Custom Painting Question(s)

[Schweisshund]

Perhaps there is a gas resistant clear coat? Anyone know of one? I did see the post about applying rustoleum with foam rollers - amazing photos. Does Rustoleum make a clear coat?

[Nessism]

I receintly polished and cleared the top caps on my carbs. Used VHT header paint (clear) and baked it to harden. First time gas hit the carbs, during sync using a remote tank, the paint crinkled a little. Maybe it needed more time to gain chemical resistance but I just don't trust any rattle can paint to be truely chemical resistant.

[Schweisshund]

Prestigious Painter Award "House of Kolor" December 2007 - Joe Pyro Luedtke

1998 Suzuki GSXR 750

[Schweisshund]

I want to learn how to do that :-D If I do, my life will be a little more complete \\/

[txironhead]

If you could learn to do that, you could ride any bike you wanted. That is a sweet paint job. No rattle can there.

I never bother clearcoating bare aluminum. Some good paste metal polish and a little wax every six months or so and I'm good to ride.

Now, for engine cases and such that are a complete pain in the posterior to keep spotless, I prefer beadblasting followed up by Dupli-Color Engine Enamel or Exhaust Enamel (with Ceramic!\\/) in black or aluminum.

I've been meaning to give that Flitz Ball a try, see if it lives up to the hype.

[Schweisshund]

TXironhead - I am right smack in the middle of "learning" about how scratch glaze works. I took one cover off my honda and could see all the mistakes I made on prepping that from my first attempt at painting. This time around, I have learned to be a bit more patient (I hope). I am using a bondo product and it sands down quite well (first time using it and yes I applied it too thick and it cracked). After much sanding, I got it smooth as glass.

I am now working on the Suzuki plastic. I am using 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper and am wetsanding these parts. After the attempt on the Honda plastic cover, I now now "apply in thin coats" means exactly that. :-D

Hopefully, tmw I will be satisified with the texture of the plastic and start the next step in the preparation for paint (primer). I picked up a product called "BullDog Adhesion Promoter - makes paint stick to all automotive surfaces". I also got Dupli-Color sandable primer in a spray can. I figure if its sandable and comes out in chunks, it can just be sanded down to the right texture.

[txironhead]

It won't come out in chunks, it's just a thicker primer. Make sure you spray it in thin coats, too, heavy coats have a tendency to build up (high spots) and sag (results in loud cursing).

If you want to be absolutely sure everything's smooth, spray a layer of red primer before you spray the sandable, if you strike red while sanding you've got a high spot. Alternately, you can sand almost all of the sandable primer off with a block sander and any remaining grey would be low spots. Sandable primer will fill in very fine scratches and very shallow low spots. You are using a block sander on the flat surfaces, right?

Never tried the adhesion promoter, except for Ospho on bare metal. Ospho is great stuff, especially if you're stripping/grinding/sanding a bare metal part now and won't get around to priming/painting immediately. It'll destroy and prevent surface rust, unfortunately it's not strong enough to etch something like a gas tank.

I learned the hard way about thick bodywork cracking. If you really have to do bodywork (not just scratch glazing), I'd recommend Dynaglass over Bondo brand. It's less prone to shrinking, cracking, etc. and it cures harder. It's available at O'Reilly's. For really large dents, cracks, etc. learn to use fiberglass mat or woven cloth to strengthen the epoxy. I knew a guy that was so good with Dynaglass and fiberglass that he put Testarossa panels on his Magna. Hand-formed, and did it look cool!

[renobruce]

Now, for engine cases and such that are a complete pain in the posterior to keep spotless, I prefer beadblasting followed up by Dupli-Color Engine Enamel or Exhaust Enamel (with Ceramic!\\/) in black or aluminum.

How does the Duplicolor hold up? I'm doing a GS1000 motor in the same stuff.

[Schweisshund]

How does the Duplicolor hold up? I'm doing a GS1000 motor in the same stuff.

All I can say is ....wow. I really hope it holds up or your gonna get p*ssed:-D That is a beauty and I am envious of that job. When I was "experimenting" with metallic chrome (dupli-color 1000* heat resistant with ceramic) I noticed it dulled to a smoke gray 8-[ However, I did not have the patience at the time to let it completely cure. I am hoping I make enough mistakes to where I get a routine of doing things right :-D if that makes any sense.

I am wondering what the chances are of getting Joe Pyro Luedtke to join the GSR since his bike is a 1998 Suzuki GSXR 750. Anyone have any ideas how to do that? I am sure every GSer could benefit from any info he could impart to us lesser mortals (lol).

[Schweisshund]

I have another newbie question

Now, for engine cases and such that are a complete pain in the posterior to keep spotless, I prefer beadblasting followed up by Dupli-Color Engine Enamel or Exhaust Enamel (with Ceramic!\\/) in black or aluminum.

