Project: 1985 GS550ES

[MelodicMetalGod]

skreemer,

Thanks for the reply. I was aware of the idle adjust and haven't yet cleaned the carbs. I've been disassembling and reassembling just to get familiar with the parts so that I can put them back in the right places after the cleaning. There's lots of gunk throughout the bowls and I'm sure the starter and low speed circuits and pipes are clogged a bit. Got the Gunk dip last week to get the job done.

I'll have to get a hold of Haynes book. I've definitely noticed the Clymers seems to be homed in on bikes a few years earlier than my 85, but I wasn't aware that Haynes was better for later models. Thanks.

[MelodicMetalGod]

Stripped air mix screw!

I HATE flat head screws! Here's a pic of my stripped air mix screw (top right, just above the diaphram body) somebody before me started the job and I've now finished it)). I'm getting ready to drill it and use a back out bit to remove it. Before I do this, does anybody have a better idea?

Also, any idea where I might locate an OEM replacement?

[janksolid]

mikuni carbs

Apologies if you've already seen this.
Everything you need to strip and clean your carbs

[janksolid]

mikuni carbs

Ooops!
Apologies if you've already seen this.
Everything you need to strip and clean your carbs.

http://www.thegsresources.com/files/GS%20Carb%20Cleaning%20Series.pdf

[MelodicMetalGod]

Ooops!
Apologies if you've already seen this.
Everything you need to strip and clean your carbs.
http://www.thegsresources.com/files/...g%20Series.pdf

No worries. Yes, I've seen it and have a copy printed for reference.

[MelodicMetalGod]

I HATE flat head screws! Here's a pic of my stripped air mix screw (top right, just above the diaphram body) somebody before me started the job and I've now finished it)). I'm getting ready to drill it and use a back out bit to remove it. Before I do this, does anybody have a better idea?

Also, any idea where I might locate an OEM replacement?

Anybody with a better idea? Going once, going twice,...

[Big T]

First, fill the small depression with carb cleaner or dip to soften up the paint. Then screw it in 1/2 turn, out 1 turn and repeat until it comes out.

The head distorted when it became harder and harder to turn, so you tried to force it, right?

You need the closest fitting screwdriver head you can fit in there

[MelodicMetalGod]

First, fill the small depression with carb cleaner or dip to soften up the paint. Then screw it in 1/2 turn, out 1 turn and repeat until it comes out.

The head distorted when it became harder and harder to turn, so you tried to force it, right?

You need the closest fitting screwdriver head you can fit in there

I'll bathe it in carb cleaner and see if I can get it to budge.

Actually, I have yet to move this screw in or out. When I got there it was already half stripped so I used the best driver I have, which fit really well. Couldn't budge this thing either way, then it stripped the rest of the way on a counter-clockwise effort.

Thanks for the tip.

Keep 'em comin', I'm open all night!

[skreemer]

I ended up drilling mine out with a sears backout kit... those things are horribly soft... I "grounded" one for good and gave ut and swapped carbs with one I bought off E-bay...

I'd offer you some good air mix screws (I have two left) but they are going in a 550 I'm rebuilding for an old roommate...

[MelodicMetalGod]

I ended up drilling mine out with a sears backout kit... those things are horribly soft... I "grounded" one for good and gave ut and swapped carbs with one I bought off E-bay...

I'd offer you some good air mix screws (I have two left) but they are going in a 550 I'm rebuilding for an old roommate...

Thanks for the reply, but not really what I wanted to hear. :shock:

For the moment, the carb cleaner is hopefully working it's magic. We'll see...

[Nerobro]

The needle screws need to be 3.5 to 4.5 turns out. Mine are at 3.75 right now.

[MelodicMetalGod]

Re-Installed the Starter...

...while considering carb options (pilot screw issues).

I had removed the starter due to a spider and bee infestation that I discovered when I removed the starter cover plate for cleaning. The bee made a home out of mud in the starter bay and in one mounting tab while the spider (and about a million fried babies) was in the other tab with a lot of silk. Odd neighbors.

Before pic

After pic

I don't know about you, but I feel MUCH better knowing that I'll be the only rider on my bike!

Starter is re-installed. \\/

Now, time to get back to this pilot screw issue...

[MelodicMetalGod]

Factory Service Manual acquired!!!

What a wealth of information!

Got it from RepairManualClub.com. Not a pretty or efficient website, but it did deliver and for free!

[MelodicMetalGod]

Do I need to pull the throttle assembly for the dip process?

I'm asking because a) I haven't found any removal procedures for doing so, b) I can't seem to pull the cap on the outside of the assembly and c) in the carb cleanup series, it looks like the carb is dipped with the throttle valve still installed (but I'm not certain from the pic).

Obviously, my big concern is whether or not the soultion will reach any seals on the throttle assembly. Also, it seems the end cap is made of something other than metal.

I'm guessing I need to pull that throttle assembly out, but I'd appreciate a few second opinions. Thanks!

[MelodicMetalGod]

How long do you dip?

So now it's two questions:

1) Do I need to pull the throttle valve assembly or can I dip the body with the throttle valve still installed?

2) How long do you dip the carbs for? My dip (Gunk) recommends 20 minutes.