to be checked out.

Dont think this will be a problem..anyone chime in if I am incorrect.

[Kcwiro]

dam it the place gave me the wrong cam shaft bolts for my sprocket on my exhaust cam...

does anyone have a pair of 7mm hex socket bolts?

shop is really ticking me off with ordering the wrong crap

[chef1366]

If you have a stock cam I think I have some. I"ll look in my shed tomorrow.

[Kcwiro]

its an OEM one yes...don't have the part number from the shop order but it uses 7MM allen head bolts to secure the sprocket for my exhaust cam.

Thanks a lot let me know if you find something...

hardest part about this rebuild right now is all the small things that are holding me up...I mean sheesh a broken ring is one thign but the only thing keeping me from firing it up right now is two silly bolts... OH the IRONY!!

[chef1366]

I've got the bolts. They are in my stock 1100 cams. See if you can drop in these cams
Let me know if you need the bolts or cams.