Project: 1985 GS550ES

[JTsGS650]

That is my general understanding as well. However, my question is more about whether or not there is a general or specific need for a greater or lesser gap (spark), or if the gap should be adjusted after observing plug condition over time, etc.

Once the plugs are gapped and firing well just leave 'em alone.

As far as the plug gaskets don't worry about em'.

And as far as using a tourque wrench to install the plugs, that's not something I do. I just finger tighten them and then go another 1/8 to 1/4 turn with a ratchet. But on axle nuts or brake calipers, I'll use a torque wrench.

And I concur with lord, nice looking bike.

[Steve]

Just what kind of torque wrench do you have, and what fasteners are you going to torque to 650 ft-lbs? :shock:

Think about it, if you weigh 220 pounds and use a 3-foot cheater bar, you would be applying 660 ft-lbs. 8-[ Even the head bolts on a Cummins engine in a Peterbilt only get torqued to about 200, so the 650 really boggles (what's left of) my mind.

Maybe your wrench is calibrated in INCH-pounds? If so, 650 would be just over 50 FT-lbs, putting the 11-15 spec right in the bottom of the accurate range for the wrench.

Either a 3/8" drive ft-lb wrench or a 1/4" drive in-lb wrench should handle that nicely, if you want to be super-accurate. Most of us probably just wipe the crud away from the hole, wipe off the (old) gasket and snug it in. I usually go less than 1/8 turn after the gasket touches and have never had a problem (yet).


.

[MelodicMetalGod]

From the description of the problem it sounds like you have clogged idle circuits in the carbs. You will need to get those carbs cleaned out which means the carbs have to come off the bike. Not a small task, but if you can get the tank off you should be able to manage it.

I agree that the carbs need to be cleaned as that is the likely source of the main issue. I'm sure I can do the job, it's just been a while. Last (and only other) time I've pulled and cleaned carbs was in 1987 on my first bike, a 1973 Honda CB350. I'm thinkin' the carbs on the GS will be MUCH more challenging. :-D

[lord1234]

GS carbs are easy...its just that the screws tend to get stuck in them:-P...the hardest part of carbs is as I listed

a) screws
b) removing them from the boots.
c) making sure to carefully lift the float bowls so as not to rip the gaskets...

[MelodicMetalGod]

Just what kind of torque wrench do you have, and what fasteners are you going to torque to 650 ft-lbs? :shock:

Think about it, if you weigh 220 pounds and use a 3-foot cheater bar, you would be applying 660 ft-lbs. 8-[ Even the head bolts on a Cummins engine in a Peterbilt only get torqued to about 200, so the 650 really boggles (what's left of) my mind.

Maybe your wrench is calibrated in INCH-pounds? If so, 650 would be just over 50 FT-lbs, putting the 11-15 spec right in the bottom of the accurate range for the wrench.

Either a 3/8" drive ft-lb wrench or a 1/4" drive in-lb wrench should handle that nicely, if you want to be super-accurate. Most of us probably just wipe the crud away from the hole, wipe off the (old) gasket and snug it in. I usually go less than 1/8 turn after the gasket touches and have never had a problem (yet).


.

Doh! My torque wrench is calibrated in INCH-pounds, not FOOT-pounds. Again, Doh! Guess it's been to long since I've used the thing. I actually just picked it up from my Grandmothers house where it's sat unused for the last 20 years.

I also know that the boxes that the plugs come in recommed torque via the 1/8 or 1/2 turn method, which I have used in the past. I'm just trying to do things as close to spec as possible (according to the manual).

Thanks very much for getting my brain to jog on this!

[MelodicMetalGod]

GS carbs are easy...its just that the screws tend to get stuck in them:-P...the hardest part of carbs is as I listed

a) screws
b) removing them from the boots.
c) making sure to carefully lift the float bowls so as not to rip the gaskets...

I'll definitely heed your advice on that task. Thanks!

[MelodicMetalGod]

RE: From Lord1234: "PS since I haven't said it yet...that is a BEAUTIFUL bike."

RE: From JTsGS650: "And I concur with lord, nice looking bike."


Well, actually, once you get a bit closer and under more revealing lighting, the bike does show quite a bit of wear. A lot of rust speckle on the pipes, corrosion/rust on the fasteners and quite a bit of dirt/dust/long dead bugs/cobwebs in general, especially on the hard to reach surfaces. Also, the petcock side cover has been stained with gas (that's why the first thing I did was install a new petcock).

As I work on the function, I'll be cleaning up the form. Eventually I'd like to get this bike to look as shiny and new as some of the others I've seen on here on TheGSResources.

[MelodicMetalGod]

OnlineConversion.com

Speaking of perfection (and laziness), here's a very cool site.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/

Thanks to Steve's post I realized that I just needed to convert foot pounds specs to inch pounds to match my torque wrench. Here's the tool for that job:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

[lord1234]

RE: From Lord1234: "PS since I haven't said it yet...that is a BEAUTIFUL bike."

RE: From JTsGS650: "And I concur with lord, nice looking bike."