I've been meaning to give that Flitz Ball a try, see if it lives up to the hype.

what is beadblasting?

[renobruce]

All I can say is ....wow. I really hope it holds up or your gonna get p*ssed:-D That is a beauty and I am envious of that job. When I was "experimenting" with metallic chrome (dupli-color 1000* heat resistant with ceramic) I noticed it dulled to a smoke gray 8-[ However, I did not have the patience at the time to let it completely cure. I am hoping I make enough mistakes to where I get a routine of doing things right :-D if that makes any sense.

Thanks. Hopefully it will hold up. All the pieces were primed and cured in an oven. I just have the jugs left to do, and she's ready for assembly!

[renobruce]

what is beadblasting?

It's like sandblasting except you use a plastic media, which is less aggressive and easier to clean up.

[txironhead]

Actually, that's considered plastic media blasting. The beadblasting that I'm familiar with is used with small glass pellets. There's also baking soda, walnut shell and other medias.

The Dupli-Color engine paint I've used has all worked well. The curing has to be done low temp with gradually increasing heat. Harsh chemicals (think carb cleaner for prolonged periods) will damage the finish but it's easy to touch it up. I've never had any success with "chrome" paints. What you get is a concentration of glitter, which doesn't spray as easily or hold up as well. The aluminum colors and blacks hold up very well, although I prefer using semi-gloss over gloss for engines. I don't, ironically, use the exhaust paint on exhaust, it just doesn't hold up. I've heard the POR-15 is fantastic for header pipes and exhaust, if I get a chance to use it I'll post my results.

Normally when the gloss fades on a paint the curing was done too quickly or the heat was too great. If I could, I'd have a dedicated curing oven for mechanical parts. You want to start out slow, around 160 degrees, and gradually increase the temp to the optimal cure temp. If you go straight to 600+ it won't work, plus you stand a good chance of the fumes concentrating and that ain't good.

Honestly, if I had the money and equipment, I'd probably use a spray gun and POR-15 products on the engine and exhaust. But for the money you just can't beat the Dupli-Color products. I rode the hell out of my Shadow 700 after painting the engine, frame and body with Dupli-Color. No garage, carport or cover, I lived in a crappy apartment at the time. Washed it once a month, waxed it every six, and she still looked great when I sold her over a year later. I even painted the rims with the brushed aluminum paint. I have got to get my scanner fixed so I can post a pic.

I just found another Shadow, an '83 VT750, just like my old '85 700. It's only $100, but it's already got one foot in the grave. I had to pass it up. It would cost over a grand to get the thing roadworthy, and months of hardcore restoration. And that's at Ebay prices. It really hurt to pass that one up. Whoever treated such a fantastic bike that way does not appreciate a loyal steed.

[Schweisshund]

Ok Last night I finished scratch glazing and priming my sidecovers. Today, dear old dad, whom is in his mid 60's, ran a home construction company to support my family for over 40 years, is coming out to give me a few pointers. He also owned a body shop when I was 4 years old and used to paint cars old skool. If I think anything needs to be discussed after my dad gives me pointers, I will post on this thread.

[Schweisshund]

Campbell Hausfeld 34 peice gravity feed gun under $60

Ok - here is what I did today. I had luch with my dad then we went to Wal-Mart. I showed him the "House of Kolor" paints I had mentioned in earlier posts and that they are sold in 1 oz. containers for $4.00 (not $3.00 as previously mentioned). He then told me the sprayer I had would not be sufficient to use such paint and we looked at the the plastic airbrush kit that these bottles were made for. It was $20.00 and the compressor for it was $65.00 and the canned compressed air per bottle was $20.00. I was like sheesh! what con artists and almost decided to just use quart cans of paint from autozone when we went to the compressor section of wal-mart to get a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer fitting for the hose. That is when I spotted a 34 peice gravity feed spray gun kit. It came with everything and included a gravity feed spray gun as well as a gravity feed touch up spray gun.

The touch up spray gun has a smaller bottle that was actually perfect for the "House of Kolor" 1 oz. increments of paint I wanted to use. I got this kit for $58.00 (and even my dad said that was an excellent deal - as there was a seperate campbell hausfeld gravity sprayer by itself selling for $54.00).

He also told me a pearl today about when he used to own his body shop. He had custom painted an antique cadillac in his paint shop and had just applied the final coat of clear (12 coats) when an old man just walked carelessly through the paint shop (visiting customer) and much too close to the drying cadillac. The painters started shouting "Hey fella stay away from that car, its drying from wet paint" to which this old, clueless guy responded "That's ok, I got on old clothes".