Project: 1985 GS550ES

[MelodicMetalGod]

Greetings from the garage!

I'm in the process of revitalizing a 1985 GS550ES and I've decided to post this project here so that I can both benefit from the knowledge of the community and hopefully contribute to it. While I've ridden many motorcycles and owned and maintained several, I've never IMPROVED a motorcycle. Truth be told, I've always preferred riding to wrenching. However, being inspired by so many of the beauties that the members of TheGSResources.com have restored and created (check out one of my favorite threads here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ad.php?t=98319 ) I've decided to take a shot at making this bike greater than when I found it.

So, as the project progresses and I learn, make mistakes, learn the right way, make more mistakes, bust my knuckles and clog my plumbing with orange pumice cleanser and then finally get it right, I will post both written and visual entries here to share the experience and progress and to share and receive advice and tips & tricks.

Thanks for stopping by! (and wish me luck!) :?

[MelodicMetalGod]

First a little background:

Last summer, 2006, my uncle decided to trim down his stable a bit and, coincidentally, I was looking for an inexpensive way to re-enter the world of motorcycling after a hiatus of over 12 years.

The most interesting and well-kept bike that he had to offer (his classic BMW was not on the block) was a 1985 Suzuki GS550ES. It was kept in a detached garage, under tarps and was properly prepped for storage two years earlier.

May 21, 2006
First look. My uncle had the bike properly stored for two years. A tad dusty and a bit of rust, but basically in OK shape. :-D We agreed to get together over the coming weeks and get the bike running. If it ran and showed not major issues [-o<, I'd take the bike off his hands.

[MelodicMetalGod]

July 2006
Changed the oil, lubed the cables and chain, installed new fully charged battery, installed new OEM petcock, corrected tire pressure.

Once we were able to schedule the time and collect a few parts, it took only a few hours of basic maintenance plus the replacement of the failed petcock to get the bike started and ready to ride to my garage.

For the 40-50 mile trip, my uncle rode the bike due to insurance restrictions. About 20 miles into the trip the bike stalled at a red light. A bit of luck had this happen at an intersection on a back road that, get this, happened to have a gas station on one corner. We didn’t think it was, but in case the bike was low on fuel we filled up. Of course it wasn’t that simple. Instead we were dealing with a hard starting issue.

The bike had already demonstrated difficulty re-starting once it was fully warmed up and starter fluid was the best (read: only) way to get it going again. This particular gas station had no supplies and we had accidentally NOT brought the starter fluid from my uncles place, so we had to ask directions until we found an auto store… Upon returning with the starter fluid and after several minutes of coaxing, we managed to fire up the bike. The rest of the ride was uneventful, but only because my uncle learned that he couldn’t let the revs drop below about 4000 or the bike would die…so he didn’t let the revs drop. Instead he used the clutch and brakes to reduce power at stops and corners. Not the best and certainly not the safest way to ride, but it was the only way that the bike made the rest of the trip. We pulled the bike into my garage and I had my first bike since I sold my Yamaha Seca II back in 1993.

There in my garage, since August 2006, is where the bike has been sitting. Resting comfortably, but restlessly. I’ve started it every so often to keep things moving and I've collected supplies and maintenance parts but I’ve not made the time to work on it until now. Time to roll up the sleeves and get to work! 8-)

[MelodicMetalGod]

3/23/07 - Evaluation and Goals

3/23/07: After wasting the seasonably warm fall and winter of 2006, finally starting work on the bike. Before pictures have been taken along with many reference shots.

The bike starts but ONLY with MAXiMUM choke! Once started, it will eventually idle high (about 3000) but ONLY with the choke 80% or more engaged. Applying throttle will usually result in stall, but I’ve managed to get it to pull the revs up to 8000 or 9000 by very slowly applying the throttle in micro-increments up to about 5000 RPM and then cranking the throttle open.

Bottom line: Won’t idle or run without choke, wants to stall under throttle, wants to stall under load (in gear), but it wants to run if you can get it up to 5000 or 6000.

There doesn't seem to be any other obvious issues. Of course, my fingernails aren't even dirty yet.

