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Project: 1985 GS550ES

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    #76
    Originally posted by skreemer View Post
    when you gonna pull that old outdated shock and step up to a new GSXR rear?
    Hey! I thought "all original" was a good thing around here. ;-)

    One thing at a time. I won't replace anything that I don't have to until I get this bike on the road regularly. No sense in spending money on performance upgrades if I never get it to idle.

    Comment


      #77
      I'm not sure I would have dug into the starter to clean all of that out. :-) it's just mud, it wouldn't have hurt anything really. By pulling the starter you've opened the crankcase to contamination, and started a potentional (though unlikely as it's an o-ring seal) oil leak.

      The GSXR shock replacement is a non-permanant modification that brings HUGE benifits. Everyone wants to concentrate on making more power on a bike, when real speed comes from working on the suspension. Once you go GSXR you never go back. :-)
      You'd have to be crazy to be sane in this world -Nero
      If you love it, let it go. If it comes back....... You probably highsided.
      1980 GS550E (I swear it's a 550...)
      1982 GS650E (really, it's a 650)
      1983 GS550ES (42mpg again)
      1996 Yamaha WR250 (No, it's not a 4 stroke.)
      1971 Yamaha LT2 (9 horsepower of FURY.)

      Comment


        #78
        Originally posted by Nerobro View Post
        I'm not sure I would have dug into the starter to clean all of that out. :-) it's just mud, it wouldn't have hurt anything really. By pulling the starter you've opened the crankcase to contamination, and started a potentional (though unlikely as it's an o-ring seal) oil leak.

        The GSXR shock replacement is a non-permanant modification that brings HUGE benifits. Everyone wants to concentrate on making more power on a bike, when real speed comes from working on the suspension. Once you go GSXR you never go back. :-)
        Yeah, guess it's the clean freak in me that had me pull the starter. I know it wasn't NECESSARY, but I was compelled to do it! :shock: I've blocked the crankcase opening with a clean towel to prevent any contamination. With any luck at all the oil leak won't happen as the seal looks good. If that becomes a problem, I'll just add it to the list.

        I'm more of a finesse and cornering kinda rider, so I would definitely be after handling before I worry about more power. But, again, not until I get the bike road worthy in as close to stock condition as possible. Still, I'll keep the GSXR shock in mind.

        Comment


          #79
          Since you have the carbs out of the bike I would pull the intake boots and replace the o-rings. Even if you think they are ok on a bike that old they are more then likely hard and brittle. And it doesn't sound like you would want to pull the carbs again to change them.

          Comment


            #80
            Hi, I also have an 85 550 and had to get it running after 5 or so years sitting. It sounds like your low speed/idle jets are plugged with crud, mine were. Also the larger tube leading to the rear of the bike goes to the smog cannister which may be missing and the smaller one is a drain which will catch gas leaking from the fuel level sending unit and rout it away from the hot engine. Good luck

            Comment


              #81
              Originally posted by pb53chevy View Post
              Since you have the carbs out of the bike I would pull the intake boots and replace the o-rings. Even if you think they are ok on a bike that old they are more then likely hard and brittle. And it doesn't sound like you would want to pull the carbs again to change them.
              As much as I'd rather ride than wrench (although I do enjoy the wrenching, as frustrating as it can sometimes be), I'm trusting the originals on this as they seem to be nice and pliable. I may be proven wrong, but if I have to pull the carbs again, so be it. That's part of owning the bike.

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by foghog View Post
                Hi, I also have an 85 550 and had to get it running after 5 or so years sitting. It sounds like your low speed/idle jets are plugged with crud, mine were. Also the larger tube leading to the rear of the bike goes to the smog cannister which may be missing and the smaller one is a drain which will catch gas leaking from the fuel level sending unit and rout it away from the hot engine. Good luck
                Yeah, it's almost certain that something is clogged in the carbs. Got the dip, now I've just gotta make the time to tear down the carbs themselves.

                RE: Tubes (I believe you're answering my question from one of my first posts here regarding lines from the fuel tank, right?): The larger tube goes to a smog canister? We don't have those here in MD. That's a Cali only "feature", right?

                The smaller tube catches gas from the fuel sending unit? Why does that leak?

                Glad to hear that someone else got their 550 up and running. Hope you're enjoyin' it!
                Last edited by Guest; 04-18-2007, 12:09 AM.

