82-83 GS1100 Top End Oiler Install

[robertob]

This is what the manual says. I drew my drawing similar to from the pickup to the Main Gallery




Either the bypass is for something else and the banjo connection input/outputs are not shown or it is wrong. As long as the oil cooler feeds the filter all is well. I will recheck the inside of the oil filter cavity but I think option #3 is how it is. The pump is sacrificial as it only benefits from the sump pickup screen.

Posplayr

OK - my manual has the same diagram. The "bypass" is the spring and stuff that allows oil to go around the filter if it gets too full (becomes too restrictive). The banjo bolts and restrictor are not in that diagram.

[posplayr]

OK that now makes sense

Option #1 is then the correct one except the restrictor is immediately in parallel to the filter.

Posplayr

[robertob]

I think so: Pump > cooler > filter

[Nessism]

Sorry to dig this thread up but have a question about plumbing an oil cooler...

The oil pressure sensor adapter plate on my '82 850 has an un-tapped fitting on the back side of the plate. It would be easy to drill/tap this hole and screw in a take off fitting to feed oil into an oil cooler. I'm guessing that the return could go into the oil filter cover plate (similar to Rob's bike).

What I'd really like to do though is come up with some sort of fitting that could be screwed into the oil filter adapter plate, through the pressure sensor hole, to grab the oil straight from the oil galley line and send full flow over to a cooler. In that case I'm thinking the angled fitting on the adapter plate could be used for the oil return.

The oil pressure fitting seems to be threaded 20M x 1.5 - not a common thread size. Does anyone have a suggestion where I could get a fitting of some sort that would allow me to plumb this mess? Or maybe I'm just spinning my wheels?

[robertob]

Earl's might have something - I think there are some VW or Audi fuel lines with a similar fitting but I could be wrong.

If you have a lathe you could always turn a 20x1.5 ring and then thread it internally for NPT, but I think you're making it more complicated than it has to be. One problem with that idea is that the adapter would have to be long enough to go down and seal against the oil inlet that the light switch seats on in order to use the boss for a return.

Personally I'd just tap that boss for 1/8 NPT and set it up like mine is. OR, if you really want 100% of the oil to go through the cooler buy the adapter plate.

I've even got an old Lockhart cooler if you need one, but you'll have to come up with your own brackets.

[posplayr]

Actually that sounds like a workable idea

Get/make a piece of solid brass rod that you can cut threads on the OD to match the 20 x 1.5 thread. Then center drill that threaded rod to put in a fitting to match the return line into the undrilled casting.

As Roberto mentioned the threaded rod need to be long enough to go down and seal against the inner surface of the casing. A nice little groove in the ed of the pipe for an o-ring would work perfect.

You will now have captured the entire flow from the pump>filter and can route it to your cooler. Return back to the plate. The only issue is the max size that the casting will support; this is your total oil flow not just an top end oiler like I'm doing.

Posplayr

[Nessism]

Spent some time this afternoon looking at different options and making my own adapter seems to be the best option. Simple threaded rod, with jamb nut so the height can be adjusted, looks to be the ticket. Will post details after talking to my machine shop buddy.

[posplayr]

I was thinking for of a custom fit pipe thread

If you are going to make it adjustable with a lock nut you might want to add an o-ring with a small grove on the outside to capture the o-ring underneath the lock nut. This is how the APE mechanical cam tensioner works. I have an old one which doesn't show it as well, but on the new one I had , I think there is a definite grove to hold the o-ring under the lock nut.

As I think about it , an o-ring is probably mandatory if you are not using tapered pipe thread. There is even more pressure at the plate than what the tensioner sees.

Cutting the threaded pipe to a measured length (even inserting from below) and an end o-ring (or not) would aleviate the issue of the lock nut and any possible leaking or an external o-ring.
On the other hand there is already an o-ring under the entire cover

Posplayr

Posplayr

[Nessism]

Still chewing on the design...

Earls sells a 20mm x 1.5 adaptor fitting with AN -10 threaded fitting on the other end. The fitting is not long enough to reach down to the oil galley port but I could easily fashion an extension cap that would be captured between the adapter and the galley port. This set up with give me a male AN -10 fitting coming out of the oil pressure sensor cover plate.

I'd like to retain the oil pressure switch function but the stock Suzuki switch is a pig - as in huge. Anyone have a suggestion for a smaller switch I could use? Thinking about a T fitting on top the AN -10 with the sensor on one end and the cooler feed line off the other side.

Also, Earl's sells a ton of different coolers. Any one have a suggestion on how big a cooler to use? Not racing around just trying to protect the engine in stop and go city riding in the dead of summer. http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...pt=Oil!_Cooler

[posplayr]

Well One thing I had considered for Idiot light

On the 80-81 GS750's 16V, there is no cover at all on the back of the motor. That is part of why I was so surprised to see your cover on an 850 8V engine no less.

Anyway the 750's have the idiot light smack dead center on the oil filter cover (maybe you knew that already). I dont know if it is the same electrically, but it might just work to swap covers and sensor with an extension to the single wire to the front of the engine. I have the parts that I might be able to test for you if interested (sometime this weekend)
Altenatively if the sensor woudl work, you might go just mount it where Renobruce puts his oilpressure gauges (with the proper fitting of course).

Posplayr

[robertob]

-10 is freakin' massive! It's like 5/8" ID, or so. You only need 3/8" or -6.

most bike coolers are like 8x4 inches.

[posplayr]

robertob

It is the size of the oil sensor switch that is so massive 20 x 1.5; gotta fill that hole.

Posplayr

[Nessism]

-10 is freakin' massive! It's like 5/8" ID, or so. You only need 3/8" or -6.

most bike coolers are like 8x4 inches.

Yup, pretty large hole. Going to have to figure out a reducer scheme of some sort. 8x4 sounds about right. They have a tons of different sizes but I'll shoot for about 32 sq.in.

Thanks for the info.

[isleoman]

Posplayr,

Do you happen to know the torque for bolts that mount the top end oilers to the cylinder head? I saw someone selling wards or vortex unit on Ebay and they were suggesting 80-100 ft. lbs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOP-END-OILER-Suzuki-GS1100-1150-Dragbike-Drag-Bike_W0QQitemZ260254559240QQihZ016QQcategoryZ35595QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That seems like way too much for an aluminum bolt. I bought mine on ebay and didn't get instructions with mine

[rapidray]

Posplayr,

Do you happen to know the torque for bolts that mount the top end oilers to the cylinder head? I saw someone selling wards or vortex unit on Ebay and they were suggesting 80-100 ft. lbs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOP-END-OILER-Suzuki-GS1100-1150-Dragbike-Drag-Bike_W0QQitemZ260254559240QQihZ016QQcategoryZ35595QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That seems like way too much for an aluminum bolt. I bought mine on ebay and didn't get instructions with mine

You only tighten them enough to keep them from leaking! You WILL snap them off if you try to make them that tight. That number in INCH pounds is about right. All the ones on my bikes I try to only make tight enough not to leak or come loose. Ray.