I suspect that my most ambitious goal will be to get the bike looking new. As I received it, there's a lot of rust, pitting and flaking finishes throughout the bike. But that's only if I get things mechanically sound and true first.

Goals:
1) Get it ride-able
2) Get it road worthy/reliable/tuned
3) Get it clean and pretty

[MelodicMetalGod]

3/23/07: Step 1: Replace air filter.

Step one: Replace air filter. Why? 1) The filter is old and used, 2) It's relatively easy and quick, 3) It will eliminate a dirty/clogged air filter from the list of potential issues for other troubleshooting.

Sounds simple, right? LOL! Yeah, that’s what I thought too, but I should've known better.

I ordered the replacement (which was a special order at my local shop). Got the part (last Fall) and now as I attempt to install it I find out that it’s a foam filter in a cheap plastic frame (that’s come unglued on one end) whereas the original was paper in metal frame. In addition, installation of this replacement is achieved without using the stock retention screw. Instead, they (UNI) provide a simple pin (or were planning to, there was nothing in the packaging though they said there should be). Fortunately I found a suitable facsimile: an extra entertainment center shelf support pin. Fit’s perfectly. Go figure.

Wait a minute… What’s that? I need to add oil to the foam oil filter? Really? Well, why wouldn’t the sales person tell me that? I’m guessing he doesn’t know the part for my 22 year old bike. Back to the shop for supplies.

Air filter oil. Check. O-Ring safe chain lube. Check. S100 Cleaner. Check. Plastic cleaner (for fairing, etc.). Check. Gasket sealant. Check. Classic cleaning cloth…? Oh, right…impulse buy. Check.

Outta time today.

[MelodicMetalGod]

3/29/07: Replace Air Filter - Part Deux

Where was I? Right, replace the air filter.

Had to glue one end of the filter back on to the cheap plastic plate. Good grief. Ok, now, how much oil does it take to "thoroughly" saturate the air filter? Guess I’ll never know. What I can say is that getting any oil into the foam is MESSY. Next time I think I’ll look for an old school plain paper air filter. Well, at least it’s in and it’s new and fresh. But it is messy.

Test: Original symptoms persist (starts fine under 101% choke, but won't idle without choke and stalls under throttle or load. Results not surprising.

[MelodicMetalGod]

3/29/07: Step 2: Replace Spark Plugs

3/29/07
Step two: Replace spark plugs. This sounds simple too. Uh-oh. Can’t get to all the plugs without pulling the gas tank. So much for 5-10 minute job.

Last time I pulled a tank was in 1987 on a Honda CB350. Turns out that the GS550ES has a lot more than just the petcock vacuum and fuel lines connected to the petcock. Here's a list of connections that I had to disengage to remove the gas tank:

1. 1. Vacuum to petcock
   2. Fuel to petcock
   3. Large overflow (?) from forward underneath center point of tank to [no connection, routed like a breather line]
   4. Unknown smaller line (vacuum ?) from right underneath point of tank to [no connection, routed like a breather line]
   5. Fuel gauge connectors (electrical)

Ed: If you can identify the purpose of #'s 3 and 4 above, please do. Thanks! (Here's a pic. #'s 2 and 3 are the large and small lines with blue tape and are resting on the main tube of the frame.)




Thought I was gonna break the fuel line trying to get it off the petcock, but it finally let go. The line was actually split at the very end. Vacuum line was also a challenge, but went a bit easier. It wouldn’t be so bad except that the tank can only be raised a couple of inches and there’s just not sufficient room to get a hand under there and disconnect these hoses, which, by necessity, are a tight fit on the petcock.

Alright, tanks off. Time to pull the plugs. They came out easily. Almost too easy. I wonder if they were in tight enough to begin with. Condition of the plugs: Even coating of dry, black substance on both electrodes, insulation and thread body. I believe this indicates oil or carbon fouling but it seems to be a mild case. On plugs from cylinders 1 & 2, the bottom of the side electrode was coated with a tan/beige/cream colored dry substance. Not sure what this means (please advise if you know). And one of the plugs had a liquid sheen in the threads closest to the seals/furthest from the electrodes. Oil I think, because gasoline would have evaporated shortly after the plug was pulled.

Turns out I need a new spark plug gauge. Tomorrow.