Well, actually, once you get a bit closer and under more revealing lighting, the bike does show quite a bit of wear. A lot of rust speckle on the pipes, corrosion/rust on the fasteners and quite a bit of dirt/dust/long dead bugs/cobwebs in general, especially on the hard to reach surfaces. Also, the petcock side cover has been stained with gas (that's why the first thing I did was install a new petcock).

As I work on the function, I'll be cleaning up the form. Eventually I'd like to get this bike to look as shiny and new as some of the others I've seen on here on TheGSResources.

all the above complaints are moot...you at least have all the side covers, they seem in good shape, the gas tank isn't dented, everyone's pipes have some corrosion...so yea...good looking bike...don't put it down so much or you'll hurt its feelings.

[bikechump]

your symptoms of only being able to run on choke makes me think you have an air leak somewhere in your system. With an air leak you would create a lean condition as there wouldn't be enough vacuum to pull up the proper amount of gas, therefore by using the choke you pour excess gasoline to compensate. To check try using some contact cleaner/lube in a can/ect. and spray them on the seals of the carbs including the shaft that actuates the butterflies. if the revs fluctuate you've found a leak. The o-rings behind the carb boots sealing the boots to the head are definitely something to renew as 20+ yrs. will take its toll on rubber components.

If you haven't already, be sure to replace both your vacuum and fuel lines with some new ones. just through experience I've found clear lines much nicer to have as you can see whats going on in there. Adding an inline fuel filter wouldn't be a bad idea either.(all depends on the condition of the tank) Just make sure you install one that is designed to work with a gravity fed system.

have fun.

[MelodicMetalGod]

all the above complaints are moot...you at least have all the side covers, they seem in good shape, the gas tank isn't dented, everyone's pipes have some corrosion...so yea...good looking bike...don't put it down so much or you'll hurt its feelings.

Don't get me wrong, I like the look of the bike and for a bike of this style and "maturity" it's in pretty good shape. It's just that after poking around this forum I've seen quite a few older bikes that are in better shape and I'd like to get my bike to that level.

FYI: The left side cover, in addition to the gas stains, is actually cracked in half about 90% right up the middle. The PO used duct tape on the inside of the cover to hold it together. I just found out earlier this week that Bike Bandit has covers for the GS550ES, so I'll probably wind up getting a replacement once the bike is road worthy.

[MelodicMetalGod]

Spark Plugs are gapped, in and torqued to spec!

With new plugs in at .026 gap and PERFECTLY torqued at 150 inch-pounds (thanks again to Steve), the orignal symptoms persist. As suspected, the likely cluprit is the carb system which means that I'll be pulling them this weekend. In anticipation of a need for all things not metal associated with the carbs I went to bike BikeBandit.com and noticed that most of my carb parts are out there. I also found this place called CheapCycleParts.com and found a system similar to BikeBandit's with better (less pixelized) illustrations and even more information on the parts and great availability.

I know that many folks have said that buying generic O-ring sets and gasket sets are a good way to go when rebuilding the carbs, but is there any reason that I shouldn't take advantage of the OEM stuff in this link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/pages/parts/1/10641/261147/home.aspx

Oh, and I did a search for this vendor here on the forum and got no hits, so I'm wondering if maybe I've found a supplier that we didn't know about yet.

Please advise. Thanks in advance!

[MelodicMetalGod]

With new plugs in at .026 gap and PERFECTLY torqued at 150 inch-pounds (thanks again to Steve), the orignal symptoms persist. As suspected, the likely cluprit is the carb system which means that I'll be pulling them this weekend. In anticipation of a need for all things not metal associated with the carbs I went to bike BikeBandit.com and noticed that most of my carb parts are out there. I also found this place called CheapCycleParts.com and found a system similar to BikeBandit's with better (less pixelized) illustrations and even more information on the parts and great availability.

I know that many folks have said that buying generic O-ring sets and gasket sets are a good way to go when rebuilding the carbs, but is there any reason that I shouldn't take advantage of the OEM stuff in this link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/pages/parts/1/10641/261147/home.aspx

Oh, and I did a search for this vendor here on the forum and got no hits, so I'm wondering if maybe I've found a supplier that we didn't know about yet.

Please advise. Thanks in advance!

Any thoughts...anyone?

[lord1234]

ok
for carb rebuild, you probably don't have to touch the air side of the carbs...however you will need to open/drain/clean the float bowls. You probably need to replace your float bowl gasket. These can be found for around 6-7 dollars a piece at bikebandit.com (sorry i don't know your other site). You shouldn't need any other parts...
however make sure you clean all 3 jets(main jet(yellow brass head), idle jet(tall brass thing poking up out of the carb) and pilot jet(right infront of the main jet). These are all based off of my carbs, so might be different for you, but shouldn't be.

Hope that helps...

Depending on how bad it is you might also need to replace the floats...thats when the real pain in the ass starts.

[LeeGS550E]

I rebuilt the carbs on my '83 ED a few months ago. I replaced the float bowl gaskets and the o-ring on the needle valve assembly. I didn't find any others that needed replacement. You probably want to check to make sure your baffles are ok. I would go ahead and buy the parts from that site. I keep going to the local guys just to keep my money local, but every time I come out disappointed with the price and how long it takes to get the parts. Good work on finding that link too, as those blow ups are much clearer than bikebandit's.