                Comment


                  #83
                  My 550 has TWO smog cannisters located in the tail bodywork. Al Gore would be proud.
                  The fuel level sending unit should not leak but if it did it would be onto the top of the engine presenting quite the fire hazard so better safe than sorry.

                  Comment


                    #84
                    the smog control stuff is only on the CALI bikes.

                    From your fuel tank there should be three hoses and two wires. the two wires are just the fuel level sensors/senders. The hose that comes out near them is a vent line. The other two hoses are fuel line and vaccum line.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Thanks for the update foghog. Safer is fine with me!

                      skreemer, here's the run down on lines coming from the fuel tank. As you can see, there's a total of four hoses and 1 electrical (the fuel gauge wires) for a total of 5 items. foghog has indicated that #'s 3 and 4 below are the vent tube (routed to smog canisters in Cali, but open elsewhere) and a fuel overflow tube associated with the fuel sending unit. Do you concur? (Here's a pic for reference. #'s 3 and 4 below are the two lines resting on the frame back bone.)
                      1. Vacuum to petcock
                      2. Fuel to petcock
                      3. Large overflow (?) from forward underneath center point of tank to [no connection, routed like a breather line]
                      4. Unknown smaller line (vacuum ?) from right underneath point of tank to [no connection, routed like a breather line]
                      5. Fuel gauge connectors (electrical)
                      Last edited by Guest; 04-18-2007, 11:34 AM. Reason: add link

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Originally posted by MelodicMetalGod View Post
                        As much as I'd rather ride than wrench (although I do enjoy the wrenching, as frustrating as it can sometimes be), I'm trusting the originals on this as they seem to be nice and pliable. I may be proven wrong, but if I have to pull the carbs again, so be it. That's part of owning the bike.
                        Don't assume they are good...Alot of people recommended I change mine and I didn't. Guess what, they were bad and I had to. For the couple of bucks it costs, it's worth it. You may have to find o-rings that match up ( my dealer said the parts were not avail from Suzuki) but they are out there. My bike only has 15000 mi and sat fer a few years with a carb issue...my o-rings were like hard plastic (PB53 Chevy) did the rebuild on the carbs and I was there when the o-rings were pulled....bike runs sweet now.

                        Comment


                          #87
                          The problem isn't mileage, it's age. Replace those o-rings or you will regret it later. My bike only had 18k miles on it, and when I dropped the o-ring after removing it... it shattered.
                          You'd have to be crazy to be sane in this world -Nero
                          If you love it, let it go. If it comes back....... You probably highsided.
                          1980 GS550E (I swear it's a 550...)
                          1982 GS650E (really, it's a 650)
                          1983 GS550ES (42mpg again)
                          1996 Yamaha WR250 (No, it's not a 4 stroke.)
                          1971 Yamaha LT2 (9 horsepower of FURY.)

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Originally posted by Nerobro View Post
                            The problem isn't mileage, it's age. Replace those o-rings or you will regret it later. My bike only had 18k miles on it, and when I dropped the o-ring after removing it... it shattered.
                            LOL, NO KIDDING, WHO WOULD OF THOUGHT THAT COULD HAPPEN. AND YOU RIGHT TELLING ME TO CHANGE THEM, THX

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Diggin' into the carbs

                              Finally found some time. See the latest pics here . Let me know what the condition of the carbs looks like to you.

                              If you know anything about these carbs or where to get info on them, let me know. I've been trying to get a Factory Service Manual from RepairManualClub.com, but no luck so far due to technical issues on their side.

                              LeeGS550E was kind enough to forward a few cutaways of the carbs to me. Other than that, I'm using the Clymers book and using what I can from the carb docs in the "garage" here on TheGSRescources.
                              Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2007, 08:13 PM. Reason: typo

                              Comment


                                #90
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                                the knob bottom slightly off center is the idle adjust.... set the air/fuel mix to where everything runs right and use the idle adjust to fine tune it.

                                if you've cleaned everything and it won't idle clean the choke circuit... don't forget the tubes bottom center in this picture:
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                                also a word of warning... the clymers is more suited to the older bikes and they mix the information in them sometimes... I actually pitched my clymers and use the Haynes for everything...
                                Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2007, 08:25 PM.

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