How to avoid Starter Clutch Disaster Modification

[Fjbj40]

I used option 2 with my 1085 Yosh in my 1000. Very simple mod with the results that are required. Bike starts smoothly every time, whereas before it was a constant kickback.

I also run a 8 cell ballistic lithium battery, which is SUPPOSED to be adequate cranking power, but is not with the increased compression ratio I guess. However the mod makes starting possible with the inadequate cranking amps with the 8 cell.

[John Kat]

In the end, I went with modification #2.
The way I did it consisted in simply switching the White/Orange leads at the plug level coming out of the right switch assy.
The W/O lead with an orange plastic band brings the switched +12V to the "engine stop" switch before going to the "starter switch".
By switching the leads as described the W/O lead with the orange plastic band now feeds directly the "starter switch" and the "engine stop" switch.
I don't know if this will work on US models?

[posplayr]

In the end, I went with modification #2.
The way I did it consisted in simply switching the White/Orange leads at the plug level coming out of the right switch assy.
The W/O lead with an orange plastic band brings the switched +12V to the "engine stop" switch before going to the "starter switch".
By switching the leads as described the W/O lead with the orange plastic band now feeds directly the "starter switch" and the "engine stop" switch.
I don't know if this will work on US models?

In most cases you should be able to do everything in the right hand switch. Here is a picture of a jumper I made in on a 1980 GS750E.

[Eli69]

option #2.

after doing this to two starter clutches:





i happened across this thread. i finally got around to doing option 2 from the first post. a de-solder, a snip, a strip and a couple quick solders. i didn't even have to take the switches out. starting is smooth as silk now.

[posplayr]

option #2.

after doing this to two starter clutches:

Ouch; what bike and how is it charging? If the bike cranks over slow then kick back is much more likely. Headlamp cutout helps as well.

[Eli69]

Ouch; what bike and how is it charging? If the bike cranks over slow then kick back is much more likely. Headlamp cutout helps as well.

78 skunk. charges fine. i advanced the timing a bit beyond spec so that's why it tends to kick back.

[Fjbj40]

I was using option 2 for a summer. I run a 8 cell ballistic battery, inadequate cca working against 10.5:1 compression ratio.

It worked pretty good, however I was still getting the occasional clang clang.

So I did what tfb did and made the lever mod, end of problem totally, even with the inadequate battery.

I am sure with a better battery though the option 2 works perfectly fine.

[posplayr]

I was using option 2 for a summer. I run a 8 cell ballistic battery, inadequate cca working against 10.5:1 compression ratio.

It worked pretty good, however I was still getting the occasional clang clang.

So I did what tfb did and made the lever mod, end of problem totally, even with the inadequate battery.

I am sure with a better battery though the option 2 works perfectly fine.

What is the "lever mod"?

[Fjbj40]

What is the "lever mod"?

http://www.theflyingbanana.com/starterclutch.htm this one, he has a post in this thread, post#58

[posplayr]

Dyna2000_AntiKickback.jpg

http://www.theflyingbanana.com/starterclutch.htm this one, he has a post in this thread, post#58

1. I carefully elongated the slots in the base plate to allow for retarding the timing by about 5 degrees;

See the figure above of the Dyna 2000 advance curves with the 80-83 GS1100E OEM timing overlaid.

The Dyna 2000 retards the timing by 10 degrees at low RPM down which is 5 deg BTDC.

This would correspond closely to the "lever mod" described by the Flying Banana on his website. In his description he retards by about 5 degrees which for a stock setting would be 12-5=7 deg BTDC.

http://www.theflyingbanana.com/starterclutch.htm
The IGN retard approach to anti-kickback seems to be very effective. Considering the cost of the Dyna 2000, it is nice to find something that is practical in day today use rather than just RACE options. If you have the Dyna 2000, there is no need to do the lever mod.


Anybody with a Dyna 2000 want to comment on how well it works with respect to Anti-kick back?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?235807-Dimensionally-smaller-battery-need-advice-on-cold-cranking-amp-requirements&p=2234387#post2234387

[John Kat]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]42494[/ATTACH]





See the figure above of the Dyna 2000 advance curves with the 80-83 GS1100E OEM timing overlaid.

The Dyna 2000 retards the timing by 10 degrees at low RPM down which is 5 deg BTDC.

This would correspond closely to the "lever mod" described by the Flying Banana on his website. In his description he retards by about 5 degrees which for a stock setting would be 12-5=7 deg BTDC.

http://www.theflyingbanana.com/starterclutch.htm
The IGN retard approach to anti-kickback seems to be very effective. Considering the cost of the Dyna 2000, it is nice to find something that is practical in day today use rather than just RACE options. If you have the Dyna 2000, there is no need to do the lever mod.


Anybody with a Dyna 2000 want to comment on how well it works with respect to Anti-kick back?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...87#post2234387

This would definitely be a better solution as even with the starter modification option, I still get a kick back from time to time.

[Joe H]

I have been using the 2000 for a long time and it did help a lot. When I first got the 2000 iggy I was surprised at how easily the engine turned over and started compared to the stock ignition.
I was a bit shocked by my last go around with my starter clutch because after the Dyna 2000 the problem of kick back disappeared UNTILL I installed the 1260 pistons. It slowly started to return and finally got so bad this summer I had to dig in and fix it again.
In defense of the Dyna 2000 I know the starter clutch would have blown apart MUCH sooner without it, when I took it apart it was a mess!!!
Did some work replaced some parts had some welding done and back to NO problems.
It starts hot or cold no kick back with the first touch of the starter button!
And everyone should already know to keep the battery fully charged, weak battery will always give the starter clutch problems at least in my experience.