Cleaned up the plastic a bit. Spent about an hours worth of elbow grease cleaning some of the painted surfaces, especially the fairing and the tailpiece. I think the dead bug juice is about two years old and is apparently going for a "petrified" status. It's gonna take more than hardened bug juice to stop me this early in the project! [-X

[MelodicMetalGod]

Sprak Plug Gap range

Got the plugs, 4 NGK D9EA's, properly gapped. Spec is .024 to .028. I gapped them to the average of the range, .026.

Question: Is there any reason to gap closer to the top or bottom of the range?

[MelodicMetalGod]

Got the plugs, 4 NGK D9EA's, properly gapped. Spec is .024 to .028. I gapped them to the average of the range, .026.

Question: Is there any reason to gap closer to the top or bottom of the range?

Anyone have some insight?

[JTsGS650]

Well my feeling is that if you gap them bigger, then theoretically you get a bigger spark. Bigger spark=more complete combustion. I could be completely off base so take it with a grain of salt...8-[

[lord1234]

not really...if you are just trying to get the bike working .26 is a perfect#. As far as your idle issue, my guess is that you need to clean and sync your carbs. This involves pulling the carbs(not the easiest) and then following the VERY GOOD directions on this site for how to clean them.

As I found out recently, I suck at directions. You will need the following tools

a) Phillips head screwdriver
b) PB Blaster
c) Impact Driver(the kind you hit with a hammer and it slowly dislodges stuck screws)

you *might* need one of the following
a) Float Bowl Gasket
b) not much else.

to sync your carbs, you can either a) bench sync or b) get a sync tool. Both of these are nearly equally good for the bike. I had a similar issue that my (older)bike(GS400) used to stall out when warmed up without me maintaining high revs and choke...cleaning/syncing fixed it right up.

Hope that helps

[MelodicMetalGod]

Well my feeling is that if you gap them bigger, then theoretically you get a bigger spark. Bigger spark=more complete combustion. I could be completely off base so take it with a grain of salt...8-[

That is my general understanding as well. However, my question is more about whether or not there is a general or specific need for a greater or lesser gap (spark), or if the gap should be adjusted after observing plug condition over time, etc.

[lord1234]

the latter is definitely the answer....seriously .26 shoudl be great...now get on to cleaning/syncing those carbs...

PS since I haven't said it yet...that is a BEAUTIFUL bike

[MelodicMetalGod]

not really...if you are just trying to get the bike working .26 is a perfect#. As far as your idle issue, my guess is that you need to clean and sync your carbs. This involves pulling the carbs(not the easiest) and then following the VERY GOOD directions on this site for how to clean them.

As I found out recently, I suck at directions. You will need the following tools

a) Phillips head screwdriver
b) PB Blaster
c) Impact Driver(the kind you hit with a hammer and it slowly dislodges stuck screws)

you *might* need one of the following
a) Float Bowl Gasket
b) not much else.

to sync your carbs, you can either a) bench sync or b) get a sync tool. Both of these are nearly equally good for the bike. I had a similar issue that my (older)bike(GS400) used to stall out when warmed up without me maintaining high revs and choke...cleaning/syncing fixed it right up.

Hope that helps

Thanks for the validation of the .026 gap. Anybody have any ideas on removing/replacing spark plugs and the effect on the plug gasket? I'm thinking that if the gasket it truly important then removing/reinstalling the plug will negate the effectiveness of the gasket... Is this correct or am I being too much of a perfectionist on the point?

Also, how important is using a torque wrench for installing the plugs? The manual specs 11 to 14.8 foot pounds, but my torque wrench ranges from 0-650 in 25 pound increments, which is a) not in the accurate range of the wrench to being with and b) the wrench increments are too large to be useful. I've looked for low range torque wrenches and they seem to be elusive. So, how important is the need for exact toque on the plugs and where can I get a properly ranged tool if I need it?

PS: Carb cleanup will follow testing after plugs are changed.

[DimitriT]

From the description of the problem it sounds like you have clogged idle circuits in the carbs. You will need to get those carbs cleaned out which means the carbs have to come off the bike. Not a small task, but if you can get the tank off you should be able to manage it.